MusicMan":q136hth8 said:I am not sure that there ever was a Wadkin dust port for the cabinet! All the ones I have seen have been user made. Mine has a motor cover that is clearly user made and I am working towards putting a port beneath it and a ramp inside the saw to guid the dust down to it.
Axminster do ports in various sizes and shapes that should be usable.
Keith
merlin":2ix42c9l said:This is the one on mine.
Merlin
KT_NorCal":2666ws7t said:Also, what is that metal bar bit bolted to the side of your table? Something for the fence to rest on? Looks like a good idea actually as I think my table extension is already drilled for that bit...
misterfish":2ybk7u0a said:Yes, you can also see it in my picture of my saw with the home made plywood dust port. It allows the full width of the travel of the fence beyond the edge of the right hand wing.
Jeff
MusicMan":xjuxktlt said:It is worth checking the zero on the mitre gauge. It's adjustable;e and mine was significant out when it came.
Keith
merlin":1gyxpitn said:I don’t think ours can be far apart by the look of them, I’ll put the numbers on the photos.
Cheers, Merlin
KT_NorCal":1nrvm2ue said:MusicMan":1nrvm2ue said:It is worth checking the zero on the mitre gauge. It's adjustable;e and mine was significant out when it came.
Keith
So, here is the mitre gauge de-rusted and cleaned up. Was this the version of it that you were thinking? It seems relatively square, but it is hard for me to really be sure as I don't have a machinists square... My woodworking square is a piece of hardware I'm always a bit suspicious about. That said it doesn't look grossly out of square... it is also hard to be sure because the face is most definitely not flat. I will need to flat that off first and then take another look at it...
Kevin
View attachment 20181126
memzey":3qvyvo0p said:Very happy 1963 BGS10 owner here. I did a full resto thread on the Canadian site a few years ago. A bit daunting at first but all fairly straight forward once you’re into it. They are very similar machines I think although yours is later than mine. I do think yours is configured for a proper riving knife but you seem to have lost the parallelogram bracket which makes it rise and fall with the blade. Watching this thread with interest.
MusicMan":2b0u5827 said:Yes that is the version. The zero can be adjusted by removing that box cover at the bottom.
MusicMan":2b0u5827 said:You don't need a square to check a square, since 4 x 90 = 360, a perfect circle. You can take a piece of plywood and make five cuts using the mitre gauge, rotating the piece one "right angle" clockwise each time. If your gauge is true, you will have a perfect square with all sides equal. If not, the width of the edge at either end of the fifth cut will show you how much it is out.
If you google "five-cut method for square' you will find plenty of detailed descriptions.
When it is all set, you can use your test square to set your woodworkers' square. Or you can build a jig to check your square, as I described in this thread:
high-accuracy-square-setting-jig-t93871.html?hilit=%20square
Keith
misterfish":1cmkuj1b said:merlin":1cmkuj1b said:I don’t think ours can be far apart by the look of them, I’ll put the numbers on the photos.
Cheers, Merlin
My machine plate states 10BRT 79304 so probably just a bit earlier than yours.
Jeff
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