AWVSL900 headstock wiggle

[theallan]

Hi all,

I have an Axminster AWVSL900 - haven't done much with it to date, just little things here and there, but starting to use it a little more now. I've noticed that the headstock has a bit of play when locked into position and tightened up. I've got the headstock at one of the lock points, and then I tighten up the headstock manual lock as much as I can (worried I'll break something if I try to tighten it any more), but I can still grab the headstock and wiggle it left and right a little (when viewed from a above) - only perhaps 1deg. It isn't loose as such, but it certainly isn't firmly locked into place given that I can move it.

I know it is an older model now, but has anyone else experienced this with the AWVSL900 or one of the similar clones?

Thanks,
Allan

 

[alex robinson]

Hi Allan,

I have an axminster m900 (the even older but very similar model) and I have also found the headstock securing is not as tight as I would like. Have you tried tightening the nut on the other side of the headstock lock? I find that by doing this it is always possible to get it locked securely in the over bed position, but it is still a problem sometimes in a position where the manual lock handle is blocked by the bed. I find it the biggest problem with an otherwise great budget machine.
Cheers,

Alex

 

[theallan]

Many thanks for your reply Alex. I actually hadn't noticed the locking bolts on the other side! Unfortunately, tightening them didn't help.

I took the cover off the head stock to take a look at things and I'm fairly sure that it is the pin where the play is coming from:

It has just a tiny bit of play itself, which is magnified over the larger area of head stock.

I'm thinking of seeing if I can get something similar machined without the pull back pin. It would mean unscrewing it if I want to rotate the head stock, but I can live with that!

Allan

 

[theallan]

Here is a little video of the wiggle...

 

[Ttrees]

I've nearly been looking into this on my SIP flavour
Bit of an annoyance which is more so, should one have something fixed to the bed.
I'm hoping another large f clamp like shown (looks kinda small in the pic)
might do the trick of securing it a bit better for now.

If you don't own a chuck, then seemingly a PITA to try and figure out exactly where that headstock should be, say if you wanted to try securing it somehow.
Not being a turner I haven't tried turning a long spindle,
which might get one close enough to using some sort of tramming device.

Not seen anyone doing a job on these in that regards, but there must be someone who has done so.
Well a fair assumption as these are one of the most common lathes goin,
and I've seen Harbour Frieght ones on youtube with treadmill motors.

IIRC I think the only difference between any of these is the threads for the headstock
is finer on the UK sold machines that I've seen.
Not 100% about the Morse tapers though, but I'd guess are the same, apart from some paint and maybe a RPM do-dah.

Maybe you can find something online about this, haven't read about a solution for this here, but then again I wasn't looking for it.

Good luck

 

[alex robinson]

Many thanks for your reply Alex. I actually hadn't noticed the locking bolts on the other side! Unfortunately, tightening them didn't help.

I took the cover off the head stock to take a look at things and I'm fairly sure that it is the pin where the play is coming from:

View attachment 131214

It has just a tiny bit of play itself, which is magnified over the larger area of head stock.

I'm thinking of seeing if I can get something similar machined without the pull back pin. It would mean unscrewing it if I want to rotate the head stock, but I can live with that!

Allan

Hi Allan,

I think the pin may be a secondary problem. The locking handle should lock the headstock securely, in whatever position. Have you tried it when not in one of the indexing positions? Does it lock, or move freely?

I also find the lock points are not the most useful for when turning as they mean the extendible banjo is essential for all bowls with the head swivelled. If you can get it to lock securely in one of the non lock point regions, it is possible to use the standard long tool rest for many bowls / areas on bowls. I find that as this is a lot stiffer and less bouncy it really helps.

 

[okeydokey]

I had a similar to one of these some time back so the following is from memory.
The locking pin you mention is just to lock the spindle to stop it turning while you are removing a chuck or faceplate
Nothing to do with steadying/locking into position the headstock ---- you could take it out as an experiment if you wish makes no change to the wiggle at all. The pin just pushes into a indent on the spindle to lock it.
The bolt that goes through the headstock to under the bed has a nut underneath the bed - when the locking lever is turned to tighten the headstock onto the bed
it pulls the headstock and bed together tightly so the headstock is fixed tightly. In my case I found the locking lever even when turned as far as possible didn't tighten as needed - sounds like your issue.
To cure it I loosened the locking lever so it wasn't trying to clamp them together THEN tightened the nut (underneath the bed) quarter turn or so (you might need to hold the bolt from the top) - the screw thread part of the bolt is now effectively a little shorter than before - then by turning the locking lever into the lock position it worked perfectly without slack or play.
Hope this is your solution, let us know how it goes
good luck

 

[alex robinson]

I had a similar to one of these some time back so the following is from memory.
The locking pin you mention is just to lock the spindle to stop it turning while you are removing a chuck or faceplate
Nothing to do with steadying/locking into position the headstock ---- you could take it out as an experiment if you wish makes no change to the wiggle at all. The pin just pushes into a indent on the spindle to lock it.
The bolt that goes through the headstock to under the bed has a nut underneath the bed - when the locking lever is turned to tighten the headstock onto the bed
it pulls the headstock and bed together tightly so the headstock is fixed tightly. In my case I found the locking lever even when turned as far as possible didn't tighten as needed - sounds like your issue.
To cure it I loosened the locking lever so it wasn't trying to clamp them together THEN tightened the nut (underneath the bed) quarter turn or so (you might need to hold the bolt from the top) - the screw thread part of the bolt is now effectively a little shorter than before - then by turning the locking lever into the lock position it worked perfectly without slack or play.
Hope this is your solution, let us know how it goes
good luck

I think that may be for the awls1000 / m950. The 900 has that style of cam lock for the tailstock, but not the head. I dismantled mine today, and checked the parts diagram and it is the same as the awls 900.

The headstock is locked in place with 2 plates, connected by a bar with a screw at one end and the locking handle on the other. The bar passes straight through the front plate, and screws into the back one. These are forced against a mount on the bed. If turning the front handle to a moderate torque (not risking snapping it) does not completely lock the head, there is something preventing these 2 plates from correctly compressing the mount.

I took the 2 nuts on the back off and turned the handle until tight. The handle was then in the wrong place to allow the head to rotate, but you can remove the screw that holds it in place without releasing the hold on the head. Set it to the correct angle (it has splines inside) and replace the screw. Then out the nuts back on, and the locking and rotating should work.

Sorry for the long post - it should make sense when you look at it, but it is difficult to describe.