Any cyclists here?

[ByronBlack]

I'm going to be shopping for a new bike soon after selling some crap on ebay, and wondered if there were any cycle enthusiasts who can could give me a few tips on what to look for?

I have currently an old Ammaco 5000 (was given to me in return for a favor) which I refurbished today and took for a spin, let's just say it confirmed that I need a new bike, it was horrendous!

I went over to Decathlon this morning and liked the look of some of their bikes, basically, I'm after a hybrid as I'll mostly be on paths, tracks and the very occasional rough ground, but very occasionally if at all on most cycles.

I have about £250 to spend - are there specific brands, gearing or other features that I should look for?

 

[Ironballs]

I've been known to do the odd bit of biking....

Firstly I would up your budget by about 200 quid, that will allow you to get a frame that isn't made out of boat anchors and also allows some higher spec components to be added, the key ones being disc brakes and reasonable suspension forks.

Not a big fan of hybrids as they tend to be compromises and don't one thing or the other too well, but may be a good fit for what you want. Certainly if you want a wider choice then go for a MTB and have a good look at Specialised and Cube

 

[StevieB]

Yup, just got myself a new specialized sirrus and am doing a 50 mile cycle ride on Sunday

First thing you need to decide is what you think you mean by hybrid. This is a huge range between drop bar carbon race bikes at one end and full on double suspension at the other. Anything in between will be called a hybrid by someone! From your description I would say you want something without suspension (you are not off-roading) and probably with knobbly tyres - the more lumpy the paths the more knobbly the tyres. The reason for avoiding suspension is also because it puts effort into going up and down rather than along. Thus if you will mainly ride on roads you want to go for the road bike end of hybrid, if you want to ride on lumpy paths or stones/mud you want the mountain bike end.

Not sure how far your budget will go, but two reputable makes will be Trek http://www.trekbikes.com and specialized http://www.specialized.com I would look there to start with but if they are too expensive then SOME of the halfords range are OK but they have an awful reputation for set-up, you will want to check it over yourself. The Chris Boardman hybrids sold only through Halfords are superb http://www.boardmanbikes.com.

Your best bet, rather than go to a department store such as Decathlon or Halfords would be to find a local bike shop and have a chat with them. Evans Cycles have branches in alot of places also and know their stuff. Finally, you can also ask at http://www.cyclechat.co.uk or have a search of their forums, they have some good info and advice there.

Steve.

 

[jasonB]

The cheaper end bikes do tend to be a bit on the heavy side so spending a bit more will make it lighter and the components are likely to be better quality.

You don't really need suspension, I was riding rigid forks on my mountain bike several years before Rockshocks were invented. If you do want the comfort then just go for front forks, a fully suspended bike in the lower price bracket will be a downhill lookalike which will have high bars and a low seat which don't make for a comfy or efficient riding position.

As you seem not to be doing much road riding then a mountain bike will give you more choice, just fit some less aggresive tyres to get the rolling resistance down a bit.

Jason

 

[ByronBlack]

Hey chaps, thanks for the quick replies!

Damian - I wish I could up my budget, but unfortunatly it's all I can spare, but I intend to find a bike that I can upgrade in the future as and when my requirements demand it.

The one I'm looking at currently is the Rockrider 5.2 it weighs just under 14kg - is that very heavy? They class is it as a sport MTB - only front-suspension.

I'm not sure I even want suspension. I bought a giant bike a few years back with all the suspenesion sold to me by my local shop. I hated it, it felt like i was cycling through thick treacle

The rockrider has pre-load adjustment on its front-shock, so I'm assuming it can be stiffened up to provide a bit more 'feel'?

Stevie, when I say hyrbid, I just mean something that can handle a track or light trail and have the ability to swap over the tires for road cycling down the line..

Thanks for the links so far, I'll extend my research.. how do I size a bike?

 

[stookie]

I am a ex pro down hill moutain biker i would try the internet for old model bikes ie trek, kona , gaint,garyfisher,cannondale,GT, depending where u live an other option is wilson poilce auctions , i just paid £200 for a clock work orange bike RRP£1600. most hardtail bikes at the moment are not all that bad as long as you dont buy a motor crosser without the engine aviod kiddy on disc brakes and front and rear suspension bikes .

