Another Wadkin Woe

[AdeB]

Hi, this is my first time posting, so please be kind!
I’ve fallen into the Old Iron trap and purchased a AGS10 after looking for several years on and off. It unfortunately was shy of a few bits but was local.
Thing is within 3 months I’d bought a second one!!!

Here my issue the rip fence rear clamp is broken and I wondered if it’s possible to find a replacement piece?
I have looked but seem to be rarer than honest politicians!

Attached pics might help with identification.

Any help will be much appreciated.

 

[mwinfrance]

Welding by a blacksmith who does repairs on agricultural gear and then some careful dremelling with tungsten burr grinder.

 

[AdeB]

Thanks mwinfrance, I did look at the welding grinding swearing re welding grinding route but there is a sizeable piece missing.
Alterantive option is to recreate out of mild steel and bird spatter( my welding style) but want to replace it if a spare piece is available.

Cheers for responding

 

[mwinfrance]

Best welding fix ( given missing part, which doesn't seem that bad would be IMO Tig it ) and then as you say commence the grinding, swearing , grinding part. to avoid "bird spatter" if you are stick welding mild steel, use thicker metal and up your amps a bit, maybe even reverse the polarity, some rods ( even if they don't say so ) work better with polarity reversed. If you try the repair of the original bits yourself ( unadvisable unless you are experienced ), you'll need to get the bits hot ( red ) before "sticking", and held very precisely and tightly other wise they'll misalign.Then a couple of "spots" to hold them, re-heat , more "spots" repeat, repeat, "fill" between the "spots".Or take to good blacksmith, or welder who repairs "blocks", a "quote" is free.

 

[Spectric]

Cast iron, pre heat - weld and then keep some heat on it and then leave it to cool very slow otherwise you could be chasing cracks . With TIG the preheat is even more important as the welding heat is so localised.

 

[Fitzroy]

As you say there is a big piece missing. Also when you lock the fence part 7 traps the fence bar against the lower hook of part 8, which has snapped off, i'd be a little wary of a weld there even if you had the hook part to re-attach. I have the same saw with this fence design (early fence) I'm happy to take any measurements/photos you want me to of the part intact.

 

[AdeB]

Best welding fix ( given missing part, which doesn't seem that bad would be IMO Tig it ) and then as you say commence the grinding, swearing , grinding part. to avoid "bird spatter" if you are stick welding mild steel, use thicker metal and up your amps a bit, maybe even reverse the polarity, some rods ( even if they don't say so ) work better with polarity reversed. If you try the repair of the original bits yourself ( unadvisable unless you are experienced ), you'll need to get the bits hot ( red ) before "sticking", and held very precisely and tightly other wise they'll misalign.Then a couple of "spots" to hold them, re-heat , more "spots" repeat, repeat, "fill" between the "spots".Or take to good blacksmith, or welder who repairs "blocks", a "quote" is free.

Thanks, sounds way out of my scope of abilities, but again thanks for the detailed reply. If I have to go the weld route it will involve paying a professional.

 

[AdeB]

As you say there is a big piece missing. Also when you lock the fence part 7 traps the fence bar against the lower hook of part 8, which has snapped off, i'd be a little wary of a weld there even if you had the hook part to re-attach. I have the same saw with this fence design (early fence) I'm happy to take any measurements/photos you want me to of the part intact.
View attachment 156728

Thanks Fitzroy, any photos and measurement you can provide would be very welcome. I’m guessing that I’m going to have to manufacture a piece myself. I might post the process to give people a laugh.

 

[AdeB]

So here is my prototype. It’s not pretty but I’m hoping it will do the job or at least be close enough for me to fettle it.
It is larger on purpose to give strength.
It’s made from 6.5mm thick 60mm wide stock I had lying around. I “stuck” it together using Kende 150 mig I bought (and rebuilt, that’s another story!!).
I thickened the plate with weld beads as appropriate.

 

[AdeB]

It’s only my third time welding a proper project. ( thank goodness for grinders ) Any constructive criticism welcome.

 

[SammyQ]

As the owner of a similarly afflicted AGS10, "Well Done Mucker!" I'm presently using an Axminster Biesemeyer clone, but it lacks the gravitas of my busted original fence.

 

[AdeB]

Thanks SammyQ, I feel your pain. I’ll post more as the rebuild continues.

 

[Fitzroy]

What a terrible forum acquaintance I am, forgot to get you photos and measurements that I promised! Any use still or has the time passed?

 

[AdeB]

No Dramas Fitzroy, I might still need them if this “masterpiece” doesn’t work!

 

[deema]

I have a complete Wadkin AGS fence that I’m happy to sell as a whole unit or bits off it. It’s in original condition, ie a bit battered, but the castings are solid and whole. Message if you’re interested and I will post photos of what you want come up with a price.

 

[AdeB]

I have a complete Wadkin AGS fence that I’m happy to sell as a whole unit or bits off it. It’s in original condition, ie a bit battered, but the castings are solid and whole. Message if you’re interested and I will post photos of what you want come up with a price.

Hi Deema,
Definitely interested my friend,
No idea what that would be worth. .

 

[cemannion]

I have a complete Wadkin AGS fence that I’m happy to sell as a whole unit or bits off it. It’s in original condition, ie a bit battered, but the castings are solid and whole. Message if you’re interested and I will post photos of what you want come up with a price.

Hi Deema, what size AGS? where abouts are you?