Advice on wood planes please!

[Jacob]

Strike the heel as has been said. Most woodies (large and small) have the heel rounded off so it will take a few bashes from a mallet without being damaged.
I've got a "Salmen" or two too. More or less identical to Marples of the same vintage (1940 or later). Typical school plane.
I wouldn't bother about the scratches except to make the bottom flat (i.e. co-planar, not the same as "smooth"). They won't affect performance.

NB the "heel" is the corner between the back end and the top faces.

 

[AndyT]

It looks like you have the twin of the plane described in this thread:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=42797

 

[bugbear]

It looks like you have the twin of the plane described in this thread:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=42797

Did you mean this?

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post505200.html

BugBear

 

[AndyT]

It looks like you have the twin of the plane described in this thread:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=42797

Did you mean this?

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post505200.html

BugBear

Oops!

Yes I did, thanks BB.

 

[bugbear]

Ok so it turned up in the post today..... Here it is.....

That looks fine. Despite the rust at the top of the blade (where it's exposed to the atmosphere) I suspect the "business end" will be fine.

To remove the blade/wedge;

There's normally a little side-to-side slack on the wedge. Try knocking it from the left with the heel of your hand. If it moves at all (over to the right), knock it back to the left. Repeat this, and the blade will easily be removed (be patient). You might consider using a mallet for the knocking, but DON'T over do it.

If there's no side to side slack in the wedge, you might consider (if you're patient) simply leaving the plane in a dry place - tight wedges are normally caused by damp.

If everything seems SUPER tight, use a hammer to tap the blade DOWNWARDS. Don't try to remove the blade this way, you're only aiming the free the "lock". As soon as the blade moves, stop hammering, and revert to plan (A) above.

If none of this works, grip the wedge in the jaws of your vice, and use a mallet to drive the plane off the wedge.

The sole of your plane looks fine - scratches don't matter (being badly out of flat matters, but we'll come to that later).

There MAY be a line of corrosion where the cap-iron touches the blade - this can act act a shavings/dust/moisture trap, if left long enough. If this has happened, and the pitting is deep, I'd simply grind the end of the blade back (being careful to avoid buggering the temper).

BugBear

 

[rocksteadyeddy]

Many thanks everyone I shall try and have another go at getting the blade out later if I get the time, I`m keen to give the blade a sharpen and see what it`s like!
would the be any harm in giving the rest of the plane a light rub down with fine sandpaper?

Edd

 

[Digit]

No problem but you might find the SP clogs rapidly as woodys are normally soaked with Linseed Oil.

Roy.

 

[rocksteadyeddy]

Well I managed to get the blade out! On quick inspection the blade seems good, will give it a sharpen tomorrow.
What bevel is recommended out of interest?

Thanks again Edd

 

[woodbloke]

Well I managed to get the blade out! On quick inspection the blade seems good, will give it a sharpen tomorrow.
What bevel is recommended out of interest?

Thanks again Edd

25deg primary ground bevel, 30 deg honed bevel...keep it simple - Rob

 

[NickUrquhart]

Just as a tip it might be good when you're removing the wedge to apply pressure to the side of the wedge and wiggle it side to side. I use this method everyday and it is far better than knocking the hell out of the poor old stock.

The Salmen was one of the very last commercially offered wood planes and being brutally honest, they are pretty bad by the standards of 19th century planemaking. Some of the last 'lightly coloured' Marples should also be avoided, because the apprentice benchhand and manager had to finish the last batch and they are almost unusable, because of poorly cut and finished ramp/wedges.

I would add that advancing the iron shouldn't involve hitting the body either. Just insert the blade with it near to taking the cut, and tap in the wedge with the smallest hammer you have. Note that you need to make an allowance for the blade advancing when the wedge tightens against it, so you learn to set it a little extra backed off so that it finishes close to where you want it. It shouldn't need much at all, so whatever you do don't use any significant force or you'll risk cracking the butments or cheeks.

When the iron is close to taking a cut, for the first few times, resist the temptation to hurry it along and tap the top of the iron very very lightly(light enough to tap a beer glass). Each time you tap the iron, give the wedge a light tap to make sure it is still tight and pass the plane over a bit of flat scrap until you get a bite. Test the bite on each side of the mouth, if the cut is too great on one side, tap the iron from the side, which will obviously back off one side and increase the non biting side. As you already know, if you need to back off the iron, give the back of the plane a light tap on its heel and then give the wedge a tap to keep it tight. You get a feel for how and where you need to tap pretty quickly.

Hope that helps and brilliant to see someone trying these undervalued tools. cheers, Nick.