Bandsaw adjustment help

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NOTTNICK

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East Bridgford, Notts
I've recently got myself a Draper 315mm bandsaw.
It is set up fine laterally, but I notice that the cut isn't quite vertical.
This means that the top of the cut is in front of the cut at the bottom.
The bed adjusts angle left / right but not front / back.
The blade seems to be central on both wheels.
I can't see how I adjust this, I can lift the back of the bed up (which makes it worse) but not down.
Am I missing something?
I am new to band saws, is the blade supposed to be at a slight angle? It is about 2mm out in 120mm height.
Thanks
Nick
 
Are the rear guides set o/k they should be slightly away from the back of the blade when its running.


Pete
 
The blade runs clear of all the guides, so they aren't affecting it at all. It looks like the adjustment of the bed.
The blade is central on the wheels, so I am thinking it is a manufacturing fault.
I have wedged the connecting plate with some folded paper - that seems to line things up now, but not what I'd expect to have to do. (see photo).
I should be able to find some washers for a longer term fix.
Is this an unusual problem? Has anyone else had to deal with this?
I don't know what tolerances I should expect to have in a piece of equipment like this.
I suppose if it works with home-made spacers, it should be OK.
I want to use the saw right away, but shall think about the DVD.

Or am I completely wrong, and in fact bandsaws are not supposed to be vertical in that plane?
 

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I've been shimming my charnwood planer/thicknesser today. The infeed table was out of whack with no inbuilt adjustment. Is the draper you have a cheaper model?
My p/t is the same chinese import as a lot of other re-named models. They'll be made in the same factory.

I ended up shimming one side of the table with a .5mm spacer, that's quite a lot over a 250mm bed!!
 
NOTTNICK":2czosiw6 said:
... Or am I completely wrong, and in fact bandsaws are not supposed to be vertical in that plane?

I've got a low-end SIP. I've had to settle for that being out, as it changes depending on the tension/blade size I'm using. Tightening down the tension bends the frame and twists it slightly, resulting in the blade running best when it's tilted about 1-3 degrees front-back.

It's not ideal but I live with it. It's only really a nuisance for deep curvy work and tenon cutting, but it's usually no worse than the kerf of the blade (for the tenon shoulder cuts), so it doesn't actually cause much of a nuisance.

Can you post a picture with an engineer's square next to the blade?

The height of the top guide is likely to affect it too, I find.

E.

PS: the bsandsaw table is only really a support for the stock. If shimming those bolts works, go for it!
 

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