Axminster TS200

[apj101]

Morning folks, I bought a axminster ts200 at the weekend, decent saw for the price point (although probably too big far my little shop )
Recall a few people on this site have this saw and wanted to ask a few questions.
The table fence isn’t really long enough, it only goes about 1/3 – ½ the length of the table and therefore doesn’t clear the saw blade, while good to prevent kick back it makes the final few cm’s a pain to cut as there is little support……how did/would you chaps go about fixing this, could fit a sacrificial fence that is longer than the existing fence, but not sure how to do that and ensure squareness. Plus a perm sacrificial fence would permanently throw out my ruler on the sliding arm.
Also there is no bloody adjustment on the fence to square it up! Fortunately its pretty square at the moment, but cant be sure it will stay that way, especially if I put a sacrificial fence on it. Any thoughts?

Overall im happy with the saw, but keen to see comments on the fence issues.

 

[OPJ]

I've also heard it's a decent saw for the price. With your fence problem, take a look at Steve Maskery's YouTube video (he's a member here :wink, which could give you some ideas as to how to construct a false fence.

Your right about the length of the supplied fence, it's short to prevent binding and kickback once the last cutting tooth has done its work, so the timber doesn't get caught by the back of the blade.

When you say it isn't square, do you mean to the table or parallel to the blade? Your false fence should be able to sort either problem if you pack it out inside with thin scraps or 'shims'.

 

[apj101]

thanks, that video is how to make a short rip fence to go over a long on,
i wanted to make the one i have longer, so as to support the piece all the way through
I dont get how you suport the piece and keep it running in a straight line when you approach the end of a cut with short rip fence, i mean at the last few cms only about 2-3 cms of the material is running against the fence....do you rely on the splitting knife to help keep it running square???

 

[TheTiddles]

Well, this post has tipped my balance and I'm going to buy one too, one question first... What blade comes with it? I may as well buy the blades with it if I need them...

Aidan

 

[OPJ]

It takes a bit of practice to keep any length of timber cutting true through the blade once it's past the end of the fence. If you're boards are going to the planer afterwards then I really wouldn't worry about it much! Push sticks, at first, can make the job seem very awkward but, don't even think about putting your fingers within 12" on a spinning blade, even if when it's "slowing down"...!! :?

Sorry, my point with Steve's rip fence was that you could probably make something similar to clamp over your existing fence but make the face board much longer. I reckon it might work... You could add some supports to the extended piece if you're worried about it bending under pressure.

I've made an adaptation of Steve's fence as a deep rip fence for my bandsaw and I can certainly say the design locks securely in place!

Aidan, I remember reading about people having problems with the riving knife on these saws; I think they were thicker than the kerf, not the flat plate... Get in touch with Axminster once you've placed you order, just in case they need to send you a thinner replacement knife. :wink:

 

[apj101]

It takes a bit of practice to keep any length of timber cutting true through the blade once it's past the end of the fence. If you're boards are going to the planer afterwards then I really wouldn't worry about it much! Push sticks, at first, can make the job seem very awkward but, don't even think about putting your fingers within 12" on a spinning blade, even if when it's "slowing down"...!! :?

Sorry, my point with Steve's rip fence was that you could probably make something similar to clamp over your existing fence but make the face board much longer. I reckon it might work... You could add some supports to the extended piece if you're worried about it bending under pressure.

I've made an adaptation of Steve's fence as a deep rip fence for my bandsaw and I can certainly say the design locks securely in place!

Aidan, I remember reading about people having problems with the riving knife on these saws; I think they were thicker than the kerf, not the flat plate... Get in touch with Axminster once you've placed you order, just in case they need to send you a thinner replacement knife. :wink:

yeah, i figured the principles would be the same whether making shorter or longer. Will look into it, but may just keep practicing as you say and see how my cuts turn out...just doesnt feel comforable at the moment and the temptation to get my hand in there to guide the piece is a very dangerious.

Need to upgrade the blade as the one given is no good for cross cuts of sheet goods anyway.

Regarding the knife, mine seems ok. If it were bigger then the kurf of the blade id expect that to manifest itself as a catching feeling as the cut hits the knife, which i never felt.

Only issue I noted so far was that if the blade is set at 45* and you retract the blade to leave only a small amount exposed (as in if you wanted to make a spline cut on a mitre corner) the blade seems to deflect slightly as you lower it into the housing, losing its 45*.

 

[filsgreen]

Hi APJ

I bought one of these recently but APT messed up on the export side and could not deliver on my day off, so i've had to cancel the order until my next day off. Since then I have had second thoughts, not only about the machine but also the blades, there is little choice about unless I want to pay £20 for delivery.

