Assembling jet 60A planer

[The Bear]

Hi

I need to lift the main body of this onto the stand. Anyone got one and can offer advice on the best way to do it?
By hand?
Engine type hoist (would need to hire one)
If lifting by hand, I know not to lift it from the ends of the beds but is it OK to lift it by getting hold of the beds next to where they meet the central casting as the central casting is going to be really hard to get hold of and lift.
All suggestions greatly accepted
By the way it weighs about 120kg

Mark

 

[head clansman]

hi

high on the main body near the planer block is there two threaded bolt hole so you can screw lifting eyes into these for the said purpose . hc

 

[9fingers]

As an alternative to Martin's method is to use two lengths of timber under the tables and as close as possible to the main body.
Lift between two pairs of hands onto the base.

Good Luck

Bob

 

[The Bear]

Think I will try Bob's method first, as I don't need anything special for that.

Martin, if I need to do as you suggested where do I get such screw in eyes and what size are they?

Thanks to both of you


Mark

 

[wobblycogs]

Note sure this is exactly what you need but if you want to raise the machine up to slide something underneath I'd use a lot of thin chocks and (maybe) a couple of long bits of wood as leavers. Just tip the machine back a tiny bit, slide a chock under and then tilt it the other way and slide a chock in the back. Repeat until it's far enough off the ground to slide something else under. Don't over balence the machine though, it's probably very top heavy. I used this technique to great effect the other week moving my P/T which comes in at about 150kg.

 

[9fingers]

Note sure this is exactly what you need but if you want to raise the machine up to slide something underneath I'd use a lot of thin chocks and (maybe) a couple of long bits of wood as leavers. Just tip the machine back a tiny bit, slide a chock under and then tilt it the other way and slide a chock in the back. Repeat until it's far enough off the ground to slide something else under. Don't over balence the machine though, it's probably very top heavy. I used this technique to great effect the other week moving my P/T which comes in at about 150kg.

This is probably Ok for raising a small amount but this machine will need lifting about 700mm off the deck in order to get it level with the stand.

Bob

 

[wobblycogs]

Ah I see, I thought Mark was just lifting it onto a wheel base or something, didn't realize it came in two parts. Two lenghts of wood and some strong mates sounds like the best plan to me too.

 

[Recky33]

Can you not assemble it as if it was a table saw, ie, bed down then fix stand to it then roll it over, most cast saws come face down when delivered so you can do just that, plus they are a lot heavier as well

Allan

 

[The Bear]

All done using Bobs method
Thanks to all for the suggestions
Was quite easy in the end
Just need to put the rest of it together at the weekend

Mark

 

[Digit]

Just need to put the rest of it together at the weekend

It's not dark yet is it? :lol:

Roy.

 

[The Bear]

Will this run on a 13 amp plug or does it need to be 16 amp. Have both sockets so no probs either way. Can't find the answer in the manual.

Mark

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Mark,

Will this run on a 13 amp plug or does it need to be 16 amp. Have both sockets so no probs either way. Can't find the answer in the manual.

Mark

I put in 16A as I was fitting new electrics. IIRC, it needs 16A.

Thanks,
Neil

 

[9fingers]

I found mine would pop a 13 amp fuse from time to time so like Neil, I was putting in new wiring in the workshop so run it from 16amp commando socket.

Bob

 

[The Bear]

Just been to put the plug on and found that the cable is only about 1 metre long - what a joke. So where can I buy a 16 amp extension cable (which to be fair would be useful anyway), needs to bee about 5 or 6 metres long.
Alternatively would I be better making my own up. Presumably I can get the bits I need at any elec shop. What sort/size of cable do I need?

I have also had a look at the manual today and like others have found with other Jet models, the manual is rubbish. It doesn't tell you what half the knobs and levers do. Have had a look on the Jet website for the US manual but can't see it. More head scratching to come me thinks

Mark

 

[OPJ]

You can buy a 14m length of 230v 16amp extension lead from Toolstation. The image shows the yellow, 110v lead (only 10m long) but, that's probably about as cheap as you're going to get. Unless, perhaps, you can find shorter lengths available elsewhere? It's simple enough to cut it down to length and re-wire the plug or socket on to the other end.

 

[9fingers]

Mark, pm me your email address and I'll send you the US manual.
There are minor differences but heaps better than the UK manual .

Bob

 

[The Bear]

I've just spent the last couple of hours trying to set the blades in the cutter block. Finally done it, ran a test piece and getting snipe on the back end. I set them so that rotating the block moved a piece of wood 3mm.

To me the fact there is snipe at the back end would suggest the blades are too high. The US manual Bob sent me indictaes top dead centre of the blades should be exactly the same as the outfeed table. Now if they are moving a piece of wood 3mm they are very very sligtly higher than that, so should I try and level them with the outfeed table?

Also has anyone who's got one of these removed the springs from under the knives? As far as I can get on they are just a hinderance and of no help whatsoever.

Any thoughts?

Mark

 

[OPJ]

Do not remove the springs! :shock: But, do try reducing the amount of 'drag' to 2mm. In the past, I've also found that 3mm can lead to snipe but, with 2mm of drag, I couldn't complain.

 

[9fingers]

Do not remove the springs! :shock: But, do try reducing the amount of 'drag' to 2mm. In the past, I've also found that 3mm can lead to snipe but, with 2mm of drag, I couldn't complain.

Olly, I can't see the problem with removing the springs. They are a PITA on this machine which has jack screws for setting the blade height.
I don't think I took mine out as I had already set one knife but next time they will all come out to retain balance.

Quite agree about reducing the height a bit though. Mine are set so the testpiece is dragged a minute amount only.

Bob

 

[The Bear]

Right, just had another go.
I have set them so the piece of wood is not moved at all, but, I can hear the knife making contact with the wood as I rotate the cutter block.
That for me is about as close to top dead centre as I will get them.
Ran the next test piece. The snipe has reduced a lot, but is still there. All be it a fraction of a mm deep and about 3/4 inch long.

Should I be happy with this?

Mark