Belt and Disc Sander : Latest distraction

[Fitzroy]

I’ve been thinking about a disc sander for the workshop for a while so when this came up locally on FB marketplace I had to have it.

It has not a single manufacturer clue on it, inside the electrics say Taiwan Company, and from image surfing it looks like a Grizzly clone.

The unit is mainly cast aluminium with a cast iron table on the disk. It seems pretty good quality and is plenty heavy. With a 12” disk and 6”x48” belt.

Looks like it’ll just need a light clean and be put to work. Anything I should check on it before using?

 

[Spectric]

inside the electrics say Taiwan Company, and from image surfing it looks like a Grizzly clone.

That looks a lot more substantial than many of the current offerings, a cast table and what looks like a heavy duty lever to tension the belt, could be a very good purchase if the price was right.

 

[Inspector]

I have a Grizzly slow speed version that is similar but not exactly like yours. Belt release/tracking mechanism is aligned with the top roller shaft and the base has holes in the corners for bolting to a bench. Some more cast iron too I think, both tables for example. The Grizzly manuals are downloadable and are close enough that they well serve you. The mitre slots in the table are 3/4" so standard, here at least, match most table saw mitre gauges but the head will be close to the sandpaper. It is well made and you should be pleased with it.

Pete

 

[okeydokey]

If it turns freely then just check the fuse in the plug is correct and the wires are securely tightened in the plug and off you go

 

[--Tom--]

Looks good, could be worth checking the platten is still flat and the rollers haven’t worn concave. I’d just use it and check the belts track ok and that it’ll reliably give a perpendicular edge

 

[Fitzroy]

Thanks all. It looks like there is a dip in the carbon plate covering the platten so will order a new one of those. Bearings seem good. Will check the rollers also.

 

[Fitzroy]

Couldn’t leave it alone. Stripped it down and inspected all parts. Top roller bearings were very stiff, not gritty but likely dry as a bone as only metal seals. Knocked them out and ordered some new ones, only a few quid each so may as well.

Both lower drive pulley and sanding plate are just on a taper, I’d have liked something more substantial, a keyed shaft etc but once I cleaned off a little corrosion they seem in good nick. Almost zero runout on both, at the very limit of my crappy dial gauge.

The sanding plate is slightly convex with the edges c. 0.1mm closer to the machine than the centre. However it’s pretty consistent around the disc so should be able to correct for it with the table to ensure table slot is parallel with the side of the disc in use.

Motor spindle has no play or roughness but does make an odd crackling sound occasional when turned by hand. However the motor housing is a beast, as it supports most of the sander, and I’ve no intention to open it up if I don’t have to.

Glad I found the dry bearings, get them changed and get it into use.

Fitz.

 

[Fitzroy]

Why don’t the new bearings bloody fit, must have been sent the wrong ones! Nah, user stupidity of course…..

6203, 6203!

Anyone need a couple of 6302 bearings let me know and I’ll send them on to you.

F.

 

[clogs]

that looks very well made.....esp the taper spindle.....so much better than a plain shaft and woodruff key....
the only thing that ever worries me is that the earth wire is sound and in contact at both ends....
provided it's not a double insulated machine but with all that Ally I doubt it....

 

[Housey210]

Looks like Nutool, circa mid 80s

 

[Sideways]

With the right belts (it's easy to have ceramic or zirconium ones made to fit) these cut metal perfectly well. Handy for the coarse work when rescuing plane and chisel blades, turning tools and dressing the ends after you shorten a bolt, etc etc.

 

[Spectric]

Both lower drive pulley and sanding plate are just on a taper, I’d have liked something more substantial,

The capability of a well matched taper is often under rated, in many areas the plain taper is used. If you have had to change a front ball joint on some cars suspension you will know just how tight they can be and even camshaft pulleys have used plain un keyed tapers.