Advice on wood planes please!

[rocksteadyeddy]

I have decided now having a few old stanley planes that are either refurbished or in line to be, that I would like to get a wooden one to see the difference.

I would like an older one that is ideally cheep and can be cleaned up/fettled?

So what I'm after is some pointers as to what`s a good make, what to look out for, or any tips please as I don`t have a clue when it comes to "woodies"! :roll:

ideally I`m thinking of something jack sort of size.

many thanks Edd.

 

[big soft moose]

suimmat like this i reckon

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT

the one at the top isd a jack/smoother while the others are moulding planes, not essential but handy if you dont have a router

 

[woodbloke]

The best place to start is with wooden jack, normally you can pick these up for around a fiver or much less at boot fairs...try and get one that hasn't had the living crap beaten out of it and look for timber in the plane body that's quarter sawn if possible.
Clean up inevitable crud with pure turps or furniture reviver and 0000 grade wire wool and then re-oil with some boiled linseed or finishing oil. The sole can be trued by up-ending in the vice with the iron in place below the surface and then taking a few fine cuts with a longer soled metal plane like a No6. The iron ought to have plenty of 'meat' left on it and will need to be reground at 25 deg and then honed at 30 deg ...try and ensure that there's not too much pitting on the back, which can take forever to get out. Ensure also that the chipbreaker is seating well on the iron (there should be no gaps at the mating edge when it's screwed down tight to the blade), adjust as required on a fine diamond or oil stone. If it's a very old plane it may well need to be re-mouthed...not difficult.
If all this sounds beyond you...contact our very own Phily and get hold a new one :wink: - Rob

 

[AndyT]

Top tip when you have found your jack plane (which will be about 14 inches long btw) is to hold it right. The right hand is obvious, but if planing a surface you should have the left thumb towards you, fingers on the far side. This avoids wrist ache. Rest the palm flatter than shown if you need to bear down on the wood.

The pictures show a longer try plane / jointer but the principle is the same.

For edge planing, put your left thumb on top and let your fingers go underneath as a guide.

Some good text and pictures here:

http://chestofbooks.com/home-improvement/woodworking/Our-Workshop/How-To-Use-The-Tools-Part-5.html[/img]

 

[Digit]

And welcome to the woody owners club, we'll have you making your soon! :lol:

Roy.

 

[rocksteadyeddy]

Many thanks for info,but what I was wondering is, is there if you like "sort after older makes" that say have better irons or are better made? Like for example the older type stanleys being of better quality? or is it just a case of pick one that looks ok and pot luck.

try and get one that hasn't had the living crap beaten out of it and look for timber in the plane body that's quarter sawn if possible.

Am I right in thinking if the body is "quarter sawn", would that mean all the grain would be very tight and straight and easily identifiable? :-k

Sorry to be a pain but as I said I really don't know when it comes to woodies!

Thanks again

Edd

 

[AndyT]

If you're looking for a Jack, as you say, I think branding is going to be pretty well irrelevant. You need to find one which is in decent condition - Jack planes came in for some pretty hard use, and for a first buy you don't want something worn out, even if it is possible to restore surprisingly far gone cases.

So look for a body that is straight, reasonably undamaged and flat when you put a straightedge along the bottom (no need to be too strict about this). Reject anything too twisted, split, worm eaten or otherwise damaged.

The blade should be a double iron - ie a cutting part with a cap screwed on. It should be thick and heavy. You will probably be able to see that the bottom inch or so will be hard steel (to keep an edge) welded to a softer iron body (for strength) so make sure there is a decent amount of steel left. You are more likely to see a brand name on the blade than on the body - anything from Sheffield will be fine. Common names include Ward and Payne, Ibbotson, Sorby, Mathieson and Marples. A good sign will be that the top of the blade and the wedge have not been carelessly bashed and abused.

Remember that the Jack was used for taking fairly heavy shavings to get wood down to the right size, not to make it perfectly smooth.

But as you are likely to be spending only a few quid, you can easily buy more than one.

To sum up: something like this one of Baggy's should do you fine:

- from this thread:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post503330.html?highlight=#503330

- but he might have sold it by now!

 

[aesmith]

Many thanks for info,but what I was wondering is, is there if you like "sort after older makes" that say have better irons or are better made? Like for example the older type stanleys being of better quality? or is it just a case of pick one that looks ok and pot luck

I'd look for one with a recognised brand on the iron, Mathesion, Marples, or something (hopefully others can chip in with their favourites) Having said that I think the iron condition is important. A neglected plane could have an iron so pitted that it would take a lifetime to get it prepared.

 

[woodbloke]

try and get one that hasn't had the living crap beaten out of it and look for timber in the plane body that's quarter sawn if possible.

Am I right in thinking if the body is "quarter sawn", would that mean all the grain would be very tight and straight and easily identifiable? :-k

Edd

This is one that I picked up at Penny Farthing Tools for £8 (I know...I wuz robbed!) last Christmas:

These planes were made by a variety of makers in their thousands (in fact Emir used to make them brand new until very recently) The main thing is to look for a decent one.

