Band saw levelling

[Ttrees]

I decided to file most of the twist out, perhaps a few clouts with a sledgehammer
would have been better, but I didn't want to dismantle my VFD.

It sits a lot more stable now in its base, with decent adjustable feet which wouldn't wobble about on a metal plate, those little bolts what's missing aren't doing much,
only to stop too much weight on a corner.

This is a common enough thing to see on a floorstanding saw,
and they're all pretty much similar in construction,
Nothing is guaranteed to be right, be it a brand new machine or a used one IMO.
I've never seen them being built, but would reckon a wonky base could suggest the first
hint of something being misaligned.
Might not matter if you've got a machine with an adjustable motor,
but that's generally to be found on more expensive machines rather than far Eastern saws. i.e seen on some examples below.

Regardless of ones opinion on inspecting machines or whatever,
Precisely levelling the machine could well be the plan, say if the idea might be to remove the trunnion completely.

Guessing it's not just a question regarding the adjustment bolts thats in-between the top trunnion segment and the table.

 

[Jacob]

.......

It sits a lot more stable now in its base, with decent adjustable feet which wouldn't wobble about on a metal plate, those little bolts what's missing aren't doing much,

They probably held a bracket or foot of some sort. You can't expect a flat plate to sit steady on a floor

...
Precisely levelling the machine could well be the plan, ...

Not something I've given a thought to with my machines. Some over thinking going on here?

 

[Ttrees]

It improves things quite a lot, larger bandsaws can be quite tippy,
and putting such a machine on stilts, (if even just one corner) doesn't help.

Call leveling a machine overthinking if ya like, but I have a lot of pictures which would suggest otherwise.
It would be wrong for someone to point the finger at damaged parts after the fact, rather than spot the problem in the first place, so it's just good practice to do before something like a tire might get ripped off.
BTDT brought new saw back to the shop, as it couldn't be set up with such
misalignments, something bad was going to happen.

Took quite a bit of effort, certainly more than what I've shown,
Wasn't a nice experience I can say, every cheap shot in the book,
most being absolutely ridiculous and downright wrong,
These forums are like the "blind leading the blind" and it was "my fault"

Ah sher those tuffsaw blades are pants, we've stuck our inch blade on it to "set it up"
(took ME buying another of their 3/4" ones to donate to them, which they couldn't get to work either)
You've damaged one of yer side guides (which wasn't being involved, so unused)
being all chappy, we'll give you a new one gratis.

On an on, with friends coming over giving opinions,
Retailer offering me 50% of the money back, even tried to weasel the base I made from me as some peace offering, I told'em that the other blade from them I bought should be enough, considering I'd been back and fourth with them waiting for the
no show Irish version of Snodgrass to show up at my door.

The three R's of retail apply here, and it is for statutory rights.
Repair, replace, or refund.
They had another of the same machines there, which I suggested they try putting the new blade I'd just bought (without sawdust) on, along with a few I'd tried to use...

That I think put an end to that.
I'd have loved to see the difference, wonder if they also didn't bother to snug the jacking screws on that one.

So unless you're buying a Centauro, then one must give a decent sized machine a proper once over before they use it.
If someone can't afford this, then get schooled up to know what matters,
and have say a 3/4" blade on the machine to test it,(if it can honestly actually handle one) as a wider blade will show up misalignments a lot more, compared to a narrow blade, and perhaps get them to set it up on the machine and test it, before it goes in your vehicle.
Not going to clog up this thread any further if I can help it, but the speculation continues.

Tom

 

[Agent_zed]

What I mean is lowering the bandsaw plate so it’s level/flush with the workbench

As @Terrytpot pointed out the OP was asking about setting the bandsaw into a bench.

I'm sure it could work if you set it up for specific cuts with fences etc but unless I am using my bandsaw incorrectly I look down the blade as i'm cutting and guide it through, which you wouldn't be able to do if you are feeding from left to right across a bench.

Perhaps if you had it so it could be pulled out for different cuts that would be ok but as mentioned it would probably be too low for comfortable use.

 

[Ttrees]

As @Terrytpot pointed out the OP was asking about setting the bandsaw into a bench.

I'm sure it could work if you set it up for specific cuts with fences etc but unless I am using my bandsaw incorrectly I look down the blade as i'm cutting and guide it through, which you wouldn't be able to do if you are feeding from left to right across a bench.

Perhaps if you had it so it could be pulled out for different cuts that would be ok but as mentioned it would probably be too low for comfortable use.

I'm sure that's a good way to use it, provided you've got a powerfeed, or similar device to keep the stock against the fence, and have some way to keep an eye on things also.
Or perhaps use the other side of the table/fence instead, seen folk do that aswell,
but other than that, I haven't seen anyone that's not standing somewhat to the right,
(apart from brochures showing the machine capacity off without being in the way.
Like this for example.)

And as an aside, some machines do have quite low tables which are primarily for resawing wider stuff, so the working height is comfortable.
Say if the insetting of the machine be intended for infeed/outfeed use, that could be helpful.
I think I've seen a post about this on the OWWM site, but it's not easy to navigate.