Any tips for getting a good jointed edge on a router table? I'm struggling.
- Thread starter scubadoo
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Pretty much. Those lines may just be there because of the thickness of timber i normally use and the jessem guides pulling it into the fence?
One thing that confuses me is that if i set the cutter so that it is not aligned with the outfeed fence, but closer to the infeed, it deosn't butt up into the edge of the outfeed like i would expect. Instead the board passes through but with a gap between the outfeed fence and the timber.
Maybe I'm just expecting too much precision!
johnnyb
Established Member
it's not that at all. machines made for that very purpose can be really troublesome to set up. so some cod precision router/table/ fence set up has no chance. the stock guides are not all that either. much better to check the set up is straight using a single straight piece of stuff. then add the spacer onto that. then it must be planar.
That's an interesting approach. I think tomorrow i shall check if the fence is perfectly straight without the spacer and then go from there.
Thanks everyone for the thoughts so far.
This is why i keep thinking about that iTech 260 planer/thicknesser!
HOJ
Established Member
I get what @johnnyb is saying, its not a very good solution for doing this type of work.
How straight and long is the piece of wood you are trying to machine in the first place?
You are setting up to basically plane an edge, so the infeed will need to be futher back than the outfeed, (offset) which I presume you are trying to achieve by using the shims on the outfeed fence.
The cutter needs to be bang on with the outfeed, try without all the bolt on's by running a piece of stock over the cutter to a half way point (keeping it tight to the infeed) in its length and stop, (finger's warning) then you will be able to see more clearly if there is a gap or not on the outfeed and adjust it accordingly to eliminate it.
That then begs the question as to how you will do the other edge, if your working to a given width dimension, my advice would be to go into using a back fence, in that case, and would be a better way in the first instance as well, but you will need a straight edge for it to work even if its just a sawn edge.
How straight and long is the piece of wood you are trying to machine in the first place?
You are setting up to basically plane an edge, so the infeed will need to be futher back than the outfeed, (offset) which I presume you are trying to achieve by using the shims on the outfeed fence.
The cutter needs to be bang on with the outfeed, try without all the bolt on's by running a piece of stock over the cutter to a half way point (keeping it tight to the infeed) in its length and stop, (finger's warning) then you will be able to see more clearly if there is a gap or not on the outfeed and adjust it accordingly to eliminate it.
That then begs the question as to how you will do the other edge, if your working to a given width dimension, my advice would be to go into using a back fence, in that case, and would be a better way in the first instance as well, but you will need a straight edge for it to work even if its just a sawn edge.
If you are jointing boards, IMHO the best way to get an absolutely perfectly straight edge is to use a tracksaw. Perfectly straight every time. I realise that's not very helpful if you don't have one....
Henniep
Established Member
Maybe I don't see the wood for the trees. Why use a fence with a cutter fitted with a top bearing?
segovia
Established Member
It depends on how long and deep your boards are, I would try to reverse the process by using a router on a track or if the boards are smallish and thin I would use a shooting board.
It's to set up the fence initially using a steel rule. After the infeed fence is set the trick is to advance a piece of wood by a few cms and plane the edge. Use your shims like a feeler gauge to set up the outfeed fence. Inevitably you won't have a shim that gives a snug fit in the gap - I use a pack of playing cards for this. I have a Jessem setup and I am sorry I didn't buy their TA fence which allows you to dial in the offset.
Recky33
Established Member
Mrrouter
New member
Not sure if you have sorted this. Your out feed fence should be in line with the cutter and your infeed fence should be set slightly back, this is your depth of cut . The out feed fence on a jointer is always slightly higher than the indeed
John Brown
Freeloading Social media influenza
I'm no expert, but that sounds to me like the infeed is not parallel to the outfeed.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I think as @John Brown says, maybe my infeed and outfeed are not fully aligned so I'm going to spend some time checking that.
I do have a tracksaw so can joint that way but setting 90deg on the Festool TS55 is a bit fussy and I assumed that this would be a more accurate way but am seeing that it too is a bit tricky to set up.
Before i had a router table i just used to stick a straight edge down and and rout along that. maybe i should just do that and run the straight edge against the bearing on the bit in the router table.
The board I'm working on is just over 90cm. A very nice piece of flamed maple. I've got it where i need it to be for now with a little bit of handplaning. Thanks everyone.
I do have a tracksaw so can joint that way but setting 90deg on the Festool TS55 is a bit fussy and I assumed that this would be a more accurate way but am seeing that it too is a bit tricky to set up.
Before i had a router table i just used to stick a straight edge down and and rout along that. maybe i should just do that and run the straight edge against the bearing on the bit in the router table.
The board I'm working on is just over 90cm. A very nice piece of flamed maple. I've got it where i need it to be for now with a little bit of handplaning. Thanks everyone.
Citracal
Established Member
This is the right answer.
I get a perfect ' invisible line ' joint straight off the table saw. ( a DeWalt 746 ) I set the blade to exactly 90 degrees to the table with a digital inclinometer . Not all saws are created equal but with a bit of fettling it can be done.
Yojevol
Clocking on
No need to worry about the angle. Just saw/plane one board face up and the other board face down and the not-quite-right-rightangle will cancel itself out.
Brian
Hornbeam
Established Member
There is no doubt you can get a good joint straight from a planer/circular saw/tracksaw etc, but it does also depend upon on what timber you are using, For a soft porous timber I would say that is OK. For a really hard tropical timber or hard maple, I would always hand plane. Hand planing also allows you to plane a slightly concave joint line. minimising risk of joints failing at the end
Henniep
Established Member
Thanks for your explanation - appreciated.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
Looks to me like you are trying to work a hefty piece of hardwood with a very lightweight bit of kit and getting it out perfectly would be more a matter of luck than anything.
Even with a heavy machine you'd expect to match join edges with a plane.
Even with a heavy machine you'd expect to match join edges with a plane.