 

[Night Train]

Try this forum, Cycle Chat.
I'm a member there too and it is a really friendly place. They will give you some good advice.

 

[Dave S]

I have the Trek 7200 (but the 2004 model). My riding is mostly road, towpath, flatish woodland trail, that kind of thing, and I find the bike ideal.

Sounds like your needs are similar, so if you can find something like this within your budget, I reckon you'd be sorted.

Secondhand might be an option if you know what you are looking at - but buy something that needs some work and it could quickly blow your budget.

Dave

 

[StevieB]

These days you cannot size a bike without sitting on it. Frame geometry varies radically with make and style and you simply cannot say 58cm is what I need for example. You should also try a test ride if at all possible, even if its only round a carpark.

Regarding upgrading, if you only have £250 to spend then I wouldnt even think of upgrading at a later date - the frame you get will not be worth upgrading. You can change tyres to suit the riding you are doing, but thats about it. Much better off saving and getting a second more expensive bike than lashing out cash on a dud frame.

As a general rule of thumb anything over £400 will be a bike that is for some serious miles, much under this is a bike for recreation only. Anything from about £800 is serious kit and only a dedicated rider will notice the difference in performance as you go above this level - for the average person you are likely to be the limiting factor, not the bike. A bit like festool will not make you a better woodworker, but a B&Q special will limit you.

Steve.

 

[ByronBlack]

Dave - I'll make a note of that bike and see what the shops have.

Steve - fair point about the upgrading, the main reason I mentioned that was that the rockrider has facilities to upgrade to disc brakes - not sure if that is worth it or not?

I would love to extend my budget and go for a £400 bike, but its just not possible at this time, so I wil take on board all the advice and try out a few bikes in my buget and find one that feels the best.

I was looking at the boardman hardtail mountain bikes in halfords earlier today and they looked very nice, just a shame its out of bugdet.

In terms of miles, its doubtful i'll be doing more than 30 a week.

 

[Ironballs]

Steve is right, you really do need to go and try one out for size - but if you do, make sure you buy it from that shop and don't go and buy off the net. Good bike shops are like good tool dealers, a valuable and scarce resource operating in a tough market.

I have 3 bikes, 2 full sus 1 hardtail and each has very different geometry and riding positions, I ride each one for different circumstances, bit like how you use a plane.

Stookie - who are you and who did you use to ride for and when? Bloke I worked with until recently was the brother of Tracy Moseley, sadly he was a roadie, no hope for him :wink:

And before any smart alec comments, I used to work with him until recently, he hasn't recently un-become her brother

 

[StevieB]

Disc brakes are a mountain bike phenomenon that are coming more and more onto hybrid bikes. While their stopping power is good, they are more complicated to run, particularly if they are the hydraulic type (although in your budget that will not be a problem). Personally I have always shied away from them, but then I have tended to go for the more road oriented bikes. I switched from a Trek road bike to the Specialized Sirrus Comp for a slightly more upright flat bar riding style. Having said that, the first thing I did when I got it was flip the head stem to a 15 degree down angle from its setup upward angle

Any bike will do you 30 miles a week, and if its mainly flat paths/roads then you will be fine. Cycling is like woodworking - shiny things cost alot of money! Does your place of work subscribe to one of the cycle schemes? This is a system whereby you get the tax off and pay for the bike through your salary in 12 monthly installments. Worth checking if you have a big employer, as its a good benefit to take advantage of.

Steve.

 

[ByronBlack]

Steve, unfortunatly I work for a tight-arsed small company with zero benefits (not even a pension scheme).

I see what you mean about shiny things -- just looking on the various websites and the stores today makes me want to bust the budget and go for an expensive all singing one, but it would be overkill.

I'm off to the local shops tomorrow, so hopefully i'll find something suitable.

