Best tool for cutting down the grain for 2" thick hardwood

[Watson1991]

Hi

Hope your all ok?

I'm a tree surgeon based in Sheffield. I started milling up the trees id felled about 3 years ago. The planks are vary in size but have a rough thickness of 2"/2.5". All the timber is hardwood. oak, beech...

I've been looking a plunge saws to straighten the edges up but most of them only have a cutting depth of 55mm which would be on the limit really and I wouldn't want to put strain on the machine. Would you recommend using a plunge saw or a opt for a circular saw with a deeper cutting depth ? or even a different method completely. Ive got a budget of £400.

Any advice would be great

Thanks

Matt

 

[skipdiver]

For that budget, a bandsaw would be my choice, unless you want to take the machine to the wood and not the wood to the machine.

Welcome, by the way.

 

[petermillard]

+1 on the welcome. Festool TS75 would do the job, but not within budget. Screwfix have an Erbauer that claims 67mm depth of cut that might just about do the job, assuming that cut-depth includes the guiderail...

HTH, Pete

 

[Woodmonkey]

Plunge saws are excellent for removing the waney edge from boards, you will need to put a ripping blade on though. The festool ts75 will cut 3", might be a bit out of your price range. You won't regret it though...

Edit: Pete beat me to it

 

[custard]

Welcome, a practising tree surgeon is always a good addition to the forum.

Regarding straightening the edges. I'm a full time furniture maker and I pay a premium for waney edged boards, cut through and through, and stacked back into the original boule or flitch. That way I can be assured that they all come from the same tree so will deliver a good colour match, I can pick the cut that's best for the furniture component (quarter sawn for stability, rift sawn for both leg faces to look the same, flat sawn for dramatic grain, etc), and there's a fighting chance that I might use a full waney edged slab for some Nakashima inspired creation like this,

I guess what I'm saying is don't trim the wane unless and until you're dead sure, because it's a right faff to glue it back on!

 

[Watson1991]

Thanks for all the replies ! You've all been a massive help. I've been looking at the festool plunge saws. Like you say it's worth the extra if it does the job ! I'll have to sweet talk my Partner into treating me to the extra money needed for Christmas

Thanks custard. That's how I've been stacking my planks. As a whole log milled through and through and stickered then rachet strapped together. To be honest with you I've not really thought about using the boards for furniture making. it's definitely something to think about thanks !

 

[Lons]

I guess what I'm saying is don't trim the wane unless and until you're dead sure, because it's a right faff to glue it back on!

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[skipdiver]

You could sell some to custard and have a better budget for a new saw. :lol:

 

[deema]

I personally would buy a second hand Wadkin, Sedgwick, Cooklsey, Robinson, Multico or Dominion table saw. Very useful for everything you are likely to make with such fine air dried English timbers......I'm very very envious!

To remove a waney edge I tack a straight piece of timber on top of the piece I'm cutting which then rides against the fence.

The reason I would go for a table saw is that there is likely to be stresses in the timber that will cause the kerf to close up behind the riving knife. I wouldn't want to be using a powered hand saw for this type of application.

 

[Beau]

Do you need a plunge saw? For ripping down planks when something like this would work just fine http://www.axminster.co.uk/makita-5903r ... aw-ax22635
Not got this one but have a Makita circular saw and it's a no nonsense workhorse. As said get a rip blade

 

[skipdiver]

I personally would buy a second hand Wadkin, Sedgwick, Cooklsey, Robinson, Multico or Dominion table saw. Very useful for everything you are likely to make with such fine air dried English timbers......I'm very very envious!

To remove a waney edge I tack a straight piece of timber on top of the piece I'm cutting which then rides against the fence.

The reason I would go for a table saw is that there is likely to be stresses in the timber that will cause the kerf to close up behind the riving knife. I wouldn't want to be using a powered hand saw for this type of application.

I tend to agree. I have a very large, very powerful and heavy Makita 110v circular saw. It has an attached riving knife but a kick back would be very scary with such a big and powerful beast. I only used it for trimming big joists to length.

