Apply ABS edging

[gc]

Hi,

Looking to see how to fit 2mm or 0.4mm ABS edging to MFC boards. From info seen so far it looks like i would need an edge bander, is this so or is there another way it can be done (easier for the diy'er)?

 

[joiner_sim]

how about using contact adhesive. I'd recommend the spray type.

 

[steadyeddie]

A good quality contact adhesive will do the job. Brush it on using a brush just a bit wider than the edging. If it's chipboard you're bonding it to, it might be worth putting a primer coat of adhesive on the chipboard to help adhesion.

Dave

 

[mailee]

Yes contact adhesive works fine. Apply the adhesive as per the instructions and then clamp the edge to press it tight into place. I have been doing this last week for my friends joinery company. HTH. :wink:

 

[JonnyD]

You can also use PU glue to apply the lippings just sand the back with a bit of 80grit first dampen one side apply glue and clamp. I think Ostermann sell a special glue to attach lippings with as well. I've always found that contact adhesive leaves a quite dark and rubbery glue line.

Cheers

Jon

 

[gc]

Thanks for the advise, i will have a look at the options.

How best to trim the edging flush once stuck in place? Do you just use a blade?

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Thanks for the advise, i will have a look at the options.

How best to trim the edging flush once stuck in place? Do you just use a blade?

Virutex do a manual side and end cutters. IIRC, they're about 20 pounds each.

Thanks,
Neil

 

[Lord Kitchener]

It's possible to buy the edgings pre-glued, in fact that is what you need for entry level edge banders. The glue is hot glue and you can use hot air to melt it, then press it into place while it sets (a few seconds). The .4 can be done with an iron too, if you are careful, but 2mm is too thick for the heat to get through to melt the glue without damaging the binding itself.

 

[joiner_sim]

With normal thinner edge banding, it is possible to trim with just a sharp chisel. But you may find a bear guided pencil round or flush router cutter to be much better as its thick 2mm.

 

[gc]

Thanks again for the info. I came across the manual cutters when searching the web earlier, look ideal.

I had a search but could only find the .4 edging pre-glued, do you know if you can get the 2mm pre-glued also?

Would the edging not burn or melt if it was trimmed with a router?

 

[carlb40]

If it doesn't, how about using this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GLUE-FILM-IRO ... 5adcda80c6

Is there a reason you are using the abs edge banding and not real wood veneer rolls?
Such as this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Iron-On-Edgin ... 460cd8dd85

All you need is an iron, a file and a bit of sandpaper

 

[gc]

That looks quite good, have you used this glue film yourself? Works well?

Looking at ABS edging as its a Grey Beige Zebrano MFC board that planning on using and thats what was shown for it to give best finish, only iron on stuff (not even sure it is iron on) i have found is a pre-glued 0.4mm melamine in matching finish to board.

 

[Lord Kitchener]

There's a firm called Ney in Coventry who will pre-glue rolls of edging (including 2mm) to order.

 

[Chrispy]

I don't think you will be able to "iron on" lipping that is 2mm thick because by the time the heat has got through that thickness of plastic the surface will have melted and it would also hold so much heat that the glue would then stay soft to long to grab so that as you moved your iron on the bit that you had just done would just curl up and come away. For this thickness if you want to use pre glued you would need to use a hot air edge bander this heats the glue from the glue side without heating the lipping (very much).

 

[gc]

Will have a look at that firm, thanks.

Dont know why i asked bout 2mm pre-glued as had realised earlier was no good as wouldnt be able 2 use it.

 

[Lord Kitchener]

Will have a look at that firm, thanks.

Dont know why i asked bout 2mm pre-glued as had realised earlier was no good as wouldnt be able 2 use it.

It would be tricky, but by no means impossible. You will just need to get some heat in there (the glue face) with a hot air gun and press the edging into place without burning your fingers.

 

[gc]

Would it be better using pre-glued edging and heating it or just using the contact adhesive as advised earlier, or eash as good as the other?

 

[Lord Kitchener]

Would it be better using pre-glued edging and heating it or just using the contact adhesive as advised earlier, or eash as good as the other?

The hot glue will give a better result.

 

[fluffflinger]

I had to trim and re-edge a couple of MFC kitchen drawers a few years ago. They were 2mm PVC edged, stripped off the existing edging scraped off the old glue and after trimming the drawer fronts I re-attached with laminate edging tape as it was the only thing I had with me on the day.

That was several years ago they are fine and the finish was as good as the rest, no visible glue line whatsoever. Tape was similar to this http://www.axminster.co.uk/unika-heavy-duty-double-sided-5m-tape-prod836479/, actually it was this stuff http://www.topformproducts.com/supa-tape.PDF

Simple job took minutes, I don't offer it as a solution for large quantities but if it's a small job then I can highly recommend the method. All you need is the tape and a sharp blade no heat, no messy contact adhesive and a bullet proof result. Actually I can highly recommend this stuff for a number of jobs I always have a roll around. Trust me this is not to be confused with regular double sided tape, not the same animal at all!!!

Note that Egger (that I assume is the source of the board) don't do 0.4mm edging in every board colour but they do in 2mm.

 

[Lord Kitchener]

That was several years ago they are fine and the finish was as good as the rest, no visible glue line whatsoever. Tape was similar to this http://www.axminster.co.uk/unika-heavy-duty-double-sided-5m-tape-prod836479/, actually it was this stuff http://www.topformproducts.com/supa-tape.PDF

Interesting. I shall have to give that a go.