Ash TV table - FINISHED

[Chems]

I think Chestnut Acrylic Lacquer?

 

[rileytoolworks]

Looks really good mate. How're you getting on with the runners?
For a more detailed explanation than the one I gave you (which wouldn't be hard), check the hafele site.
Good luck mate.
Seeing your workshop has made me seriously think about selling off some of my, dare I say, collection, and focus on the essentials.
Well done.
Looking forward to seeing this finished.
P.S. Have you sold the two Shaker tables yet, and if so, where?

Adam.

 

[OPJ]

I like the Domino jig! Do you then fit Dominoes to support the shelves or do Festool produce some special lugs/brackets, designed to fit inside Domino holes?

I agree with your decision to stick with ash for the drawers, by the way. I was only asking to see what you were thinking of doing. :wink: Even if you got a nice piece of maple or sycamore for the sides, the grain would be totally different to the ash and it may not look right.

Is this the job you were hoping to have finished by Wednesday...? :wink:

 

[Chems]

Riley, the tables are at a gallery on the Kingsthorpe road called the Primrose Gallery. I had a play with the drawer runners, its just fun to push them in an see the little piston working! I have downloaded the instructions and will print them off when it comes time to fit them.

With the domino jig, you just fit dominos into the holes. Or you could make your own little shelf supports with dominos in them. The bottom of the shelf will have a half depth, so partially exposed domino that the support will sit in. To see the jig in action I linked a video of it in the jigs section a few weeks ago.

I got a whole pack of ABW veneers for £16 delivered and am going to use them for the drawer base on an MDF/Pine/Ply base which ever is easiest. Also going to use it for the inlayed pieces on the skirting.


Yes I wanted it finished by Wednesday, I set myself a week with the hope that if it overshot I'd still be done in time. My dairy says I have to complete this by tuesday and start on the next order on wednesday. :shock:

 

[OPJ]

I'd veneer the MDF for your drawer base. It's the cheapest of the three but, it's certainly adequate for the job. It'll also be much more stable than pine!

Have fun shooting the edges of those veneers! If you don't already have a plan, woodbloke did a post recently (either here or on his blog - or both!) on doing this with hand plane, using a purpose-made shooting board. You could probably build a very similar jig and trim them with a router but, it all depends on what the grain's doing...

Hopefully all these jobs will pay for your sander and the new workbench!! :wink:

 

[Chems]

Router and bearing guided bit I'm going for. I think I have some MDF that will do.

 

[Chems]

Stack to be T+G:



Got round to putting in the drop box below the router left attachment is router, right is table saw.


I did all of the grooves and tongues using my biscuit bit, much better than a straight bit for this sort of thing. Heres a rare action shot!

 

[Chems]

 

[Chems]

I need more wood. . . . . which is excellent as the guy at goodtimber said I could put a few bits through his drum sander. So I'm going to take the top and one of the shelves with me on tuesday. I only need enough to make the drawer body, I have the base and the front just not the slip!

 

[Chems]

Back on it today. I'm very nearly done, just the skirt to do with some fun arched routing to do. Hopefully the walnut veneer will arrive tomorrow.

I totally cheated and had the top and a few other bits put through the wide belt sander at good timber, I gotta get one of those.

 

[OPJ]

I think you've done a nice bit of grain-matching on the top but, on the sides (ends), I think I may have flipped each of those boards 180°, so that the grain was meeting to form an 'arch' in the middle (almost like a full-width board)... Then again, if the grain doesn't match up properly, it could look odd. Nothing wrong with what you've done, of course, just an opinion.

I like the T&G back panelling.

 

[Chems]

Thanks olly, I think I've still got a lot to learn about grain matching and bits. I saved the best bits for the top. I did want the grain to run a certain way on the end panels so I could plane it without tear out between the boards. I'll have to keep practising

 

[woodbloke]

Thanks olly, I think I've still got a lot to learn about grain matching and bits.

It's always tricky to match the timber to get the right effect...downside is that you can go through a lot of timber to find the right bit, but more often than not it's worth doing. If part of a project has mismatched boards (or even differently coloured boards) it can look distinctly odd.
One of the Krenov books has a particularly good section on this sort of thing as it's something that he was big on - Rob

 

[WoodAddict]

nice solid looking cabinet chems.

Good work

 

[Chems]

 

[OPJ]

Good progress!

How did you do the veneering, then - did you press each panel between two MDF sheets?

Did you get any breakout cross-cutting the panels on your table saw? With a zero-clearance insert plate, I'd guess not... :wink:

 

[Chems]

yeah the MDF panel it was been glued to and another panel. Then a big slab. I don't think TB3 is the best for this kind of work, you need something more tacky from the tube.

I didn't get any cross grain issues, as I was cutting veneer side up the cut was supported by the MDF substrate I guess.

I jointed with just an edge of ply, clamped onto it and then router with bottom bearing guided bit. I tried sandwich between two pieces but It didn't work for some reason.

I fitted the other veneered piece to the bottom shelf of the main cabinet behind the glass door. I need to make some handles too.

 

[woodbloke]

I don't think TB3 is the best for this kind of work.

I've been doing a fair bit of veneering recently with bandsawn stuff and have used TBIII...no problems with it in any way (apart from using a **** of a lot of it :x ) That veneer tape is best removed by scrubbing with a wet nylon scourer and then peeling with a cabinet scraper, if you use the original TBI (the yellow stuff) you'll find that the veneer will bubble and lift not so with TBIII as it's waterproof - Rob

 

[Chems]

I was thinking about you as I was doing it actually Rob, a whole cabinet veneered, the stress! I just used masking tap and it came off fine and the marks left were gone when I sanded it to 240. It was commercial veneer at 0.6mm and I was thinking about what you were saying about not having to worry about sawing through your slightly thicker home made ones whilst I was doing it and fretting that any second MDF would show through!

The TB3 did the job, I would have just liked to have been able to sort of stick it down by hand before applying final pressure. But the TB is so liquidy which is normally great that the natural curve of the veneer kept lifting up. Came out great in the end so thats all that matters right

 

[Chems]