Angle grinder wood sanding disc

[Grantx]

Hi all. This is my first post here. I am a tool jig and die maker by trade and am looking forward to engaging with the community here whilst trying my hand at carpentry.
My first question on this forum is that I have seen a lot of videos of people using angle grinders to quickly clean wood. Is there a preferred attachment or abrasive disc to use on my Makita or is it simply one of those flap discs that people use?

 

[Nelsun]

It depends what sort of cleaning you're wanting to do. Flap discs will sand smooth, wire cups and wheels (they're fairly aggressive unless you can find ones with finer wire) will clear debris and remove softer material between the grain for example.

3M do some good "bristle" discs in 3 different grits which are pretty good and last longer than flap disks. They work more like a wire wheel than a flap disc. Manor wood on YouTube has a review of them if you can find it and Amazon (just search "3m bristle disc") will be more than happy to sell them to you.

 

[kinverkid]

You can buy 50mm, 75mm and 100mm hook and loop discs that screw directly onto a grinder or extension bar. They take corresponding sanding discs of various grits. I've only ever used them for wood turning when sanding particularly 'dodgy' live edge items and don't want my hands near the spinning piece. They will shift lots of wood very quickly and I would certainly advise using the 'dead-man' trigger type grinder rather than the permanently on or off 'push-switch' type. Sorry I don't know the correct terms for them.

 

[Trainee neophyte]

I have a sneaking suspicion you are talking about the wood carving attachments. These range from scarey to insanely dangerous, but do remove a lot of wood very quickly. Things with chainsaw teeth on the edge, plane blades etc, all spinning at 3,000 rpm out in the open. Arbortech Tools | Woodcarving tools from Arbortech | with free UK delivery would be a big name for this sort of thing. Stumpy Nubs did a nice video on how he tried to cut his hand off with one of these, and why it happened -

 

[Nelsun]

Here's the ManorWood video I was thinking of. He covers a pretty broad selection of different discs and what to expect from each kind (the 3M ones start at 7:45):

 

[Grantx]

Thanks for the suggestions. I tried the wire brush that I use for cleaning metal and it works a treat! I thought it might get clogged with sawdust but it stays perfectly clean.

 

[Nelsun]

One tip cut down on dust is to mist the surface. This makes the dust clump and not disperse so widely but said clumps can clog up a disc quicker. I wouldn't do it for flap discs but it does make an odds with brushes and wire wheels.

 

[David bonner]

Find the best to fit the grinder and use them providing theytake the output of you’re grinder Ok.

 

[TheUnicorn]

I use 40 and 80 grit flap discs, for crude quick sanding and I'm very happy with them most of the time. On a whim I soaked and scrubbed one that had got completely clogged with sawdust, worked suprisingly well, at least doubled the life of the disc

 

[Grantx]

What did you soak them in?

I use 40 and 80 grit flap discs, for crude quick sanding and I'm very happy with them most of the time. On a whim I soaked and scrubbed one that had got completely clogged with sawdust, worked suprisingly well, at least doubled the life of the disc

 

[TheUnicorn]

What did you soak them in?

Just hot water and fairy, I probably didn't need to soak, could have just scrubbed, but it would have taken longer (not counting soaking time). Obviously it all needs to be dry before you use it so soaking for half an hour isn't really an issue in terms of timing

 

[Grantx]

Just hot water and fairy, I probably didn't need to soak, could have just scrubbed, but it would have taken longer (not counting soaking time). Obviously it all needs to be dry before you use it so soaking for half an hour isn't really an issue in terms of timing

I was using the orbital today which started getting choked so I brushed the sanding disc with a wire brush I use for cleaning welds. Took a few seconds and it was good as new.
Maybe try that on the flap discs next time and see how it goes?

 

[TheUnicorn]

I was using the orbital today which started getting choked so I brushed the sanding disc with a wire brush I use for cleaning welds. Took a few seconds and it was good as new.
Maybe try that on the flap discs next time and see how it goes?

I like the idea of a few seconds rather a few days, did you spin the grinder on the wire brush, or just do it static?

 

[kinverkid]

On disc/belt cleaning. If you ever have a bottle of wine with one of those plastic type corks instead of a natural cork stopper you can use it to clean either - while they are running of course. I only buy wine with a cork stopper because I find the metal ring left behind with a screw top can cut my lips. Ha!

 

[Grantx]

I like the idea of a few seconds rather a few days, did you spin the grinder on the wire brush, or just do it static?

Simply brushed the pad while the machines was off. Quick and easy

 

[Keith 66]

I first came across the angle grinder used to shape wood & fibreglass back in the late 70's at Thames Marine's Canvey island boat factory, everyone had an air powered 115mm angle grinder with 36 or 40 grit fibre backed sanding discs. We didnt use flap wheels as they are better suited to grinding welds & metal finishing. The "Canvey plane" as it was known was used for everything, rebating bulkheads trimming joinery & fitting trims, Surprisingly accurate in skilled hands. I was the only bloke in the factory who possessed a real hand plane! I dont like using them today as too much uncontrollable dust.

 

[Fergie 307]

You can buy 50mm, 75mm and 100mm hook and loop discs that screw directly onto a grinder or extension bar. They take corresponding sanding discs of various grits. I've only ever used them for wood turning when sanding particularly 'dodgy' live edge items and don't want my hands near the spinning piece. They will shift lots of wood very quickly and I would certainly advise using the 'dead-man' trigger type grinder rather than the permanently on or off 'push-switch' type. Sorry I don't know the correct terms for them.

The trick I use on a metal lathe for finishing with emery or wet and dry is to stick a strip of the abrasive to an old flat belt, or the flat side of a car timing belt. That way you can pass it across the work from a safe distance.

 

[kinverkid]

The trick I use on a metal lathe for finishing with emery or wet and dry is to stick a strip of the abrasive to an old flat belt, or the flat side of a car timing belt. That way you can pass it across the work from a safe distance.

That has me thinking. I bet you could load the rough side of a leather belt with buffing wax as a polishing abrasive. A strop to the work piece rather than the other way around as you would with a blade. I can't test it on a metal lathe (I don't have one) but I try to think of it next time I'm polishing a ferrule.

 

[Grantx]

The trick I use on a metal lathe for finishing with emery or wet and dry is to stick a strip of the abrasive to an old flat belt, or the flat side of a car timing belt. That way you can pass it across the work from a safe distance.

I used this technique for press fit pieces or final polishing metal. Tear a long piece of sandpaper and keep your hands away. Sometimes the sandpaper gets caught in the chuck or something and its an instant ball wrapped around the piece. I can't imagine if the rubber gets caught though.... You would have a nice red stripe down the front of your face or a few if you're not fast enough.

 

[Fergie 307]

I used this technique for press fit pieces or final polishing metal. Tear a long piece of sandpaper and keep your hands away. Sometimes the sandpaper gets caught in the chuck or something and its an instant ball wrapped around the piece. I can't imagine if the rubber gets caught though.... You would have a nice red stripe down the front of your face or a few if you're not fast enough.

The trick is to cut the belt so it's one long strip. When using it just hold the ends gently between your fingertips. The belt is rigid enough to keep the abrasive flat on the work, and very unlikely to get caught, certainly never happened to me. If it did get caught its just going to slip from between your fingertips and end up going flat flap around with the work, leaving you standing a safe distance away.