Ash TV table - FINISHED

[woodbloke]

I was thinking about you as I was doing it actually Rob, a whole cabinet veneered, the stress! I just used masking tap and it came off fine and the marks left were gone when I sanded it to 240. It was commercial veneer at 0.6mm and I was thinking about what you were saying about not having to worry about sawing through your slightly thicker home made ones whilst I was doing it and fretting that any second MDF would show through!

The TB3 did the job, I would have just liked to have been able to sort of stick it down by hand before applying final pressure. But the TB is so liquidy which is normally great that the natural curve of the veneer kept lifting up. Came out great in the end so thats all that matters right

I was doing mine though in the AirPress which does make it slightly easier as you don't have to worry about uneven pressure (as you would do if pressing 'twixt boards, which is how I used to do it)
It is a concern with 0.6mm commercial veneers that too much scraping and sanding will go fairly quickly through to the ground. I usually find that a bit of light scraping and then sanding brings up an acceptable surface which is then ready for a finish.
If you were to do any more veneering, I'd suggest making a veneer shoot as it makes jointing the edges easier. I tried the router method (which works if the mdf edge is guaranteed straight) but I now prefer to use the veneer shoot and a nice long plane...the longer, the better.
The main thing is though, that you got a good result and like we've said many times on the forum, there's lots of ways to go about various tasks - Rob

 

[OPJ]

Yeah, that's one of the things I don't like about Titebond glues - they're very runny! It doesn't usually take much for me to make a complete mess with ordinary PVA, either!

If you wanted something with more 'tacky', you could try cascamite, which can be mixed to your desired consistency. But then, you have to be careful not to mix up and waste too much each time... I was using Titebond's Cold Press Veneer glue the other day and that, like all their others, is still very good for making a mess.

To be honest, I don't think PVA is any different at this time of the year. :wink: I won't mention contact adhesive.... :shock:

 

[Richard Findley]

Fantastic WIP mate. Cabinet is looking great =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>

When ordering your wood you always need to allow for 50% wastage I've found, this way you'll have enough... DAMHIKT !!!!!

Cheers

Richard

 

[Chems]

Thanks Richard

Yeah I don't mind going back to much, especially when they will put stuff through the wide belt sander for me

Hoping to be able to declare mission complete tomorrow by fitting the top (dominos I think) and the skirts. I've made the skirts and mitred them with the table saw, just need to draw my arc's and route it out then inlay with the walnut veneer. Also need to decide on some nice handles either made or bought.

 

[Einari Rystykaemmen]

Very nicely done so far! 8)

Keep it up!

 

[Chems]

Thanks ER.

I almost got it finished today, an extra hour would have done it. Hope to get back to it tomorrow afternoon.

I spent hours faffing around with the curved then inlayed skirt, I had one of those I'll do it this way days then realized hours later it was much easier to do it another way so in effect wasted hours. Got the glass beaded in front and back. All thats left to do is screw the skirts on and danish oil the beading on the end panels and it will be ready for lacquer and a new home.

No pictures as not much of interest to show I'm afraid.

 

[JonnyD]

Looking good was just wondering whether you have accounted for seasonal movement in the timber when assembling the carcase as you have a solid timber base which will move across the grain attached to a frame and panel end that wont. A change in humidity or drynes of the timber could result in the base splitting if its dominoed and glued to the framed end panel. This happened to a cabinet i made when i was first starting out and the base opened up along the glue lines of the base as the timber dried out luckily the furniture was for a family member so i got away with it.

cheers

jon

 

[Chems]

I've never had any movement out of the furniture I've made luckily. I made my first TV table the same way 2 an half years ago and its never moved at all.

Fingers crossed this one stays the same!

Out of interest what could I have done to allow for movement in the base?

 

[Chems]

 

[Chems]

 

[Henning]

Great work Chems!

Nice grain and interesting utilizing of it in the design. Especially on the drawer.

Beautiful!

 

[mailee]

Very nice piece there Chems. I do like the contrasting wood on the sides.

 

[Einari Rystykaemmen]

Very nice, Chems!

You gave me some ideas for upcoming cabinet project. I hope you dont mind if I "borrow" some ideas from you..? :wink:

 

[Richard S]

"Nice one Cyril ! " very impressive, nice tidy workmanship. Is this one for home or a client, either way I bet someones happy. Well done

Richard

 

[motownmartin]

Nice job Chems.

 

[softtop]

Very nice clean lines and I like the contrasting materials - thanks for sharing.

 

[OPJ]

Nice one, Chems. You've made a really nice job of it an I'm sure it will be very well received by its new owner. :wink:

If I can be slightly critical... :roll: I would've reduced the curve on the base so that it was a little thicker at the top. I can see why you've done it, though. It does help to lighten the look and it should sit help the unit to sit evenly on any floor!

 

[Chems]

Thanks guys

This went to a client, its great to do something you love for money.

 

[WoodAddict]

Looks great. Nice work chems. I agree about ash. It's a nice looking wood. some of the grain in this project is very nice.

8)

 

[TEO]

It looks great Chems, you've done a excellent job and the WIP's been good to watch.
T