Anyone turned a lamp?

[Richard Findley]

Hi Guys,

I have a commission to turn a lamp. I know all the threory but wierdly it's something I've never actually made! The question I have is regarding the fittings. Not sure yet whether to get them from Axminster or Turners Retreat but both sell the bulb holder thingy:

But also a range of nipples (the mind bogles :wink: :lol: ) and threaded bits and apparently no explanation.

So what do I need?

Cheers,

Richard

 

[stevebuk]

i know Tom built a nice one some time back, maybe he will be along soon to tell how he did it. :lol:

good luck.

 

[wizer]

Unfortunately I was as confused as you Richard and ended up buying just the 340916 (but I got it from B&Q for much cheaper and in chrome) and ended up epoxying it into the hole. It's been fine so far, but this is obviously not the way your supposed to do it. I could not find solid information about the best way to wire them. I think, next time, I'd use 340916 with 341007. It looks like they screw into each other and then you screw it into the top of the vase.

I also cheated with the boring on mine and laminate the blank out of 4 pieced of wood with the cable channel routed out before glue up.

 

[Bodrighy]

I have a lamp that I made at school on the lathe. It still works and the fittings were the same as 341007 screwed and glued into a small recess with the actual bulb holder screwing onto it.. Only problem I have found is in time (a long time, we are talking of the mid 60's here ) the screws which were tiny worked loose and the glue came unstuck. Modern epoxy would no doubt sort that out. As Tom says you can get these a lot cheaper on the high street than through Axminsters.

The hole through the middle was made with the biggest drill bit I had ever seen and have not seen the like since. Thinking back it was bloody dangerous, a 15 year old kid with a 2 foot drill bit on a spinning lathe. H&S didn't apply in thiose days. Nowadays you can either get a lamp auger or do a variation of Tom's method and split th spindle, gouge out the hole and glue back.

Pete

 

[CHJ]

Richard, just be aware that if you use the brass fittings you must wire them up with 3core flex as they must be earthed for safety.

All the ones I have done have used the stepped sleeve, coarse thread into the wood and fine thread into the holder, must admit I put a dab of epoxy on the wood thread side.

There is more than one holder thread size so watch that you get matching pair.

 

[Richard Findley]

Ah! I think I'm getting it! So.....

you either buy the 610303 which has a coarse thread and screws into the bored hole, the lamp then screws onto the other end or buy a 341007 which screws to the lamp base over the bored hole and the lamp screws on to the end.

It all becomes clear now!!

Any options if the customer wants the lamp fitting raising further above the wooden base?

Wiring is no problem, if I have a problem my Brother-in-law in a sparky :wink: !!

Cheers,

Richard

 

[wizer]

b&poo sell lamp cable in a few different cables. Again, cheaper than the turners suppliers

 

[CHJ]

Any options if the customer wants the lamp fitting raising further above the wooden base?
...

There are threaded tubes available of various lengths, sorry don't have a source to hand at the moment.

Have in the passed used a suitable piece of brass or plastic tube inserted in the wood with the brass threaded sleeve bonded in the end.

 

[cambournepete]

Hi Richard,

You might want to have a look here.

They sell parts, but there's also an interesting paragraph about CE marking...

Cheers,

Pete

 

[TobyB]

I have made a few - the biggest problem I have had is getting the coarse thread of the 610303 element screwed into the wood neatly and straight - holding it without wrecking the threads was some of the problem I've not worked out the best way of handling. I wondered if buying a tap would be the right way to do it? Having said that, if it is a bit out, it doesn't show once the shade is on ... but you know! Ended up preferring to use 341007 type bases - but you then have to design the lamp with a broad enough top to seat these, and enough wood below for the screws. I got a lamp auger with my first lathe - works well, but I learnt by trial and smoky error to slow the lathe speed right down when boring with it!

 

[Oakbear]

Richard, is it a table or a standard lamp?

I've made a few table lamps, and after looking at the cost of individual fittings, have always purchased lamps from either carboots (usually about 20p-£1) or B&Q did one for about £4 (don't know if they still do), which has a metal tube to raise the fitting above the wood, and looks quite nice.

Stripping the parts out is usually strightforward.

If it's a standard, Ikea do an uplighter one for about a fiver, but it won't have screw fittings to join sections, although you could use tenons or chase threads.

 

[Aled Dafis]

I've made a couple using the 610303 fitting, and as Toby mentioned, the biggest problem is screwing the fitting into the wood. If I do any more in the future I'll be investing in a suitable tap.

I'm sure that Craft supplies used to sell a tap to suit this fitting, but I've just been on their website, and they state that "The nipple type fixing is designed to self tap into a 5/16" hole." so I guess that they must have either modified the fitting, or just didn't find that many people bought the tap.

Cheers

Aled

 

[CHJ]

Richard have you seen The Link in the Stikies about selling electrical goods (CE) compliance.

 

[loz]

Do what Wizer said,

On my Prize winning lamp 8) i did the same - 340916 with 341007

As Chas said - you need to connect the earth to 340916 as its brass , and its also wise to add a cable clamp where the wire enters the lamp at tha base to add some "tugging" security.

I have pics of a few finsihed lamps if it helps.

Regs

L

 

[jpt]

HI Richard

My preference for making these is to use 341007 and holder 340916, I have tried the double threaded piece but even with a tap it is very hard to get it in straight. The 341007m fits into a recess created by the counter bore drive and in my opinion is much easiser. The only time I use the double threaded fitting is if the design wont allow for the other plate.

If you fancy a trip along the A47 you are welcome, I have a lot of the fittings and labels needed.

If you want to raise the fitting there are a number of options available like THIS, I have a link to a supplier somewher but cant find it at the moment.

john

 

[Paul.J]

Rich,i have made few lamps now and have used the brass fittings on all of them,earthed.
I just use the 610303 nipple and use a mallet to bang it home in the appropriate sized hole,but screw the lamp holder on to see how straight it is before tapping it fully home.
I tried threading them in but the wood just crumbles.Probably due to the type of wood i was using.

 

[leswoody]

Hi Richard,

Meantime do a ready to use kit of parts, makes it so easy. if you want to discuss anything drop me a line, i used to make lamps on a commercial basis for a well known lighting company.

Regards

les

 

[CHJ]

That looks like a handy sollution les, thanks for the site link, not so sure about the 'gold' cable though myself.

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi everyone,

Thanks a lot for all of your suggestions and thoughts. Gives me something to work with!! I will (of course :wink: ) keep you updated with the job (delivery required before Christmas!!)

I'm going to harrogate this weekend so I will probably have a word with Meantime there (they're usually at these shows) and I'm sure Les will be there so I will catch up with you as well I hope.

I was aware of the rules and regs associated with lamp making and that is why I never really dabbled in them before but for a commission I'm always happy to find out the details and give it a go. Pete's link is very helpful with clear guidence on the "to do" and "not to dos" - thanks Pete! As I said, my Brother-in-law is a sparky so I can get him to Pat Test it (and generally take a look at it) before it goes off to the customer.

Thanks again for all your input! (Keep it coming if you think of any more!!)

Cheers,

Richard