Axminster Cast Iron Router Table Fence

[ByronBlack]

Anyone used this? It seems quite nice from the website and not too bad a price, I was thinking of going the incra route (eventually) but I need something decent until I can afford that, so any users/recommendations comments?

Also, out of interest, are there any similar systems to an incra positioning system out there? I quite like the idea of having total control on the fence distance.

 

[engineer one]

byron, why buy, why not make your own.

imho, the problem with all the tables is that they are a compromise, since they try to be all things to all men. :twisted:

in principal, making your own is no more difficult than your workshop, and it would be better made to fit in your workshop. how about a fold up-down model that is easily removed when you need the space??

there are a number of decent router plates, and my experience with the ryobi cheapie is that the fence is difficult to control, whilst making your own, you can ensure that this is so. In addition, it would save you some money to buy the starter incra.

go for it, you have the skill it would appear, why spend the money :?

paul :wink:

 

[Scrit]

OK, Byron, that looks like a nice fence system, seemingly up to proper spindle moulder standards, although obviously not all that large. The sub-£100 price looks more than reasonable, too. But I have to ask you exactly why you feel the need to put that amount of dosh into what is basically just a fancy stick and pivot?

The fundamental function of a router table fence is pretty much that of a spindle moulder fence - it is there to guide and support work as you push it past the cutter. It has secondary functions of personal protection, dust extraction, etc. but for the most part what people are doing on router tables is shaping edges, cutting grooves and making rebates. And for those functions a stick with a pivot at one end (the infeed end) and a G-cramp at the other will fulfil your needs. Normally at this point someone jumps in and tells me how much they actually need a differential fence (i.e. one where the outfeed can be set further out from the cutter than the infeed, such as you'd need if you were planing an entire edge), but I don't see that as being more than a few percent of any work I've ever done on a spindle moulder, pin router or router table. Ergo as a starter option it is somewhat superfluous, IMHO. Also, unless you want it for the dovetail facilities (and a Leigh jig or Woodrat jig are both potentially as useful) isn't an Incra jig just expensive overkill? If you feel the need to spend money on router stuff, why not go off and buy Bill Hylton's book "Router Magic" then read the HSE sheet on spindle moulder usage (because after all a router table is very similar in many ways to a spindle moulder). It's not only cheaper than any of these factory made jigs, but it will open your eyes to other possibilities.

Also, out of interest, are there any similar systems to an incra positioning system out there? I quite like the idea of having total control on the fence distance.

Total control? With wood? You're joshing, aren't you? :lol: :wink:

Scrit

 

[wrightclan]

Byron,

I have the Axminster fence. I think it is one of my better workshop investments. I've always made my own router tables, but this fence is a nice addition to any table. Yes, I can make a fence as well, but a homemade fence will not have the combination of rigidity, ease of miniscule adjustment, and ease of differential adjustment that this has. It may not have all the bells and whistles of Incra (haven't looked that closely at the Incra.) But for the price, the Axminster one does the job very well. As Scrit said, it's like a spindle moulder fence. In fact, it was originally designed for just that purpose.

BTW, I do use differential adjustment frequently. At the time I bought it, I didn't have a planer. So I used my router for edge jointing. I still use it that way for jointing MDF panels, etc., so as to save my planer blades from the dreaded nicks that MDF leaves.

One thing to check, if you do buy it. Check that the fence cheeks are in perfect alignment. I had to align mine slightly, by shimming with sandpaper.

Oh, and a couple of other benefits: it provides a good dust extraction point, and good hold downs.


Brad

 

[ByronBlack]

HI Paul

I agree, I fully intend to make my own router-table, but I wanted a good solid fence to start with, i'll be using the rouseau plate from axminster.

Scrit, as always mate you make some excellent points, I did have the router-magic book a littlle while ago, but for some reason or other I sold it - maybe because at the time I didn't have many projects that required a router unlike now.

The main reason why I would like good control with something like the incra is the repeatability if the fence has to be reset between jobs, you can always go back to the same measurement if needed, whereas with a non positional system, I.e a sitck and clamp there is always ambiquity with the distances..

As to wanting to put money into the fence, well i've used a couple of home-made ones and neither were very succesful and were a pain to setup so I guess i'm looking for a good standard of fence that will get me up and running sooner than later and with a degree of quality.

But as always it comes down to time vs money. As ever your posts always seem to make me re-think, which I guess is a good thing, but at the moment I feel like all my time is going into making jigs/fixtures etc rather than getting down 'n' dirty with the projects.

Brad, thanks for the feedback on the fence - how is it attached to the table, and can it move backwards and forwards along a single path without you having to line it up at both ends as you would with say just a clamped stick? Not sure that makes sense..

 

[wrightclan]

HI Paul


Brad, thanks for the feedback on the fence - how is it attached to the table, and can it move backwards and forwards along a single path without you having to line it up at both ends as you would with say just a clamped stick? Not sure that makes sense..

I'll take some photos tomorrow to show how it attaches and adjusts.

Brad

 

[ByronBlack]

Cheers Brad, much appreciated!

 

[engineer one]

anyone got a link could not find it by straight search on the axminster site

sorry byron misunderstood, thought you wanted to buy a router table top
complete, not just a fence. but like scrit says, if you are production working, you tend to make a jig which makes re-setting easy even with a stick and ball :lol:

what this would tend to do, is make you consider all the jobs to be done, and try to do them in an order which ensures the least fence re-adjustment, to ensure accuracy. and consistency

paul :wink:

 

[ByronBlack]

HI Paul

What you say sounds great in theory, but i'm not the most accurate worker in practice and need all the help I can get :lol:

Heres the link to the fence:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axmi ... -20350.htm

Looking at in more detail, I think it might be possible to reverse engineer it in phenolic and hardwood.. i'll have to doodle some plans over the weekend.

