bandsaw advise please

[stevebuk]

hi
i recently wasted another £80 buying an underpowered 200w charnwood bandsaw, can anyone tell me of a good bandsaw that doesn't cost the earth, not too big, and will cut 75mm thick Iroko in 6mm thick strips, as i cant seem to find one.
thank you
steve

 

[bjm]

Hi Steve

I recently bought the Record Power BS300 (£380) and I have cut 150mm ash, beech and sycamore thinner than you want without any problems. I haven't tried iroko (as I don't have any) and if 75mm is the maximum size you want to cut then maybe the BS250 would suit you which is cheaper still (< £200).

Brian

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Steve

Before you do anything else, have you bought a new blade? The blades supplied with all bandsaws are terrible.

Cheers,
Neil

 

[Gary]

I'll second Neil. Try a decent blade first and if your still not happy with the machine come back and tell us how much of your money you want help in spending.

 

[paulm]

Yep, definately worth trying a new blade first, try Dure-Edge 0161 4302647 or Dragon Saws 01443 819910, should only cost around a tenner I would guess and may make a big difference.

Cheers, Paul.

 

[9fingers]

I certainly seconf Dragon saws . I had heard the Dure-edge were no longer trading or have they risen from the ashes?

Bob

ModEdit: At NO TIME did Dure Edge stop trading. They did however suspend sales of bandsaw blades for a short period. They are a very reputable company.

Thanks for putting me straight. I certainly did not intend to misrepresent the trading position of Dure-Edge.

Bob

 

[brianhabby]

Hi Steve,

Is your blade tensioned properly? I know when I was learning to use a bandsaw I was amazed at how much tension was needed to be able to cut straight with it.

The above advice about a new blade is also good.

regards

Brian

 

[stevebuk]

hi guys
not sure if its the blade, although a new one wont go amiss, its crap at cutting even pine, the machine just doesn't have the power to get the blade through the wood. I have an old cheapo Ferm bandsaw, and its cut oak, pine, iroko, zebrawood and allsorts with no problem, but the fence is broken and i cant seem to find anywhere that will sell a fence seperately, but i will look at the Record bandsaws anyway.

 

[paulm]

Steve,

As has been suggested check the tension on your existing blade which may make a suprising difference.

It's easy to make a fence for the Ferm also, just a batten of wood and one or two clamps and you're done, or make a point fence instead if the cut tends to drift.

On the other hand, if you really just want a new machine then go for it !!!

You'll still need a decent blade though.......

Cheers, Paul.

 

[stevebuk]

Sod it, i have just read 5 reviews on the record BS250 and it sounds right up my street, with a couple of guys using it to cut very thin wood, so i have ordered it, got it for £169 delivered, bargain.
Bye Bye charnwood, over to ebay..
thanks to all for the information

 

[woody67]

I'm interested in the new blade theme along with power of bandsaws and although I've got a very cheapo 350W with it's original blade, will a new blade and proper tensioning make it any way half decent? It does have a fence but at the mo, it's totally useless for ripping thin strips as it wavers more than Pete Docherty in an off-licence. :shock:

Thanks

Mark

 

[bjm]

Steve

I'm sure you will be happy with the BS250. One recommendation though for cutting thin strips would be to knock up an additional fence that is deeper than your timber. The supplied fence is good but not very high.

Brian

 

[tenpin]

I Have the Record BS250 got from Yandles at their last show...brilliant piece of kit.
I bought after the guy demo'd it cutting veneer thickness cuts of allsorts of timber. It will also do larger cuts but you have to feed a bit slower.
I echo points above and recommend spending a few pounds more on a decent blade and i spent around 3/4 hour fine tuning/tensioning and squaring the saw till i was happy with all cuts.

Nick

 

[devonwoody]

I found that its the blade that counts on bandsaws.

If the wheels go round that all you need from a B/S.

 

[misterfish]

I can only reiterate - make sure you have a decent blade. When I got my saw the blade would bind and burn the wood, and it wouldn't cut in a straight line. I spoke to the chap at Dure-edge who was extremely knowlegeable and helpful and I had three new blades shipped within a couple of days.

These decent blades transformed the bandsaw - no slowing, no burning, just clean straight cuts. I was cutting thinnish (3mm) flat 'veneers' of oak from a 150mm slab of timber without any problems.

MisterFish

 

[iajon69]

I'm interested in the new blade theme along with power of bandsaws and although I've got a very cheapo 350W with it's original blade, will a new blade and proper tensioning make it any way half decent? It does have a fence but at the mo, it's totally useless for ripping thin strips as it wavers more than Pete Docherty in an off-licence. :shock:

Thanks

Mark

Mark - a new blade can make a World of difference. Generally the blades that come with the machine are rubbish and it's not until you change it for a good quality blade will you appreciate how great the bandsaw is as a machine! It's important to match the tooth pitch and width of the blade to match the material, thickness of material and type of cutting that you are doing but a decent blade can transform even a cheapo bandsaw

Ian

 

[stevebuk]

ok guys i am going to do the new blade routine, just to see how the charnwood fairs, i will also order a couple of blades for the Record too, but if i am to cut veneer thickness stuff, what tooth pitch should i go for?
many thanks to all..

 

[paulm]

For that application and size of machine Steve I would probably go for a 6tpi blade 1/2" wide if the machine would take it, or 3/8" wide if not.

Should only cost £10 to £15 for a smaller machine I would think .

Let us know if it makes as big a difference as we think, just make sure it is tensioned nice and taut and the guides are all adjusted properly when you install it and it should work a treat I would hope.

Cheers, Paul.

 

[devonwoody]

To quote an experience I had last week. I put my M42 (14tpi) in to cut some dovetails.
After cutting dovetails I wanted to resaw some oak so I put a 4 tpi blade in from a purchase I made from a bandsaw machine supplier of some time ago.
Ater trying to cut this oak (smoke was coming away from timber and hardly any progress) I chucked away the blade and returned to the blades I have been using from one of the suppliers mentioned above .
The timber cut as if I was cutting butter.
So its the blade that counts.

 

[NickWelford]

As a matter of interest - where do Axminster blades fall in the league of blade perfection?