Axminster TS250-2 modifications.

[MikeJhn]

I think it will be difficult to fit the stock guides off your router table unless you can detach your router table fence and clamp it to the table saw fence, the fittings are different for each, good luck.

Mike

 

[EWS]

I have built a fence with t-track that i can attach to the fence on the table saw. I can try it out, but thx for the tip. And maybe my rivingknife is bent a small amount, can that make stock drift? Sorry for all the ? i am new to woodworking

 

[MikeJhn]

If your riving knife is not exactly in line with your blade then it will move the stock one way or another after it passes the blade, as I said something is pushing or pulling the stock after it passes the blade.

To adjust the riving knife, wind the blade up to full height and check the area just above the table first, you adjust that area of the knife to blade interface with shims below the table top, once they are in line at the table top you can then lever/bend the riving knife into line with the blade above this area, I used an adjustable wrench closed onto the knife, go slowly or it will get worse.

Mike

 

[EWS]

Ok, then i will try your tips, maybe this will solve my trouble with drifting. If so, you have saved me from using a lot of money to Incra:)

 

[MikeJhn]

One other thing to be aware of with the JessEm table saw stock guide is they are sprung loaded, the set up is to lower the arm onto the stock, as the rollers are lower than the arm this provides the required tension to keep the stock positioned, they are obviously also adjustable for position away from the fence, see the set up guide here: https://www.jessem.com/assets/04301---c ... guides.pdf and article here: http://www.jessemdirect.com/product_p/04301.htm They make handling large sheets by yourself almost a pleasure, the guide prior to the blade feeds the stock against the fence and keeps it there, the guide after the blade does the same job, but holds the cut piece to prevent kick back, highly recommended.

Mike

 

[Eric The Viking]

There are lots of situations that produce kickback, but one VERY significant one is material on the fence side coming into contact with the rear of the blade. Riving knives limit the effect, but don't eliminate it.

The safe answer is two things: a short, uncomplicated fence (not a posh pushblock), which stops just after the leading saw teeth, and accurate saw setup (saw, fence and mitre slots all being exactly parallel). Oh, and safe working practices thereafter.
. . .
This discussion is alarming, because of some of the weirder theories being voiced.

Steve Maskery demonstrates kickback and explains in his "Compleat Tablesaw" videos. He made it after consulting with the Health & Safety Exec., who sometimes, literally, have to pick up the pieces after nasty accidents. It's not rocket science, although Americans particularly would like you to believe it is.

All the "toys" will probably help, but the bottom line is correct setup, safe use and understanding of why and how saws instantly become "weaponized", and NEVER thinking "I can get away with it just this once."

I'm recommending Steve's videos for two reasons - 1. I've watched them, and actually contributed a bit to one of them (that's the personal disclaimer); 2. there is so much stuff out there, especially on YouTube and from manufacturers pushing some miracle product, that is just wrong and dangerously unsafe - his advice isn't in that category. If you don't want to spend the money, at least get the HSE's guidance from their web site.

Sorry: feeling a but grumpy this morning, but have been reading some of this with increasing concern.

E.

PS: If you think a pushblock will do anything other than save fingers getting close to the blade, do some calculations as to the kinetic energy stored in the average sawblade. You will find kickback videos on YouTube with commentary like, "it just pushed XYZ out of the way as if it wasn't there."...

 

[EWS]

Then i going to buy this instead of using my router jessem`s It's so great that one who can so much shares his experiences with us who are new to this I do as you say
The only thing that you have explained about which I do not get is to adjust the saw blade compared to the mite track. I have loosened the four bolts and loosened the tilt lock, but still can`t adjust it?

Do you have a drawing of the zero insert? I will try to do some of these modifications that you've shared with us

sorry for my bad english pronunciation:)

 

[Eric The Viking]

Alignment of the blade needs a dial gauge, or something like that. You might get by with using a digital calliper.

1. Turn off the power and disconnect the plug from the socket.
2. Tighten the mountings that you have loosened gently, setting them as much as you can in the middle of their range of adjustment.
   
3. Raise the blade completely and check it is straight up (90 degrees from the table).
   
4. Measure between the saw blade plate (not a tooth!) and one edge of the mitre slot, at one "end" of the blade, as near as possible to the table. this is measurement "A".
   
