Advice requested: veneering with glue film

[johnbs]

I'm about to attempt to veneer a couple of small speaker cabinets* which have been left unfinshed for nearly five decades! They're made of good quality half-inch birch ply, and I've glued some 1/8th inch thick teak edging onto the front face which surrounds the grill. I've never used EVA glue film before; it's paper-backed, and I assume it's best to apply to the speaker first, then iron on the veneer? Shoud the ply be sealed or just left? (sanded). Any other tips?
Many thanks
John
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114164522233
*BBC LS3/5A

 

[TRITON]

Yeah, film on, veneer over the top and its at that point you apply a warm iron. Not very hot, but not lukewarm, so kind of in the middle.
You'll need to for best practice use some brown paper over the veneer to prevent scorching.

A light sanding with something like 180 grit will give it a better surface to key on.

Just noticed the paper backed bit so i cant say my above technique is correct. Ive used iron on glue before but it came without a backing paper so maybe check you tube and see if theres better instructions on there
Maybe with paper backed you iron on over the paper to get the glue to stick to the substrate first, then peel off the paper, apply veneer and iron over that, though i would say using brown paper over the veneer is how it should be done.

Didn't it come with instructions ?.

 

[johnbs]

Yeah, film on, veneer over the top and its at that point you apply a warm iron. Not very hot, but not lukewarm, so kind of in the middle.
You'll need to for best practice use some brown paper over the veneer to prevent scorching.

A light sanding with something like 180 grit will give it a better surface to key on.

Just noticed the paper backed bit so i cant say my above technique is correct. Ive used iron on glue before but it came without a backing paper so maybe check you tube and see if theres better instructions on there
Maybe with paper backed you iron on over the paper to get the glue to stick to the substrate first, then peel off the paper, apply veneer and iron over that, though i would say using brown paper over the veneer is how it should be done.

Didn't it come with instructions ?.

Yes, on the advert it says pretty much what you've said: iron onto substrate with paper, cool, remove paper, iron veneer with brown paper. I just wanted to hear from someone who's actually done it / tips etc and suceeded!

 

[TRITON]

You can actually also achieve the same thing using pva.

You paint on glue, plenty of it and allow to dry. Once dry you place veneer over the top, bit of brown paper, hotish iron and press it on. The heat reactivates the dried glue and it cools pretty quick leaving the veneer well stuck. Just with the iron apply plenty of pressure. Dont kee it too long on the one area, this causes scorching so move it about. You know if its sticking or not

I used this technique veneering curves. Job was cone shaped and i was very surprised it worked so well. I've the piece here at home and made that 18 years ago and its still solid as a rock.
I reckon the heat works well on the veneer to help shape it to the curve. Although that one it was a burr veneer, but i think standard veneers would be manipulated by heat equally well.

 

[M_Chavez]

Same works for titebond.
Apply a thin/moderate layer of classic titebond on both sides, give it the minimum time it needs to surface dry, then press together and run a veneering iron over it.
Simples.

 

[XTiffy]

The only film glue I have used is rolled with a silicon(?) film that you use as the ironing surface. I used it on a a pair of very large doors, that would have been impossible to veneer with normal methods (each door was 10 ft x 6ft). The kind of stupid challenge that we take on and regret (until the job is finished!)

 

[recipio]

I gave up on glue film as the stuff simply refused to melt properly. It was backed with a heat resistant plastic sheet rather than paper so your veneer will hopefully go down properly. Cranking up the heat was not the answer as it caused scorching and shrinking of glue lines.
Contact adhesive will work for flat areas but should be the gel type rather than the standard rubber based type which can leave bumpy bits under the veneer. Best of luck.

 

[XTiffy]

The advantage of glue film or even hide (scotch) glue is that they are reversible or repairable. As it undoubtedly works, maybe failures have been down to a faulty batch.
With contact glue if you get it wrong you are stuck with it (no pun intended!). I have used contact glue many times but only for plastic sheeting (Formica etc.).

 

[Hornbeam]

I tried glue film many years ago and never had good results. As your speakers are already built, your options are more limited I would use a scotch glue but it can get messy. But it does all clean up easily and is reversible