The key to bandsaw performance is the setup. Sounds obvious I know, but I think a lot of people (not saying you do) expect them to work perfectly straight out of the crate. I think that would be rare.
The main thing is choosing a bandsaw that, as custard said, fits your needs, but also one that is *capable* of being set up correctly. So being of a good enough construction to adequately tension a blade, being made of good enough materials for the table to be made flat, a means of mounting a sturdy fence and so the list goes on.
If a bandsaw meets those criteria then it will do the job if you choose appropriately. The trouble is, a lot of the cheaper saws simply cannot be setup to perform no matter what you do with them (short of replacing half of the saw), because the tolerances at manufacturing and the QC are lacking.
That's the main reason why people recommend going for an older industrial or educational machine, because literally any of them, can be *made* to work, even if it takes a bit of effort.
In any case, and I know they get plugged a lot on here, but it's because they are good, but a copy of Steve Maskery's bandsaw DVD series would be an excellent purchase, even before the saw. It helps across the board and can perhaps help to identify the features an expert like Steve considers important.
If I'm teaching grandma to suck eggs I apologise.
PS. If at all possible, I'd pick-up a bandsaw rather than have it delivered and I'd have a good straight edge with me and have the vendor inspect (ideally demo) it before releasing it to me, especially a smaller model like the 250. Could save an awful lot of headaches.