AW106PT - Help needed setting up please (F22568, W583, etc.)

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OPJ

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I've already spoken to Axminster a few times and have also contacted several members on here with regards to this planer-thicknesser but, despite all their best efforts, I still cannot get it set properly.

The problem, for those of you I haven't already spoken to, is that the outfeed can sit flush with the blade at one side of the machine but, it will still be either too high or too low on the other side.

Hopefully this first picture will give you an idea of what I mean.

2178215068_54857efcd1.jpg


The edge of the outfeed table is not parallel to the edge of the knives (which have been set correctly, using the supplied jig). If this picture doesn't make it clear enough, the next two should (it's no more than 2mm).

2177423991_d1ba5f9a14.jpg

(This side sits higher and seems to be the one that needs to move.)

2178215250_ce46608161.jpg

(This side is lower; closer to the knives.)


I've tried adjusting this by loosening the two bolts shown below and shifting the table in to position before re-tightening. Upon tightening however, the table simply slides back in to its un-parallel position, as shown above.

2178215518_142779a832.jpg


I know how to level the table across its entire length, which is done using the two "levelling studs" shown below. Also, I don't seem to have a problem with the infeed table. Only the outfeed.

2178215438_996348cc6e.jpg



I'm hoping that someone with this machine or one of the other 'clones', perhaps someone who I've previously contacted, will be able to look at these photo's and have a good idea of what my problem is. Perhaps someone might even have a possible solution...? :wink: I may also try and draw John Fowler's (Axminster) attention to this thread.

If anyone has any suggestions at all, I'd be very grateful to hear from you.


And, just a quick one :roll: :wink: - I've noticed some light rust appearing down the edges of the tables and I'd like to know the best way to remove and prevent it from happening again? I used the Liberon wax on the top.

2177424223_c5ee05424e.jpg


I thank you. :)
 
Ok a shot in the dark. Are you absolutely sure the table is flat at this point? Because if it isn't dead flat and actually rises at that point it would explain why it is also closer or moving in at that point in the horizontal plane. This is a problem that is explained when the table is being machined flat if it is not supported at that point the casting can flex away especially if it is a hard spot like a knot which can sometimes occour.
If that isn't the amswer then I am sorry I don't think I have anymore ideas.

Alan
 
The hole at the side of the e-centric adjuster has a peg in it this will have to be removed to make adjustments the manufacture made the adjustment then drilled and fitted the peg.
 
If you are the first time purchaser, why not ask the Axminster engineer to come in, Bristol is not that far from ~Axminster, so he should be able to call in on route almost any direction except westerly.
 
Aha, thanks DW! I didn't realise Axminster could send someone out. I've had the machine for about 4 months now and haven't been able to get this sorted yet. Andy King doesn't live far from and he's also offered to have a look if he can find the time. I thought I'd try the general forum's opinion anyway though.

As for the flatness, I can confirm that it is flat across its width; there's no obvious, great distortion or warping or anything like that. Thanks for your thoughts though.
 
Hi there Olly, I know I have tried to explain this without a pic and it wasn't easy, but now we have some pics it might be a little easier.
If you look at pic 5 there are 2 adjuster bolts that the table sit on, it looks as though they need to be raised so when the table sits on them its square with the knife block, you may also have to adjust the centre bolt which is what the table locks on to.
 
Thanks Martin, I'll give that a try. I'm also pleased to hear the pictures make it little easier! :D
 
Hi ,Im new here 8) .
Im reading the replys with interest.I have the older model,with upgraded cast fence and the only problem ive found with the machine since ive had it,was the awful alloy fence and the power feed for the thicknesser which isnt too good.I have heard of similar machines (not axminster)having cutter blocks badly set and then having to be shimmed.I hope your problem is just the table!
 
If both tables are level with each other then the problem must be with the cutter block, if it's a bolt on assembly then shimming to get it level should be possible. Mind you, the big Ax shouldn't sell 'em like that!

Roy.
 
Is this the old version or the newer (very recent) one.

I had the older version, and had same issue as yourself. I found that when making the adjustment when tightened up it reverted back to the original setting.

I discovered that near the adjuster the manufacturer had put two 6mm roll pins to keep the setting once set. I removed the roll pins realigned the outfeed table and tightened everything up and then drilled two new 6mm holes and reinserted the roll pins. Never had any more problems after that.

Hope this helps.
 
Hi ProShop. I'm absolutely delighted to hear from someone else who has had the same problem! :D It is indeed one of the last models with the almuminium fence (which I like), which I purchased in a sale shortly before they revamped it as the Mark '2' model with cast iron fence.

In response to your suggestions, and what was also mentioned by OLD earlier, I have already previously removed the two pins on either side of the tables, but I still found it moved back after adjustment.

I have not, however, tried re-drilling the main table once set, so that will probably be one of the first things I do tomorrow. I think I managed to lose one of the old pins but have kept all the others. Should be okay.

What sort of drill bit did you use and is it a standard size, ie. 6mm?

Thanks very much for this. All going well, I may be able to get my belated competition entry started soon!! :wink: :D
 
Oh, and I also realised I maid a mistake in my original post, which I will not correct... :oops:

It is actually the left side of the table which sits higher than the knives, although, when looking at how parallel it is to the cutter block, as you can see in the photo, the left side is furthest away. It is infact the right side of the table which sits lower down and also closer to the blades.

Sorry about that, everyone. :? :oops:
 
OPJ,

If my memory serves me correct :)
I just used a standard 6mm drill bit. The cast iron is very easy to drill.
the roll pins on mine were 6.5 mm, but I would check first before drilling :) .
 
Just my opinion for what it is worth, but I would at least ask Axminster to send someone out before you start drilling the machine, because if there is a fault with it and they cannot set it up, I think that they are unlikely to take it back and swop it if you have drilled holes in it.

Again just my opinion, but if you have tried to set it up for 4 months and have still been unable to use it, I am sure they will not object to sending an engineer out.

By the way, Charley shows you an excellent way to get rid of rust here

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/content/view/90/47/

Good luck and I hope you get it sorted soon.

EDIT: This is not to say that Proshop's fix is a bad idea, its just that I would get Axmister to try and put it right first

Cheers

Mike
 
The standard guarantee form as used in essence by all major companies would certainly be invalidated by any modifications, this would normally be so even if the MK2 had that mod and you were simply including it in your MK1.

Roy.
 
I would let the engineer from Axminster do it.

If you are a hobby worker the next 2/3 weeks are not going to be much fun in the workshop (unless you have got super duper heating).
 
Till you get it sorted try planing first in the one direction and then in the other. With luck an even number of passes will keep the timber square.

Roy.
 
Don't worry, I haven't started drilling yet! I don't have the nerve right now. :?

I'll see what Axminster can do and how soon they can do it. Don't think their guys will be too happy having to squeeze and creep around in my tiny, freezing garage, with no heating, in the middle of winter - but hey, we'll see how it goes. If someone is doing it and they know what they're doing, it shouldn't take long. :) :wink:

Now all I need is a new chip collector - but I'll leave that for another day. :)

Thanks also for the tip on removing rust, Mike. I came across that link a long time ago and, well, it'd slipped my mind.
 

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