Best 'old' plane for finishing

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ByronBlack

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Ok, now that i'm back in the swing of things and I have a large mountain of jobs piling up for the new house. I'm in the market to replace my plane collection which I sold. I have an old broken No.4 and my ickle LN 102 Left.

What i'm after is an old record or stanley plane that will give me a really nice 'finish' on hardwood drawfronts and narrow pieces (2 to 3 inches). Ideally, I don't want to spend no more than about £30

What do y'all recommend?
 
Hi Byron,

I would take a little time and find a vintage Record or Stanley #3 and put a Hock/Samurai/whatever thicker blade in it.

Failing that, a decent vintage wood smoother with a nice thick blade in it.

Perhaps a forum member would have one they would consider selling or ???

Take care, Mike
 
If you aren't afraid to try a woodie, those Hong Kong/Taiwanese style ones seem to be rather good value, fwiw. The HK are pitched around 60° mind you; not sure about the Taiwanese ones but I wouldn't take Rutlands' word on the website without liberal salt.

Cheers, Alf
 
Yep, them's the ones. I bought one of the tiny Hong Kong smoothers, which I may say is excellent in planing the flats on octagonal chisel handles in unruly exotics but heavy going if you don't need that extreme pitch. The Taiwanese are evidentally a bit different (like maybe they really are pitched at 45°!), but I can't see any reason why they wouldn't be just as effective if the workmanship's as good. Oh, and they're not A2 either, but HSS according to the packaging.

Cheers, Alf
 
I certainly like the look of them, and excellently priced - would a hock blade fit the small smoother? I can't see any dimensions for the blade etc..

Thanks again for the info - I would have never thought of looking at Rutlands :)
 
ByronBlack":2bjrr9dt said:
Thanks again for the info - I would have never thought of looking at Rutlands :)
Well I wouldn't encourage it... 8-[ :lol:

I dunno; a Hock blade might fit, but I don't think there's really any need. The HSS is fine and dandy, takes a good edge and so forth. Emailing Rutlands for info like angle and width does work, btw - they just won't update the damn site for some reason. ](*,)

Cheers, Alf
 
Both Lyn Mangimeli and Brent Beach gave the Mujingfang HSS blades high marks. I doubt a Hock blade would an improvment if you could get one to fit and you would spend as much as the plane cost.
 
Roger, ALF

Cheers for the recomendations on the HSS blade, I think i'll have to get over my irrational fear of Rutlands and place an order. I do fancy one of the woodies compared to an old stanley - feels a little more 'traditional'
 
Ack, thank you, Roger. I persistently forget both of those ringing endorsements. #-o

Byron, we'll get out the prayer mats for you - no fear of ordering from Rutlands is, alas, irrational. :(

Cheers, Alf
 
Byron

I've used Mujingfang planes for a few years. The one below is bedded at 45 degrees and is one of my favourite planes when working soft wood, like the pine in the picture. The HSS blade is quite superb - seems to hold an edge forever!

Mujingfang1.jpg


That is a 10 foot shaving.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
did you push it or pull?

Paul, I push the plane. The same goes for HNT Gordon versions.

I was shown how to use the cross handle by Terry Gordon (of the above planes). In my naivity, when I first began using his planes, I would grasp the cross piece in one hand (with the other hand on the toe of the plane), as if I were using a Western plane.

The correct method is to hold it with two hands, one on each side of the cross piece, and thumbs pressing down behind the frog.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
MikeW":2ngm7txn said:
Hi Byron,

I would take a little time and find a vintage Record or Stanley #3 and put a Hock/Samurai/whatever thicker blade in it.

Take care, Mike

I like that too. I have a stanley #3, with a matherson blade....#3's I think are a good sized plane....feels good in the hand.

Get you a picture if you like. I was lucky to find a wooden plane blade that tapered quick enough such that I didn't have to modify the frog levers to adjust.

If it don't fit, surgurys quite possible too, which I've done with a #6. A wrote a thread on it somewhere. Can get that too if interested.

Definetly toss the thin blade into the steel scrap though, and replace with a thick one, whatever you choose I reakon... :wink:
 

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