 

[engineer one]

and you think i am that clever. just that i was taught in a production shop in a factory that did all it could to reduce errors.

actually it is good practice to mark out what you are trying to make,
and then work out a cutting or moulding procedure to ensure that all the cuts are made within the initial set ups.

a recent project i laid out on two or three boards, but forgot the basic lesson, and cut each board separately re-setting. the errors were small, but cumulatively made a big difference.

anyway, just a few thoughts to help (maybe)

paul :wink:

 

[woodbloke]

BB - a home made fence, provided its big enough should give all the support needed. Mine is held by a couple of G-cramps, has a couple of adjustable sliding cheeks and a decently large port for dust extraction. I only use it for small scale rebates, mouldings (rarely) and grooves.

The pic shows the table and fence, cheeks on the fence are 6mm acrylic plastic which isn't quite rigid enough and will be replaced with some 15mm mdf when I get a roudtuit - Rob

 

[wrightclan]

Hi Byron,

Here's the photos and explanation I promised:

It is attached to the table with two large bolts. (I'm pointing to one, and the other is lying on its side.)

You can simply drill 2 holes for the bolts, or rout slots for greater adjustability. I routed slots on an earlier table, but as this is an extension of my tablesaw, I can use my tablesaw fence if I need a fence further away from the cutter.

The bolts thread into a steel bar which clamps it to the table.

The above picture show the amount of adjustability available by moving the whole unit. (Obviously the range can be extended by routing slots, as mentioned earlier.)

Fine adjustment is achieved by turning the knobs in the above photo. (1/4 turn is about .5mm IIRC.)

The above pic shows the bolts to lock down the fine adjustment.

This pic shows edge planing with the outfeed fence set to support the piece in the same way as an outfeed table does on a planer. Once it is set, you can adjust the infeed fence to take a miniscule shaving of the edge of a board. This can also be useful when doing some vertical mouldings that are not bearing guided.

Finally, a pic of the whole unit set up with holddowns, guard, and extraction point. I've replaced the original fence cheeks with some MFMDF cheeks. I also have some tall fences and one-piece zero-clearance fences which I can add quickly with the bolts visible in this pic.

I forgot to take a picture of the back of the fence cheeks. Although you can see it somewhat in the fifth picture. By loosening the bolts at the back of the fence cheeks, you can adjust them laterally, providing an almost zero clearance to most router bits.

Hope this has been helpful, and if you have any other questions, I'll try to answer them.

Brad

 

[ByronBlack]

Brad, your a star, great pics and explanations!

It looks a lot different in the flesh than it does on the axminster website, it's more impressive! I like the find-adjusters with lock-off bolts, that getting near to an incra style positioning format - which as mentioned appeals to me. I suppose one could mark the position of the fine adjusters if there needs to be a return to the measurement..

How do you find the dust extraction from it? Do you have an under-the-table extractor, or does the one with the fence give adequate suction?

 

[wrightclan]

....I suppose one could mark the position of the fine adjusters if there needs to be a return to the measurement..

I thought about doing that. The only problem is, there's about 1/8 turn of slack in it. So you really need to make sure you take up the slack before counting your turns, if you want to rely on that for an accurate movement.

How do you find the dust extraction from it? Do you have an under-the-table extractor, or does the one with the fence give adequate suction?

I don't have below the table extraction. It's on my tuit list, but as I'm moving, there will be a whole lot of new tuits added to my list; and that's way down on the list. I'm quite happy with the effectiveness of the dust extraction from the fence in most circumstances. It keeps dust out of my face and off the working area of the router table. Of course, it's completely useless for housings, etc. but for anything at the edge, it's very good.

Brad

 

[ByronBlack]

Thanks for all info brad, you've definitley answered all the queries I had.. I just have to weight up the pro's and con's of making one now, but i'm quite tempted buy it as it means I can get up and running very quickly..

 

[the_g_ster]

In the search for Incra accuracy but with out the eye watering bill then how about using a set of butchered digital calipers on a parallel sliding system with some kind of turning handle to adjust.

I have just built a standard fence and table that I shall post some pics of. Pleased as have it spot on 90 degrees but wish I had never used the slick tape from rutlands (half sticky, not good).

I was thinking some kind of system with a digital scale. It could be reset for reference against various different shaped cutters, and would work a treat for repeating cuts if you could get it to move correctly.

I am going to look into this week and see if there is a plan I can make that others could follow then may help afew others. I have made the grave mistake of buying my first LN plane, and I really want more now, so prefer to spend money on that and a decent router now too.

 

[ByronBlack]

g-ster. I've tracked down a plan for a micro-adjustable fence that uses a caliper (non digital) and a lead-screw arrangement, it's in FWW issue no.144 - i've posted a thread in the general forum to see if anyone has the got a copy. here's a link to the fence: http://www.patwarner.com/router_table.html Certainly looks like it'll do the job.

 

[gidon]

BB - not to confuse the issue - but a Incra Ultra Litecan be had for only £50 more. (Or if you are going to the US anytime soon as little as £50 )
If offers so much more than that cast iron jobby in my opinion for not much more ... It's an amazingly accurate fence plus can cut any joint you throw are it ...
Cheers
Gidon

 

[ByronBlack]

Hi Gidon, it does look a great piece of kit, but the price :tongue9:

It's a shame I don't have relatives in america, with the pound being so strong I could buy two and sell one

The only other concern I have with the incra is the amount of extra space needed to mount it - my router table will be about the same dimensions as a free standing cabinet and the incra I think would add too much 'back space'.. It's a shame they don't do a tiny one.

 

[ivan]

Good source of very inexpensive digital stuff including scales here, look under 'measurement'. Cheaper than Lidl!