5. Measure the same distance at the other "end" of the blade. This is measurement "B".
   If the two readings are not the same, the blade is not straight and parallel to the slot.
   
6. On a TS 200 (and probably a TS 250) you can get at the mountings from the outside of the case, up underneath, but it is difficult. I use a long flat screwdriver so I can push them from a distance to move them slightly:
   • Loosen the mounting at one end, very slightly.
   • Move the mounting very, very slightly, so that the two measurements, A and B are as close to the same as they can be.
7. If you can't do this it with only one mounting moving, get as close as you can, tighten that mount, and repeat the adjustment with the other mounting instead. Obviously, the second mount must move in the other direction.
   
8. tighten the mountings up; check A and B again. If something has moved, start again at (6).
   
9. Drop the blade, tilt the blade and straighten it again. Raise the blade. Re-check A and B.

If all is good, align the fence to the same edge of the same mitre slot (NOT to the blade!). This is to avoid doubling the error (blade + fence both slightly off). Your mitre slot is always the reference.

If you have a sliding table, the same thing applies - pick a place on the carriage, and measure from that to the same edge of the same mitre slot, at the ends of its travel (so you can actually align it more accurately than you can do the blade!).

Assuming all this is OK, you're good. Note that it does not test or prove alignment for the blade when that is tilted over. I don't know an easy way of checking, and anyway, if the blade is wrong when tilted, but good when vertical, you cannot adjust so that both are correct (on cheap saws, that is). You'll have to live with it and just be extremely careful if you tilt the blade.

Hope that helps, and that my English is OK to understand. Sorry, but I couldn't start in Norwegian!

E.

 

[EWS]

Hey Eric

Your engish is good . I will try these tips, my blade is only 1 mm off, but i want to know how to do this if the error become`s bigger later. Thx for good help :lol:

Erland

 

[MikeJhn]

Third drawer and shelf semi completed.

Mike

 

[MikeJhn]

Picking up on Eric's point 6. you can't get to the mountings from outside on the TS250, this has to be done from underneath or as I did from inside the blade insert, have a look at page one on this thread, there is an explanation, in I think the third paragraph.

Mike

This post is out of date, the latest tables have captive bolts for the adjustment of the saw, it is no longer necessary to access the nuts from underneath.

 

[EWS]

Then i will do that

 

[EWS]

My drifting are gone. It was that very small bow in the rivingknife One other thing i cant get the blade to 90°, my stop at 89.8°. I have losen the table top stop inside on the left side, but even then no change. Is this good enough from this kind of saw?

 

[Eric The Viking]

Check that it is not being stopped from 90 by something else. It should do 90.

 

[EWS]

The only thing that it can stop in now is the pivot bolt in the back with a nut and the front where we got the locking bolt where we lock the pivot. And these i cant find any way to adjust....

 

[MikeJhn]

I found I had to force the lifting mech to get too 90deg's, just try putting a bit of force into the handle.

I have to admit guys, I don't use the mitre slots in the table, the small mitre that comes with the saw is a waste of time, so I got the blade as close as I could and then made sure the blade was parallel to the fence and adjusted the sliding table mitre guide to 90deg's, easier to adjust as well.

Mike

 

[EWS]

I will try to force it...

I also did set my fence 90° to the blade and then the sliding table. But today I checked my mitre track with the blade on I thought it was 1 mm off, but it's only 0,3 mm, and that I am happy with . The mitre slot on this saw is a laugh, why don't use the same as they got on there bigger saws?, and what all other serious saws have....

 

[MikeJhn]

The problem is that most saws are made for the American market and therefore have Imperial mitre slots, which to my way of thinking is non standard, in Europe where we are slightly more enlightened we use the metric system and the TS250 has a metric mitre slot, unfortunately most after market manufactures also make for the outdated American market, but then why use a mitre slot when you have a sliding table that is more accurate.

Mike

 

[EWS]

Yes that's true. I just wish we had the American mitre slot, because of all the cool thing you can buy with that mitre.

I think the sliding table is great for large stock, but with small stock I feel it's a bit overkill, but then again we can use a sled for that kind of stock.

 

[MikeJhn]

One of the guys on here use's the Ikea plastic bread boards cut into strips for his mitre guides, may be worth looking at if you feel the need, personally I have never found the need to use the mitre slots in the saw table.

Coming from Norway, what do you call a vehicle or any carrier that slides on two runners?

Mike