Applying features with router and indexer.

[bobajobob]

Thanks sploo,
Your quite right of course. Bit of a down moment I guess.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I think I might be tempted to just wax that cocobolo - at least anything unwanted could be buffed away. No matter how thin the finish it could always fill the detail and be difficult to remove.

 

[Woodmonkey]

Bob, don't be down heartened by lack of response. Your work is very impressive, please keep posting! If your oil has gone sticky it's because you need to remove (quite vigorously) any excess not long after the initial application. Adding some more oil will act as a thinner so you can remove the excess by rubbing with a rag

 

[woodpig]

Only just seen this update. Very nice work again Bob. I wish I could help with the finishing but it's something I have trouble with myself sometimes. I think this is always going to be a challenge until you finally find the solution that works for your type of work. A popular finish at my club is lemon oil but this leaves a Matt finish. I have to say that I don't much like Danish oil for the reason you've given.

 

[stewart]

ONce again, really impressive work, Bob - and greatly appreciated here too! I've only used cocobolo for pens and used a CA finish (plus a horrific week long inflammation of eyes!) so can't give any experienced views on finishing it. A beautiful wood but I probably won't ever use it again.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

What about a spray? Several very light passes?

 

[bobajobob]

Thanks Guys.
You inspire me to try harder.

Bob

Is that lacquer Phil? Could you suggest a product. (aerosol type)

 

[woodpig]

One finish I did try recently on teak was Renwax straight onto the wood. You could apply it to the fluting with a small stiff brush and then polish off with something like a shoe brush? I chopped down a small brush to apply Renwax to some tools that needed protection and that worked well. It was a cheap nylon artists brush about 6mm dia. You could also perhaps apply this over the top of a light coat of thin oil like Lemon Oil? Just a thought. As said earlier though, best pop over to the finishing section to get some more ideas Bob.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I believe Chestnut melamine has a good reputation, someone else will give you a better answer. (It was an idea - I've not used it) As said, post your question in finishing - we'll still see it but so will the people who are only interested in finishing.

 

[woodpig]

The problem wirh lacquer is that it seems to be best applied in thin coats with sanding between each coat. Sanding those flutes in Bobs work between coats may not be easy.

Another option would be to apply an oil finish and use a buffing wheel to bring it to a shine. These folks can provide everything you need at about half the cost of proprietary "systems".

http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acata ... cquer.html

 

[bobajobob]

Appreciate your suggestions.
Its been a few days since my finishing enquiry and I'm pleased to say the Danish oil has dried to quite a nice finish. It has made the wood considerably darker but that's fine.
Woodpig I think your onto a winner with the buffing idea. I've got some old metal buffing mops that I've cleaned up and trials look promising. Got to get some new ones and
some non-colouring fine cutting compound. That supplier looks good. I think I will make mini mops for my dremel too.

Thanks again guys

Bob

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You can of course thin Danish very well. I've been using Bestwood, which I've found excellent and fairly cheap. It has a high tung oil content, some don't.
http://tungoil.co.uk/shop/bestwood-danish-oil-5-litres/
I shall go for this one next, as I can pass some on to other people.

 

[woodpig]

Thanks for that link Phil. It sounds like pretty good stuff. As I said I've not been a fan of Danish oil as it can go a bit gummy. I may give that Bestwood stuff a try.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You can thin it well. I did some turned bowls that I was careful with as my own bowls have always ended up with a rotten plum or something hidden in the bottom which has left a bad mark, and i found that after several thin coats it was best left a good week or more between coats. If you feel the slightest drag, its still soft. In truth i suspect most finishes are like this.
I picked the Bestwood one up at the club, that's how I came by it. I haven't found any downside to it, and it's cheaper than any of the others I found, especially if you can go splits with others on a larger size. I haven't as yet seen any advantage for interior use using a Finishing Oil as opposed to a Danish Oil, though F.O. in its natural state might be a little thinner. (marketing triumph - selling you more white spirit? ).

 

[woodpig]

What do you thin the Danish oil with Phil?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

White spirit.

 

[Tetsuaiga]

I've only just seen this topic, some really inspiring stuff.

As for finishing, one of my favourites is shellac, haven't really a lot of experience getting finish into grooves. I imagine spraying works well or maybe a very dilute finish ratio so it flows into the grooves.

Would love to what you're jig is, I have an idea what it could be. Hopefully i may get round to making something for myself sometime.

 

[bobajobob]

Made some improvements to the jig and had a stab at a vase.
Learned a few woodwork lessens on this one.
There is a high risk of a c..k-up when doing repeat operations so I used a bit of ash firewood.
Its probably not dry because it was very fluffy after routing. It was also very difficult to sand and I made matters worse by using a water based finish which raised the grain with each coat. There was an inevitable loss of definition on the groove edges.
It looked great off the lathe, even when it was fluffy but I got more indifferent as things progressed. I bet you can all relate to that! Brush painting coarse textured wood is not recommended. I must get some spray finishes. The surface tear was too evident to consider a regular wood finish. It would probably be better to use spiral fluted HSS cutters. The quest continues.

Bob

 

[bobajobob]

Pics for above

 

[woodpig]

Nice work again Bob. If you have suitable collets for your router you could use milling cutters.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue ... s-Uncoated

Ball nosed might be useful as well.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue ... AlN-Coated