Axminster TS250-2 modifications.

[MikeJhn]

Isn't the purpose of a sled to use both mitre slots to keep it in line and get a perfect cut, the cross arm with the cut through acting as a sacrificial backing for the workpiece?

The 100mm outlet on the TS-250-2 is a joke the opening into it is only 50mm approximately and is connected to the bottom blade guard, nothing extracts from inside the open bottomed cabinet, so anything that escapes the bottom blade guard and crown guard ends up on the table or floor, and its a lot that escapes those two, hence all the mods carried out by those that do or have owned this and the smaller version saw.

Mike

 

[pike]

Isn't the purpose of a sled to use both mitre slots to keep it in line and get a perfect cut, the cross arm with the cut through acting as a sacrificial backing for the workpiece?

I don't think that's the purpose of a sled specifically, although using both slots is obviously a good choice.

It's possible to have sleds that only use one slot and running on one side of the blade. I plan to make one like this. https://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/sled.html

The 100mm outlet on the TS-250-2 is a joke the opening into it is only 50mm approximately and is connected to the bottom blade guard, nothing extracts from inside the open bottomed cabinet, so anything that escapes the bottom blade guard and crown guard ends up on the table or floor, and its a lot that escapes those two, hence all the mods carried out by those that do or have owned this and the smaller version saw.

Mike

I don't disagree about the 100mm outlet. I didn't say it was good. As you know I got rid of it. I was just agreeing it's odd for the web site saw info to say "Owing to the small hose diameters, a vacuum extractor works best with this machine" when it's got a 100mm outlet.

 

[MikeJhn]

To be a sled, I think by definition it must have two runners?

Mike

 

[pike]

To be a sled, I think by definition it must have two runners?

Mike

I don't think so. To me a sled is the base bit of wood which carries your work piece. Whether it's got two runners or not is a detail. Then again we are free to call things what we want

 

[MikeJhn]

*******isation of the English language by the Americans as usual. (hammer) :wink:

Mike

 

[pike]

Maybe this is obvious but for me it wasn't.. Blade alignment says undo 4 bolts so you can move the blade housing. I decided to fine tune mine today and couldn't move it at all.

Turns out you have to undo the tilt mechanism clamp. Don't think the docs mention that. It's so much easier if you do that first

 

[MikeJhn]

Thanks for the update, I will add that information to page one.

Mike

 

[pike]

Cheers Mike. Certainly seemed to work for me and I guess makes sense.

 

[MikeJhn]

Yes I suppose it does, the locking levers obviously lock the saw mechanism in place, I would like to think that I would have noticed, but I think I was just lucky that mine where loose already I can't remember consciously loosening them.

Mike
01/01+1290

 

[MikeJhn]

New photo added on page one, of the zero clearance insert, modified riving knife and start of the new crown guard, thought it was better to put it on page one to keep things together.

Mike
1735

 

[MikeJhn]

600 hits since January and no comments?

Mike

 

[Eric The Viking]

It looks very neat.

I suspect the reason for the lack of comments is that people don't easily find the new pictures - perhaps if you just append to the thread instead... I had to hunt and work out which ones were the new stuff.

I am watching with interest, as I'm still rebuilding my TS200. Frustratingly, it has no support for the insert to the left of the blade, making a ZCI awkward to do. But I've been stumped by the pivots of the rise/fall at the moment, so it's on the back burner, until I find a nice metalworking shop locally.

 

[MikeJhn]

Eric

I see what you mean about the new pic's, perhaps I will post to the thread as you suggest and just update the earlier content as required, thanks for the insight.

My zero insert is only fixed at each end by the magnets, IMO the fence or the stock hold down the insert to a greater extent if its well fitted, and being aluminium its very stiff and won't lift at one end only.

Mike

 

[Eric The Viking]

Thanks, Mike.

The issue with my older-style TS200 is that there's little space at either end of the blade, and no lip underneath for the ZCI to rest on on one side. I'm pretty certain this got redesigned with the Mk2 version, and thus with the TS250.

Once I've sorted the pivot issues, I'll probably fit some sort of a homemade lip. I do have some thick aluminium sheet I can use though. As I said, for me the problem is no longer having access to machine tools (or a nice bloke with a workshop!).

The pivots are tricky: My TS200 frame is well worn (I think it had a hard life before I got it), and the pivot holes are oversize and no longer circular. This affects blade alignment indirectly, so reduces the accuracy of the saw. I need to fit bushes probably, which in turn needs accurate machining, probably, and I only have a cheap pillar drill.

E.

 

[MikeJhn]

How about epoxy resin pack the holes and then drill them out, with a decent epoxy it will work, if you can get it Hysol 9462 is an structural adhesive and sets rock hard, may even work if you over drill the pivots and epoxy in some bushes.

Mike

 

[MikeJhn]

New overhead guard nearing completion, lead in piece still to fit, I think I may increase the angle at the front to allow easier lift up, then need to close the rear of the guard and seal the edge's.

It does not look it, but the Polycarbonate is crystal clear, I have not removed the protective film on the outside to protect the surface whilst I work on it, I will then round over the edges and chemically polish the cut piece's, the extract tube shows how clear it will be.

Mike

PS Eric, you are absolutely correct, once you get used to it, direct pasting is easier than Photobucket, I'm a convert.

13-3, 2123

 

[Bodgers]

Eric

I see what you mean about the new pic's, perhaps I will post to the thread as you suggest and just update the earlier content as required, thanks for the insight.

My zero insert is only fixed at each end by the magnets, IMO the fence or the stock hold down the insert to a greater extent if its well fitted, and being aluminium its very stiff and won't lift at one end only.

Mike

You may have confused some people adding numbers and editing various posts of yours throughout the thread. Makes them look a bit confusing to me at least...

 

[MikeJhn]

Ignore the numbers they are there for my academic interest only.

I try to make the previous updated posts as legible as I can, what I think would be wrong/confusing is to have wrong information early in the thread and corrected on subsequent page's, much better in my view to correct the information at the start of the thread and not to lead browsers down an incorrect path.

What I am trying to do is keep all the relevant information about this saw in as few pages as possible at the front of the thread, having to wade through pages and pages of incorrect irrelevant information to find what you want to know can be very tiresome, hence the reason for reserving a few post at the beginning of the thread.

Bodgers, how many times have you looked at a set of instructions and found that after following the assemble from page one, there is an addendum at the back of the manual that means you have to take the whole thing to bits again?

Mike

 

[Oddbod]

I currently have a shiny new TS-250-M2 full kit sitting in its boxes waiting for time to get it up & running.
I've put the Big mouth Dust Hood in my Axminster basket & made notes WRT adjusting the blade alignment & appreciate the time given by Mike & others in posting their experiences & tweaks with this saw.
Hopefully, come October & early retirement, I'll get it & all the other stuff up & running - still looking at bandsaws...

 

[MikeJhn]

Oddbod

I note this is only your second post, welcome to the Forum, if you have any specific questions please ask, everyone is only too please to help, please note the mitre gauge is not that accurate, so as you have the full kit, you have the sliding mitre table, which can be set up very well with reference to the blade and fence, I doubt you will every use the supplied gauge especially if you have a cross cut mitre saw.

Lots of threads on Bandsaws on here, the general consensus seems to favour the Record Power Bandsaws above the 300 series, I personally have the 350 with full bearing guides (not solid metal disc's) and am very please with it.

Mike