 

[TrimTheKing]

BB

I am by no means an expert, in fact I'm a biking *****, but I went to Evans in Manchester when me and the missus wanted bikes last summer and after talking to the guys in there came away with a KONA Smoke. It is a hybrid, no suspension, decent gearing and a saddle that in now way resembles a razor blade

HTH

Cheers

Mark

 

[Ironballs]

Steve - try some discs, the stopping power is awesome and they have tremendous feel, not affected by wet and they require far less maintenance than V brakes. I used to hate setting up Vs every time the pads needed replacing, you get stronger wheels and your wheels last longer as you're not abrading the rim every time you brake.

I was a major sceptic until I tried them but am now a big convert. And they erm, still work even when there is no pad material left - Mary Townley Loop, July 07, non-stop rain, mental scars still healing

Colin - have a good think about what you want from the bike and what you might want in the future, bikes are like tools, buy cheap and buy twice, but if you only want a knock about circular saw you use 4 times a year then buy cheap. If your bike is only going to do simple things and will often be in a garage then buy a cheaper one

 

[woodbloke]

BB - I'm no expert but I went for a hybrid Trek7.5FX, ali framed, Bontrager kit including wheels with kevlar slicks (not superslicks though), full mudguards:

essential if you ride all through the year as I do. All my riding is on the roads so knobblies of any sort are a waste of time for me. I've got mine fitted out with a rack and a pair of Altura panniers. It's now my preferred form of transport in town (much quicker than the car) and just a tad easier to park up than the Landy. Pic taken in Switzerland in 07 at Lake Lausanne...don't forget the Hiviz gear at helmet (not a Tilly hat ) and bike clips, best worn back to front don't tuck trousers into socks...very uncool - Rob

 

[ByronBlack]

Hi Rob, thanks for the tips, I used to always tuck my trouser into my socks But then I was a teenager and could somewhat get away with it..

I'm about to leave for the bike shop, so fingers crossed, i'll be bringing home a new shiny object

 

[matt]

Just in case you get back without purchase...

I second the Sirrus (from Specialized). My wife has one which I use too, in addition to my full susp Specialized.

I don't ride as much these days but used to mountain bike almost every weekend throughout the summer (yes, I'm a fair weather cyclist).

It's worth bearing in mind that steel frames benefit from a small amount of flex in the frame giving some suspension to the ride without having to use suspension etc (i.e. cheap steel will be better than cheap alu with suspension - the latter will weigh a lot more). However... The Sirrus is alu without suspension forks and it's fine.

 

[ByronBlack]

Well, I got one .. two actually, the mrs' managed to get a decent bike.

I went to my local bikeshop, I thought it would be good to see a range of manufacturers rather than relying just on the decathlon or halfords own range.

I was a little surprised, I got a lot more bike for my money than I was expecting. I went in with a budget of £250 expecting something basic like the decathlon range, but managed to get a good deal on a better bike.

I bought this:

A diamondback Sorrento. I haggled him down to £260 - they rrp for £349 so I'm pleased with the deal as its only just over my budget. Here are the specs:

- Hydroformed 6061 heat-treated alluminium frame
- Suntour adjustable front shock
- Shimano alivio derailluers and gears
- quick shift gear and brake levers
- 8 speed hub
- disc brakes all round
- Sram crankset
- quick release all round
- A seat that should be a medieval torture device (will be replaced soon).

The mrs was originally looking for something cheap, around the £150 mark, but the bikes were horrible. So, she went for this:

A claud butler Ravana, also 8 speed, front disc brake, adjustable shock, and a very comfy seat.. We got £20 knocked of that, for a final price of £199.

We took them for a quick blast around the block when we got home before it started chucking it down with rain, and I have to say it's a world of difference to the crappy bikes i've had before.

The gear change is smooth, the front-shock is nice and firm and doesn't nose-dive when standing on the pedals, the frame geometry is really comfortable and it's feels nice and light and responsive. Just need to change the seat and I'm sorted!

Thanks everyone for your tips and advice, it's much appreciated. Just got to wait for it to stop raining!

 

[Night Train]

Well done on getting the bikes and supporting yout local bike shop. Now get over to Cycle Chat and talk about lycra and shaving your legs. :wink: