bandsaw still driving me nuts!

[Corset]

My perform ccvbb bandsaw has now got a new blade which is great but i seem to be having a problem with excess vibration. It seems to emminate from the lower wheel. When i disconnect the drive belt and run the motor the bandsaw does not vibrate. When i connect the drive belt on it like a washing machine (no blade on) their is a very slight ticking/rumbing noise noise but the wheel does not seem to be bent.
The bandsaw is mounted on a wheeled machine stand but i cannot see any play here as the units are bolted together tightly. Any ideas????
This is quite frustrating but i am learning a lot quickly which i problably an advantage to second hand stuff.
P.s if i can get the bandsaw working i will be able to post pictures of my workbench that i have been building.

 

[Vormulac]

Hi Corset,

I'm by no means an expert, but from previous experience, a ticking/rumbling noise has indicated the death of a bearing.

I seem to vaguely recall a thread on here somewhere where someone mentioned replacing the bearings on their bandsaw (possibly a Perform CCBB?) and made it sound reasonably straightforward. Have a search and see what you can find.

Good luck!

V.

 

[Taffy Turner]

Corset,

Almost certainly the bearing gone.

With no blade on the machine, the bearing is under virtually no load, hence only slight ticking / rumbling.

With the blade fitted and tensioned, the bearing is under load, and hence a lot more noisy.

The bearing should be fairly easy to replace - give Axminster a ring - their service dept is supposed to be very helpful. They should be able to talk you through it (and supply a new bearing).

Regards

Gary

 

[Corset]

I have just been fiddling with the bandsaw for the last hour and i have discovered that i can stop the noise now stops when the belt is connected to the lower wheel. And the bandsaw runs clearly with no vibration.
As soon as put the blade on the saw starts to vibrate heavily but the blade runs pretty true and is not wandering (a la tracking)
With a new 1/2 inch blade the vibration is not anywhere as near as bad as with the 3.4inch blade( i have tried both 3/4inch blades same problem). To compound matters the ticking noise has now stopped.
Should a bandsaw vibrate like this?? The only comparison i have got is the startrite at my evening course which is as solid as a rock. If i put a one pound coin on side it kust vibrates over(read on some website this is a test).
The irony is the saw cuts well if you don't mind it shaking as you work (which i do!!!). Getting close to limit of my frustration.

 

[NeilO]

i agree with the others, deffo a bearing shot....freewheel the wheels by hand, if they feel in anyway rough thats your problem....having the blade on and tensioned only heightens the problem as its pulling against the bearing, hope this helps and good luck sorting it out.

 

[Hitch]

Yup, 99% the bearing.
The trouble is with very low budget machines they are built with the lowest quality parts, so wear faster and arnt as good from the begining.
Usually a bolt throught the centre of the wheel to remove, remove washer and wheel. The bearing probably only comes out from one side, so tap it out whichever way it needs to go, something like a socket makes an ideal drift.
Tap in new bearing, lubricate as required and refit wheel.

I hade a similar problem with a clarke lathe (I can hear you all laughing!! )

 

[Corset]

I have taken the wheels apart (good fun) and the rear bearing on the lower wheel had the seal broken and the bearings had dust in them. Furthermore the circlip to locate the bearing seemed to be missing. I will pick up some new bearings on manday and see what difference that makes. I have also got a new v-belt
Hope this works i actually want to start using the saw sometime....
Thankyou for your advice. I will post results on monday.

 

[Jarviser]

If you can get the same size bearings but with rubber seals (...2RS) you should have less problems with sawdust clogging them. Nearly all these cheap saws seem to have shielded bearings which are of limited life in such an environment.
look

 

[Corset]

Well i have replaced the broken bearings with good quality bearings throughout and reconnected the belt, blade etc.
There was a marked improvement, however, the saw was still vibrating. After much fiddling i discover that moving the trolley to different parts of the uneven floor solves the problem. So simple it made me put my hands to my head.
This does lead me to another question (sorry). The bandsaw is on an axminster heavy duty roller stand (the one where you push on the fulcrum to lift onto the wheel) and when the wheels are raised (saw at slight angle) the bandsaw vibrates when i leave it on wheels its fine (bit more level). The varience is very minor,but... Is this normal?? and would i be better of making my own roller stand out of lockable castors and three laminated sheets of 3/4" MDF. The floor is painted smoothed concrete, typical for small idustrial units.
I would like to thank everbody for there most usefull advice already.

 

[Neomorph]

If you can get the same size bearings but with rubber seals (...2RS) you should have less problems with sawdust clogging them. Nearly all these cheap saws seem to have shielded bearings which are of limited life in such an environment.
look

I just read your page on changing the steel protected bearings and replacing with the rubber sealed ones. I didn't realise that fitting the rubber ones could be dangerous though...

