Axminster m950 drive centre

[Duncan A]

The spindle boss holes are almost certainly:
1. Threaded for indexing (probably a UNC thread)
2. Unthreaded for locking the spindle.
Find a steel bar that's a snug fit in the hole and rotate the spindle until it locks. If it doesn't lock, it may be that you need a slight reduction in diameter on the end of the bar. Once firmly in place, get someone to hold it there, hold a close fitting spanner on the hex and give it a sharp whack.
Don't even think about using screwdrivers and Stilsons!

 

[Stigmorgan]

The spindle boss holes are almost certainly:
1. Threaded for indexing (probably a UNC thread)
2. Unthreaded for locking the spindle.
Find a steel bar that's a snug fit in the hole and rotate the spindle until it locks. If it doesn't lock, it may be that you need a slight reduction in diameter on the end of the bar. Once firmly in place, get someone to hold it there, hold a close fitting spanner on the hex and give it a sharp whack.
Don't even think about using screwdrivers and Stilsons!

He doesn't have the holes on his model

 

[Sachakins]

That thread looks like it goes into the nut, it needs a good scrape and clean out first, wire brush to clear out the threads.

The headstock looks hollow all the way through, if so you could try a knock out bar down the centre, and a few taps with a hammer.

If it is a stuck MT adapter, this method may be enough to free the taper. A spray with a penertrating oil and leave overnight first.

If it doesn't move with a few sharp taps, then we need some more thought on it.

 

[ChaiLatte]

I can't see an obvious way of locking the spindle to get more leverage to try and dislodge it- any ideas on that problem?

A rough and ready way, which will not do any damage, is to wedge a tapered broom handle into the left hand end of the spindle. Hold onto it with all your grip and tap the spanner on the adaptor with a mallet. At worst, the wood will slip in the hole.

It is not clear how the drive goes from the motor to the spindle. If it is a belt, you can make sure the belt is tight and wedge a cloth between belt and pully. That might provide enough reistance to unscrew the adaptor. Again, it is non-harmful as the worst that will happen is that the spindle will slip on the belt. Best to make sure the machine is unplugged before doing this.

 

[Duncan A]

He doesn't have the holes on his model

Supergoose did indeed say that.
Just testing

 

[Katomi woodsmith]

SG let’s us know what you want to do I see HJ has offered to loan you a mt1 to try

 

[alex robinson]

A rough and ready way, which will not do any damage, is to wedge a tapered broom handle into the left hand end of the spindle. Hold onto it with all your grip and tap the spanner on the adaptor with a mallet. At worst, the wood will slip in the hole.

It is not clear how the drive goes from the motor to the spindle. If it is a belt, you can make sure the belt is tight and wedge a cloth between belt and pully. That might provide enough reistance to unscrew the adaptor. Again, it is non-harmful as the worst that will happen is that the spindle will slip on the belt. Best to make sure the machine is unplugged before doing this.

An m950 has a cone drive for the variable speed. They are plenty robust enough in normal use, but very fragile when handled eg changing the belt. Be very careful wedging anything in them or applying any force.

If I remember correctly my m900 had a bit on the outboard end of the spindle you could put a spanner across (sort of - not proper flats, but you could get purchase). Only visible once you unscrewed the casing and expose the belt.

 

[HamsterJam]

SG let’s us know what you want to do I see HJ has offered to loan you a mt1 to try

And I can now confirm that I do have an MT1 drive spur although it’s increasingly likely this lathe has a 3/8-16tpi adapter on it.

 

[Katomi woodsmith]

Ok let us see your work when you start turning
REM folk here will help if they can, so questions ask....