Axminster TS250-2 modifications.

[MikeJhn]

C'mon Erland put us out of our misery, have you cured you 90 deg problem?

Mike

 

[EWS]

Hey Mike.

Sorry for the late update, but i have been in Spain. Now my saw is perfect on 90° and 45° . I have also installed the dust hood under the saw, and that helped big time .

 

[MikeJhn]

Good show, glad it all worked out in the end, I assume it was just that bracket, table saws are such simple things I did not think it could be anything major, or need a complete strip down and rebuild.

Hope you had a good time in Spain?

Mike

 

[EWS]

Had a great time in Spain But now I am looking forward to get in the sawdust, an dig in for the Winter up her in the North

 

[MikeJhn]

Had a great time in Spain But now I am looking forward to get in the sawdust, an dig in for the Winter up her in the North

I do realise that English is not your first language, but "Up her in the North" seems worthy of a comment, but can't think of one at the moment. =P~

Mike
8290

 

[MikeJhn]

Realised I had not shown the drawers open, the bottom drawer is shorter than the two upper drawers due to the extract pipe running behind it.

Strange the bottom drawer photo is too big to be downloaded onto UKW, but the top drawer photo is not, taken at the same time and saved at the same resolution, will take the photo again and re-try.

Mike
9096

 

[MikeJhn]

At last, I know the spelling is incorrect for any SA out there.

Mike

 

[rhencek]

Hi everybody,

in the beginning I am apologizing for my bad English. I have a great interest in this discussion, because I am thinking of the buiyng of this saw. I want to ask for a few things to this saw.

1. What is RPM motor or shaft?
2. I think that the shaft is stored in a weak holder. it's not a problem? problem with vibrations or any?
3. Possible using DADO blade?


thnx

Richard
Slovakia

 

[MikeJhn]

Richard

No need to apologise my english is not that good either.

Don't know the RPM of the motor, but it cuts through Oak at its maximum depth of cut with the right blade on.
Never had any problems with the shaft or any vibration.
Not possible to fit a Dado blade the arbour is too short.

Mike

 

[rhencek]

Mike,
thanx for your reply. I have two more questions.

1. Is the cutting depth really 76mm? Because the page 85 of the manual is also 85mm
2. What maximum saw blade thickness can be used?

thnx

Richard

 

[MikeJhn]

I'v never cut anything thicker than 75mm so have not tried to get the blade higher, sorry not at my workshop so I can not measure it for you, perhaps someone reading this will, but my manual does not have a page 85?

Any normal thickness blade will fit, up too about 3.5mm.

Just had a thought, the blade is held in place with a bolt, therefore if you can get a longer bolt any blade thickness up to the width of the table opening in theory could be used, the bolt, however is right hand thread and you would have to get some spacers to centralise the blade.

Mike

 

[rhencek]

Yea I read it on page 40 of pdf manual. OK I understand. I ask because czech manufacturer PILANA offers grooving blade with a 5 mm tooth width at the thickness of a 3.5 mm. I think that this is quite good alternative (cost 22.- €) to regular Dado blade.

Richard

 

[Bodgers]

Yea I read it on page 40 of pdf manual. OK I understand. I ask because czech manufacturer PILANA offers grooving blade with a 5 mm tooth width at the thickness of a 3.5 mm. I think that this is quite good alternative (cost 22.- €) to regular Dado blade.

Richard

The TS250 mk1 manual states 80mm as max depth of cut, whereas the mk2 is 76mm max, presumably they have altered the table and/or blade holding mechanism which results in a 4mm loss of depth.

Maybe 85mm is theoretically possible with a 250mm blade, but this will be overidden by the saw it is sat in...

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[rhencek]

Yea I read it on page 40 of pdf manual. OK I understand. I ask because czech manufacturer PILANA offers grooving blade with a 5 mm tooth width at the thickness of a 3.5 mm. I think that this is quite good alternative (cost 22.- €) to regular Dado blade.

Richard

The TS250 mk1 manual states 80mm as max depth of cut, whereas the mk2 is 76mm max, presumably they have altered the table and/or blade holding mechanism which results in a 4mm loss of depth.

Maybe 85mm is theoretically possible with a 250mm blade, but this will be overidden by the saw it is sat in...

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thnx for explanation

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[alanch9]

As a new member (this is my first post) wanted to say a huge thank you to all who have contributed to this TS250 thread. I'm an amateur "he's in the garage" woodworker. My retirement pastime. I started reading to solve a problem with my TS250 after the rise n fall got stiffer and stiffer then failed having stripped a thread on the rod that drives the arbor. Got a new one from Axminster but found the whole strip, rebuild and blade alignment, especially the blade alignment... a challenge. I could simply not get it under 0.008 unless the whole mechanism was 3mm to the left of what it originally was meaning my sleds would need fettling. Learned a few new swearwords in the process but it ok now. Then couldn't get blade to 90deg until I realised needed first to release the tilt lock! Yes, there are a fair number of lessons here but if this is the general design of table saws.... This one is my first and last. Simple devices? Of course! (manic laughter).
Apologies for rattling on but this thread has been read and read and really helped so thank you all again.

Alan.

 

[MikeJhn]

Alan

Welcome to the Forum, glad you found some useful information.

Mike

 

[Bodgers]

I am getting tired of the screw clamp fence on my TS200 mk1 and its non repeatability, and fancy something with a more depth of cut, so I am seriously thinking about this saw.

The manual states the TS250 mk2 has a brake - is this actually true? Does the blade come to a stop fairly quickly? Also, on my TS200 I modified my riving knife by filing the top down a little to allow groove cuts - how hard to do is it on this? Also, does anyone have any blade recommendations that work well on it?

And finally, how is the micro adjuster on the fence? Does it actually work?


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[MikeJhn]

I don't know if the brake conforms with the HSE requirements, but it certainly seems to be under some sort of control and does not spin for long after switch off.

I cut my riving knife on my bandsaw with a metal cutting blade, just scribe the shape on the surface taking into account the height of the blade, then grind back to the contour you require on the back and front face, take a look at the drawing jpg below, the piece of paper in the background has the contour of the original riving knife lightly drawn on it, with the wanted contour in bold on the main drawing.

Freud blades work for me, but its the same as every other saw, using an 60 tooth blade to rip through some 50mm timber it will bog down and burn, but install a 24 tooth blade and it will cut though without trouble.

Micro adjuster works, but is a bit of a push to get it engaged, once the fence is set up correctly I find positioning this can be done accurately without the micro adjuster, very infrequently used.

Proposed drawing here:

Mike

 

[MikeJhn]

Slightly better pic of the riving knife:

Mike

 

[Bodgers]

Thanks Mike. Anything that increases safety (with the brake) is a good thing. It is the first time I have heard of any kind of brake on a hobby type saw. I know a lot of mitre saws have them now, so why not on a TS. Maybe if the brakes get better longer arbors for dado sets will return.

Is your riving knife made from mild steel?

Slightly better pic of the riving knife:



Mike

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