 

[tomlt]

I have much the same issue, lots of 2-4" timber that needs edging. I've got a makita plunge saw, ok to 2" with a rip blade, benefit is nice straight cuts to 3m, not so good for anything thicker, you can flip over but i find realignment a pain. I bought a Makita SR2600 circular saw which cuts to 98mm, it's a beast but can do a decent job if you use a decent guide and rip blade, sadly the new equivalent is 600quid, mine cost me 50 on eBay plus a bit of time fixing it up. Recently I've been and bought a wadkin 20" ripsaw, it will cut 7" and im just in the process of wiring in a 3 phase converter.

Ive been consideeing the TS75, but actually found the hk85 can be used on all the festool rails (unlike the ts) has a bigger motor, 10mm extra cut depth and is a bit cheaper. The cheaper alternative is the scheppach pl75, like a budget ts75, on ebay for about 250quid with rails.

Sent from my SM-G800F using Tapatalk

 

[MikeJhn]

Personally I would use a table saw, the latest trend is for plunge track saw's and they have their place, but to rip down large piece's of timber to manageable size's give me a table saw every time.

Mike

 

[Woodmonkey]

Each to their own, but trying to manhandle a large and very heavy 2-3 inch thick slab of oak over a table saw is not my idea of fun.

 

[skipdiver]

I have much the same issue, lots of 2-4" timber that needs edging. I've got a makita plunge saw, ok to 2" with a rip blade, benefit is nice straight cuts to 3m, not so good for anything thicker, you can flip over but i find realignment a pain. I bought a Makita SR2600 circular saw which cuts to 98mm, it's a beast but can do a decent job if you use a decent guide and rip blade, sadly the new equivalent is 600quid, mine cost me 50 on eBay plus a bit of time fixing it up. Recently I've been and bought a wadkin 20" ripsaw, it will cut 7" and im just in the process of wiring in a 3 phase converter.

Ive been consideeing the TS75, but actually found the hk85 can be used on all the festool rails (unlike the ts) has a bigger motor, 10mm extra cut depth and is a bit cheaper. The cheaper alternative is the scheppach pl75, like a budget ts75, on ebay for about 250quid with rails.

Sent from my SM-G800F using Tapatalk

£600 you say? Mine is the older version of that one. I don't use it any more, perhaps i ought to sell it if they are that sort of price new. I have a big Bosch one as well that doesn't get any use either.

 

[MikeJhn]

Each to their own, but trying to manhandle a large and very heavy 2-3 inch thick slab of oak over a table saw is not my idea of fun.

Nobody told me this was supposed to be fun. :lol:

I find with the infeed and outfeed tables at the same height its perfectly manageable and very accurate, but as you say each to his own.

Mike

 

[Armagh]

I use the Makita recommended above, an 8' straight edge and two clamps. It's not expensive and more functional that a dedicated plunge saw. I wouldn't think a Bandsaw is a great suggestion since you want to produce a straight edge.

 

[acewoodturner]

I mill my own slabs as well with an Alaskan mill and kiln dry it in my own kiln in the workshop. To rip the waney edge of boards I use a steel straight edge and a Dewalt hand held circular saw which can do up to 86mm depth of cut. For anything thicker than this you can get the Alaskan edging jig for a small chainsaw which is really for beams etc but does fin for edging. There is no way you will be able to safely or accurately cut a waney edge on a 4" plank on a table saw. Just lifting it up to do the job will be impossible on your own. Edging my slabs is a regular occurrence for me and the method I use is the quickest and safest. P.s. I still have all my own fingers!

 

[Nelsun]

It's a minor point but if you do go the track saw route it's worth keeping in mind that the saw, by running on a track, has the maximum cutting depth reduced by about 5mm i.e. the TS55 has a max cut of 55mm but only 50mm when on a track.

 

[Watson1991]

Thanks people ! You've all been great. Can't believe how many people have replied ! Really appreciate it ! I think I'm going to go for a circular saw with a straight edge like a few of you have suggested.