Best Practice and advice for making up small picture frames

[badger99]

Hi all,

I’m an artist that is looking to start making my own frames for my photos. I’m mostly going to be framing my own art, and some printing in my collection to go around the house. I want to try to achieve a high-quality finish.

I’m aiming to make simple slim frames with a moulding that’s 10mm wide by 33mm deep at around A4 size. Would people recommend getting Beech or Oak with such a small size, am I right in thinking the oak would be stronger?

I have a chop/mitre saw and some basic equipment. But nothing specialist at present.

I have done some research and have seen lots of different ways of making up frames. My question is based on making up small frames. What experiences/suggestions do people have for gluing up? I’m currently considering using Titebond 3 (because I already have it) to glue the mitres. As the framing is so thin I am also considering using tape to hold the frame in place while it dries. Would this be a good route forward, or is there another method I should consider? Would it then be sensible to pin the frame after the glue has dried? I have a nail gun and could put 15mm pins in to secure the frame.

I will probably get the Bessey band clamp for larger moulding but read that if too much pressure is applied it tends to bow the frame, particularly with small moulding.

I’m considering getting the Fletcher Framemaster Gun to drive some points in. Does anyone have experience of this?



Any input would be most appreciated

 

[craigs]

i bought the charnwood point gun recently, works perfectly well and only about £35 i think. take a look at the veritas frame clamp, i find it much better than the bessey for small frames.

you can easily mitre the corners and just glue them up, i doubt it will require rhino strength for something soo small

 

[Doug B]

I find a shop made 45 degree shooting board is the best thing for really accurate tight mitres. Most timbers will be strong enough for small frames & if you want to reinforce your mitres a simple saw cut filled with a wooden spline will not only add strength but also interest

 

[ScaredyCat]

I've always fancied one of those manual mitre guillotine cutters..

 

[paulrbarnard]

I make my own frames. Mostly I use framing sticks that I buy from framing supplies uk. I have made my own mouldings as well using a Stanley 55. You can use just about any wood you like. The only difference being the difficulty of working it and the look you want to achieve.
Making the frames is very simple. I use a backsaw to cut the sticks at 45 degrees using a very simple bench hook mitre block

Then a shooting board to make sure they are spot on.

Glue up with a band clamp then hammer in framing nails (the 90 degree thingies).

I have a mat cutter that deals with the glazing, backing, foam board and the mat.

Here is the ones I made up last week.

 

[paulrbarnard]

i bought the charnwood point gun recently, works perfectly well and only about £35 i think. take a look at the veritas frame clamp, i find it much better than the bessey for small frames.

you can easily mitre the corners and just glue them up, i doubt it will require rhino strength for something soo small

That's the same point gun I use. Works great. I like the look of that frame clamp.

 

[Trextr7monkey]

If you are planning a lot then a mitre trimmer will make life very simple- Morso treadle operated or an orteguil bench top model. Depends which you can find at the right price.
If lots of framesare the same size get some plastic blocks or even mdf covered in sticky back plastic and assemble frame round them and clamp up and pin with whatever you’ve got

 

[billw]

Veritas Frame Clamp

 

[thetyreman]

the bessey band clamps are great, I have never had problems with it bowing frames, what size frames do you plan on making?

 

[TheTiddles]

For small frames the veritas clamp is superb. You could make your own with threaded rod and some wing nuts, it will be as good once tightened but not as easy to use.

I wouldn’t worry about strength of the wood, the joint is the weakest part by a factor of a few hundred

A tab driver gun is a good investment to hold the backer in and don’t forget the tape too

Aidan

 

[Sean Hellman]

Mitre trimmer is essential. You need a smooth accurate cut surface on the joints. I then use a band to hold everything in place and hammer in V nails across the mitre joint. I have made hundreds this way.

 

[TRITON]

I've always fancied one of those manual mitre guillotine cutters..

Ive the axminster one and must say its been a huge help.
Did some door renovation and a large flat, needed 300m of moulding, all the be mitered. I was able to rough cut to length most of the lengths needed then just back and forth to the trimmer.

@opener What about a V nailer/underpinner ?.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Charnwoo...562767?hash=item366e49c6cf:g:qDsAAOSwLYdfrTSiBut I think you can get one thats used with a hammer, like a punch. Im sure Axminster did one -runs off to look at old Axminster catalogs...
Yup, Axminster Vee nail insertion tool - £15 in 2015.

 

[Freddyjersey2016]

Take a look at diyframing based on the Cressex Estate in High Wycombe All About Framing - they sell a range of equipment designed for those (like me) who do some framing but not trying to make a living at it.
I suggest you look at these, all of which I have acquired over time (and I dont have a guillotine and no intention to buy one)
LOGAN STUDIO JOINER to insert the V nails, the frame clamp will hold the moulding while you insert the V nails
NOBEX PROMASTER FRAMING KIT - a Nobex Proman 110 saw with a measuring gadget which makes cutting moulding to the right length accurately easy
LOGAN 350-1 COMPACT ELITE MOUNT CUTTER - makes cutting mats accurately easy- I have managed to cut multiple window mounts with it succesfully
They also sell a range of tapes, mount board, mouldings with low minimum quantities etc

Also take a look at the fact sheets on this page - Support Library - lots of good free advice there

 

[weirdbeardmt]

Interesting that using an actual mitre saw hasn't been recommended once... are they just not accurate enough?

 

[paulrbarnard]

Interesting that using an actual mitre saw hasn't been recommended once... are they just not accurate enough?

not really and the saw leaves a rough surface.

I use a shooting board and plane to get mine exact. The more “professional” approach is a mitre trimmer.

 

[TheTiddles]

A mitre saw is a a good start, but not a finish, in which case you could bandsaw it, or any other which way

Aidan

 

[recipio]

Professional framers don't glue the joint. PVA glue leaves a minute but perceptible glue line. The trick is to use a mitre trimmer for the joints and then an underpinner to join them. Hammering nails from the side is long outdated with the tools now available.

 

[weirdbeardmt]

something else for the shopping list then.

 

[Arnold9801]

This was me a few years back and started to keep an eye out for a Morso guillotine. It took a while to find one at a really good price, but omg, what a difference.
I plodded on then with using my nail gun for fixing but was “on the prowl” for an under pinner at a very good price. I eventually bought one last year and it’s amazing.
There are plenty of them about, but when you have a tight budget it becomes more difficult to find one.

 

[Droogs]

If you feel really adventurous then for deep frames you could try a "hidden dovetail mitre" as used in drawer fronts or a Chinese "Keyed hidden mortice with mitre". Basically a 45 deg tenon but with a step so the tenon cannot be seen from the side, with a drawbore dowel. Once made the frame will never move apart