I'm also reflecting on what a lot of the members are saying about the cost. I know Rich is happy with his and I thought this would be adequate for my needs and skill level, but if I'm going to improve I will probably end up getting a better model

Your post has been helpful in highlighting its shortfalls and I'm wondering if I was to upgrade to a scheppach, would I find similar problems and would this be a wise investment?

Cheers

Phil

 

[wizer]

Which sheppach was you considering? When I was initially looking for small TS, I ended up settling on the TS2010.

Ok, it hasn't got a CI top like the others, but it's very well made. It's a scaled down version of the larger Sheppach and when I looked it over at Ally Pally last year I was suitably impressed.

http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/s ... S2010DEAL3

 

[Rich]

Morning folks, I bought a axminster ts200 at the weekend, decent saw for the price point (although probably too big far my little shop )
Recall a few people on this site have this saw and wanted to ask a few questions.
The table fence isn’t really long enough, it only goes about 1/3 – ½ the length of the table and therefore doesn’t clear the saw blade, while good to prevent kick back it makes the final few cm’s a pain to cut as there is little support……how did/would you chaps go about fixing this, could fit a sacrificial fence that is longer than the existing fence, but not sure how to do that and ensure squareness. Plus a perm sacrificial fence would permanently throw out my ruler on the sliding arm.
Also there is no bloody adjustment on the fence to square it up! Fortunately its pretty square at the moment, but cant be sure it will stay that way, especially if I put a sacrificial fence on it. Any thoughts?

Overall im happy with the saw, but keen to see comments on the fence issues.

Try Rutlands, their fox table saw is exactly the same but with a longer fence.

Regards,

Rich.
(you may be able to buy a seperate fence from Rutlands)

 

[filsgreen]

Sorry to hijack your thread APJ . Wizer, I will comment on your suggestion on my thread about the TS200.

Phil

 

[Niki]

Hi Apj101

My TS came with a fence that can be extended almost to the table end and in my opinion was too short...I made an home-made long fence.

The short fence will eliminate almost any kickback because of "Reaction wood" that can "Spring out" and with Long fence, the only way for the wood to go is....to the up-raising teeth of the blade and before you say Jack Robinson, a UFO is flying toward you.

At the beginning, I was very sceptic about the Short fence but after I've tried it a few times and did not have any problem, I'm using it as a "normal operating procedure" when I'm ripping Solid wood.

When you cut Man-made boards like, MDF, Plywood or chipboard, you have to use a Long fence...I think that you can make an "Add-on" as Steve Maskery did...I mean, the method that he attached his fence to the original one.

On the pics below, I'm ripping a 170cm and 190cm boards...no problems at all...

I posted the following text ant pictures on an American forum and I just "Copy and Past" it here...

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is my setting. As you can see, I'm using the "Rollers Feather board" (I never rip a long board without them).
Also, please note that I'm using Infeed and Outfeed table that are, IMO, very important.
I don't use the "rollers Outfeed table" first, because I don't have it and second (and maybe more important), I read somewhere that the rollers might pull or push the board to one side leading to a dangerous situation (if they are not exactly lined up with the TS).

Closer view, please note how much of fence support I have before the blade - 24" - that is holding the board attached to the fence far before it enters the blade.
You can see the simple - but very long - push stick...28" long so even when I push the board past the blade, my hand is still very far behind.

I set the fence almost to the Arbor center (the hole that you see on the table near the blade center is for pushing a pin to lock the Arbor for blade change).
As you noticed, I love "high blade" for ripping solid wood. It's easier on the motor, the feed rate is faster and the cut is cleaner without burn marks but of course, I use the blade guard that covers this "meat and bones slicer" totally.

Ready to cut...please note that I'm using the "Low fence even though the board is 1¼" thick.
It gives me more "open area" and actually the "High fence" in not needed even if the board was 3" except in the case of re-sawing (that I never did on the TS)

I'm still using my hand to push the board from the end

But that's the point that I revert to push stick

Last push.....

Done...please not where is my hand when the cut is finished...

As you can see, no burn marks even though I use 60 tooth blade.

I took another board....longer - 75" that, if you call it "not straight", it's a "compliment" for this board...

Same procedure...

Finished...

Again, no burn marks.

Regards
niki

 

[wizer]

I do like your feather board niki. I might have to make one of those. :-k

 

[Niki]

Thank you Wizer

Don't say; "I might have to make one of those"
But say; "I must make one of those"

It's totally different table saw operation...I don't have to use my left hand to support and push the wood to the fence, it's not only pressing the wood to the fence but also, pressing it down to the table.

All I have to do is, push the wood forward, first with my hand and than with the push stick...I can push with my right hand or left hand. I can stand on the left or the right side (as you can see, the pics are taken ones, while I stand on the left and ones, on the right)...very relaxed and safe ripping...

Regards
niki