The end grain growth rings are almost parallel to the top of the plane...so it's been made from quarter-sawn stock and ought to remain true. The front surface is also clear of depressions caused by the overenthusiastic use of a big hammer to adjust the blade...don't forget that it days of yore these jacks were 'used and abused' by their owners so it's worth keeping a look out for a decent one and paying a little extra if you see one. This example has been turned into convex soled plane for dishing a seat on a stool recently made - Rob

 

[rocksteadyeddy]

Thanks for the pointers Rob, I hate to say it but I bought one off the "Ebay" last night :roll: , couldn`t resist and it was only £5 +p&p for one that looks very simular to yours (from what I can see!) + a smaller one (although it apparently has a bit of woodworm ) But they way I see it at least I can have a proper look at one and a bit of a play, you never know I can always buy another one! :wink: ......... Oh dear that slope is getting rather slippy!

when it arrives I take a couple of pics.

Cheers again Edd.

 

[Benchwayze]

Top tip when you have found your jack plane (which will be about 14 inches long btw) is to hold it right. The right hand is obvious, but if planing a surface you should have the left thumb towards you, fingers on the far side. This avoids wrist ache. Rest the palm flatter than shown if you need to bear down on the wood.

The pictures show a longer try plane / jointer but the principle is the same.

Now I know why I have arthritis in my left wrist and thumb! That's a contortionist's grip if ever I saw one... :lol: :lol: :lol:
John

PS ... Eddy. Rob's advice is sound. Also, if there's a name stamped in the plane, (previous owners) don't remove, but add your own. Just a little thing that's always been done. Good Luck.
John

 

[woodbloke]

Top tip when you have found your jack plane (which will be about 14 inches long btw) is to hold it right. The right hand is obvious, but if planing a surface you should have the left thumb towards you, fingers on the far side. This avoids wrist ache. Rest the palm flatter than shown if you need to bear down on the wood.

The pictures show a longer try plane / jointer but the principle is the same.

Now I know why I have arthritis in my left wrist and thumb! That's a contortionist's grip if ever I saw one... :lol: :lol: :lol:
John


John

What you can't see in the pic is that the user would have had a waiscoat on with collar and tie. And probably a big flat hat as well :lol: - Rob

 

[Benchwayze]

As per a picture in the book in my avatar Rob!
Except that is a left handed worker.. :wink:

 

[selly]

Can you recommend some nice blades for wood planes?

I've got a coffin smoother and a jack with both badly pitted blades and would like to try them with good blades.

Think they'll get more use then

 

[selly]

Can you recommend some nice blades for wood planes?

I've got a coffin smoother and a jack with both badly pitted blades and would like to try them with good blades.

Think they'll get more use then

 

[Benchwayze]

Can you recommend some nice blades for wood planes?

I've got a coffin smoother and a jack with both badly pitted blades and would like to try them with good blades.

Think they'll get more use then

Selly,

Before you give up on the blades, soak them in vinegar overnight.
Or use:

http://liquideng.co.uk/content/view/29/

Then see what you have. That's my advice, before you spend money on new blades, just to discover whther or not you like wooden planes. (You probably will mind.. :wink: )


Hope this helps.

John

 

[rocksteadyeddy]

Ok so it turned up in the post today..... Here it is.....

As far as I can tell it looks fairly sound although could someone please tell me how to get the blade out!

A couple of pics incase someone can give me some info?

A close up of the blade.... well as much as you can see as I can`t get it out

The underside is in a bit of a state with some 1-2mm score line at the front, would it be possible or indeed a good idea to flatten out the sole and remove these marks using sandpaper on glass?

So there you go I`ve given it a bit of a clean but should have more time to spare at the weekend, so what should I be doing and where to next?

Many thanks Edd.

 

[Digit]

Just for once it seems that you have acquired a woody that hasn't had the iron beaten into submission Edd. The first requirement is for a suitable Mallet, not a hammer!
Unless the iron is rusted into place striking the heel of the body should free it. Older irons are tapered, thicker at the cutting edge than at the top so a judicial tap with the mallet on the top of the iron may also help.
If you intend keeping and using this plane making or buying a small mallet is well worthwhile as you will need it for setting the iron for use.
If you attempt to remove the scores from the sole be advised that this will widen the mouth.

Roy.

 

[rocksteadyeddy]

So just to clarify, I don`t need to try and "knock out the wedge" I simply tap the plane on the "heel" (back?) and the blade should free?
It seems prety well in there, I think I`m a bit confused sorry? :-k

Edd

 

[Digit]

That Edd is one of the beauties of woodys, they hold the iron very securely.
If the iron is rusted into place then, as I suggested you may have to to do more the strike the heel, but once cleaned up this is the manner in which the iron is adjusted.
Tapping the iron sideways may also help if rust has eaten into it, the only time the wedge is normally struck is after sharpening the iron so as to bed the iron into place.
You strike the heel to cause the iron to retract and strike the toe to advance it, it does work, trust me!
Setting a woody is a pice of cake, once you know how!

Roy.