I used old socket spanners of the correct diameter to tap the new ones in, using the OUTER race to avoid damage to your balls.

:shock: :lol:

 

[Offcut]

Corset

If you still have a vibration problem then there must be some out of balance to the drive system possible the main blade wheels. This may be the reason why the bearing went in the first place.

Maybe try removing the blade and freewheeling the upper and lower wheel see if it stops at a particular point - indicating that there may be more weight at one side. You could try experimenting with some stick on weights.

Andy

 

[Corset]

Sorry bit confused by what you mean there. If i run the wheels freely i have no problem now. When the stand is on the right bit of floor it does not vibrate i am thinking the stand is not holding the bandsaw as it should be. I think the axmister stand is warped maybe??

 

[MIGNAL]

What Andy is saying is that the wheels on your Bandsaw are not 'balanced', pretty much in the same way that tyre fitters have to balance the wheels of a car. It's fairly easy to check. Unplug the machine and remove the blade - with a pencil mark a position on one of the wheels eg. 12 'O' clock and then spin it and let it come to rest of it's own accord. Repeat a number of times noting each 'rest' position. If the wheel is in balance the rest positions should be random. If it is out of balance the rest position will tend to favour one section of the clock face.
I doubt if this caused the premature wear of a bearing though. I have the smaller version of this machine and can say that the quality of the original bearings are poor. Consider it an upgrade if you've replaced them with better quality ones.
Surely it's going to vibrate if it's not on a level surface? or have I missed something?

 

[Corset]

Tried your test and the wheels appear balanced. Have placed bandsaw on level service (worktop surface on floor) and discovered that the base is somewhat unlevel, to say the least. So after wedging on some battons it appears to stop the vibrations. I think the drive belt is also worn (this is only the bit i havn't i've got left to do so i will change this as well(in for a penny...).
With no drive belt on/belt fairly loose, the action is very smooth the belt appear to be a bit stretched and a bit lumpy.
Therefore i think i will make a leveling base within the mobile stand and then clamp the base a tight to it as i can with bolts. The other option is to make leveling legs with threaded bad but i am unsure how to do this.
To ask again what level of vibration is acceptable???. I presume you are still going to get a slight humm (for want of a better word).
Sorry about all the questions but i am determined to fix this as i hate giving up. Furthermore i could afford this bandsaw and i did not want to buy a smaller saw and regret it later. What i learn now i will be able to apply if i ever upgrade. Then again i should have bought a secand hand startrite or something but you could just keep on going.

 

[Corset]

I would like to say a big thankyou for everybodies help with me fixing the bandsaw it is now cutting well with no vibrations and i managed to cut a 2mm veneer of four inch pine yesterday(not oak or anything but i am well happy).
In the end i had to realign the wheels, apply a new belt (made a big difference), apply new bearings and construct a much more solid base.

While i do not feel qualified to review it the saw is very sturdy but the construction is a bit agricultural and seems to require a fair bit of shimming and fine tuning. The base of the saw is not flat and this i believe has caused a fair bit of the vibration.
The blade guide while having bearings is not aligned to the blade and required filing flat to align. The adjustment is vis allen keys and screwdriver which is a bit of a pain.
The fence provided with the saw was awfull and had a great deal of friction to move from side to side. Fortunately one of my workmates drove over it so i had to but an axminster bandsaw fence upgrade which is very good. The fence is solid as a rock, has good height and t-slot. It is also very easy to adjust for drift i would reccommend it as it has vastly inproved the saw.
The table is cast iron and is pretty flat the mitre guide provided is a little loose but of a good substantial quality. The table is held by friction in place and not rack and pinion but is easy to set and i do not envisage changing the table angle much.
The saw has plenty of power and i think unlikely to bog down in much, and it is easy to tension the blade to a good level. This is by screw adjustment, it would be nice to have a quick adjustment but that is just being lazy.
The doors are openable by screwdriver and i will replace with some knobs in the future. There are two microswitches activating the motor which is braked and stops in about 5secs.
Changing the blade is very simple and takes about 5mins tops. With most of the time in unwinding the tension knob. I like the fact the blade does not have to be turned 90degrees to get the balde out of the table.

I am 6ft 2" and i find the saw at a very comfortable height and now set up correctly has a substantial feel to to it which i really like. I bought the saw second hand and so some of the above faults may have been from the previous owner. I think if i was going to buy the saw new i would save up and get a record saw (350x) but judging by the post this does not seem without problems, or similar. However i think this saw would offer still good value if purchased new as it is £150 pounds cheaper. Hope this may may be of use for someone