Auger Bits Not Advancing

[J_SAMa]

Well, I don't know if he is drilling through end grain. But FWIW.
Brad point bits do OK in end grain. Not many people have brad point bits that are over 10 mm's though. I drill a pilot hole (say 5 mm's) with a brad point. I then follow with a reshaped spade bit (any cheap old thing will do, an old blunt one is perfect). Grind it to a V point - so the whole end is just like a large letter 'V'. It will follow the pilot hole and cuts a pretty clean hole, fast. I've also used it to good effect after drilling with a shell auger. I even put an extension on the spade bit and drilled through 12" of end grain. Commonly known as making a wooden flute. Of course if you want a flat bottomed hole in end grain you will need to find another solution!

Nope, just into face grain.

 

[bugbear]

While on the topic of end grain, here's some more info - perhaps helping to show why there used to be such a wide variety of bits. These styles were all good for end grain:

If you want an auger style bit, for larger holes, choose a solid auger bit. (The two on the right have had their taper shank cut off by a previous owner.)

Aren't those a bit ... short?

:mrgreen:

BugBear (who loves his local auction house)

 

[AndyT]

Very nice!

I read a description somewhere but can't find it again of how twist augers were made before machine methods came in. The smith would start with a flat bar, heated red hot. With one end secured, he would twist the other, while dripping water onto the just-twisted part to make the twist set, working his way along to the tip. Amazing skill to do that, presumably through clouds of steam, and end up with something even, straight and strong.

 

[J_SAMa]

Here's a picture of the two drill bits. The Jennings pattern is the one that doesn' work. The Irwin pattern actually sharpened up quite well and works OK now.

Sam

 

[Billy Flitch]

Sam when you say the auger wont cut when you take it out is the worm chocked with wood? Thats the sharp threaded bit on the front you call the lead screw.
Sometimes even on new bits the end of the thread on the worm is not neatly formed at the base so the wood that it cuts into can not escape.
Sometimes the base of the worm is wider than the worm its self take a small file and make a way for the wood to escape, while your there sharpen the threads and the point Let us know how you get on, Billy.