Advice on finishing this shoe rack

[benjamino613]

So I am close to finishing my first actual woodworking project This shoerack made of Sapele and Ash:



1. Try to imagine the top shelp affixed to the underside of the top frame (not just resting on top) and ignore the fact that I took a photo of the back, more unsightly side. It also needs cutting to final length.

2. What finish would work well for this? I would like on oil finish to help the sapele 'pop' preferably wallet freindly and beginner freindly.

3. Would sanding to 180 grit be sufficient or do I need to go to 240 (or higher)? This may change based on what finish i guess?

4. Toying with the idea of staining / dyeing the ash frame black, any ideas for an easy black dye that would work well?

Cheers!

 

[benjamino613]

Would any basic finish work for these species or is there something i should be watching out for?

 

[Dugarry]

While I am no expert on finishes, I have had experience with oiled finishes.

As far as I am aware, there aren't any reasons why sapele or ash would give you any issues applying an oil finish.

I'm not particularly up to date with what is or isn't wallet friendly, but Danish oil is always available at a lot of places. I've had no problems using it, I usually go for three coats. You can lightly cut back between coats for a smoother finish. I just pour a blob on, spread it with a rag and then go over with a cleaner rag to remove the excess, wait for it to dry, cut back, apply another coat, repeat until happy.

Just be very careful with oily rags, they really can self ignite. I usually drench them in water, then put the on the washing line as flat as I can until they are dry. Just avoid leaving them crumpled up anywhere.

I wouldn't think you need to go more than 180 grit.

Alas, while dark stained ash does look good, I've not got any real experience with stains, so hopefully someone else will chime in there.

I'm also a little jealous you're working with sapele, I love the way it smells. Reminds me of college, made all my projects from sapele there.

 

[imageel]

I'd recommend tung oil, pretty cheap and easy to apply. Dependant upon source and air temperature it can be quite viscous out the tin, however I always apply one or 2 coats thinned 50/50 with turps or similar as this helps the oil to soak into the wood, especially on the end-grain, and then when it has dried -usually overnight I apply the finishing coats with a small piece of rag used as a rubber. If you apply too thick a coat in one go it will take a long time to dry and may well go sticky en-route and I find if this has happened then I wipe down with a turps moistened cloth and let it dry overnight and start again.
You can adjust the level of sheen by adjusting the number of coats and by the amount of buffing you do.
I actually love the smell of the oil, which does disappear after a week or so, but some may not!
It is also non-toxic so safe to use on bowls or utensils intended for food prep or as tableware.
Only thing to be aware of is the fact that this oil dries by oxidation, so be super careful with disposal of any oil soaked rags or cloths since there have been numerous incidents of them self-combusting. This is easily avoided by soaking them in water before binning them!
Ed

 

[benjamino613]

While I am no expert on finishes, I have had experience with oiled finishes.

As far as I am aware, there aren't any reasons why sapele or ash would give you any issues applying an oil finish.

I'm not particularly up to date with what is or isn't wallet friendly, but Danish oil is always available at a lot of places. I've had no problems using it, I usually go for three coats. You can lightly cut back between coats for a smoother finish. I just pour a blob on, spread it with a rag and then go over with a cleaner rag to remove the excess, wait for it to dry, cut back, apply another coat, repeat until happy.

Just be very careful with oily rags, they really can self ignite. I usually drench them in water, then put the on the washing line as flat as I can until they are dry. Just avoid leaving them crumpled up anywhere.

I wouldn't think you need to go more than 180 grit.

Alas, while dark stained ash does look good, I've not got any real experience with stains, so hopefully someone else will chime in there.

I'm also a little jealous you're working with sapele, I love the way it smells. Reminds me of college, made all my projects from sapele there.

Thanks for the advice!

I was actually leaning to Danish oil too as it seems to be a good all round option.

Love the smell of sapele and the look. It does seem to get a turned up nose in some circles as a 'cheap' or poor mans mahogany but its sure good enough for me

 

[benjamino613]

I'd recommend tung oil, pretty cheap and easy to apply. Dependant upon source and air temperature it can be quite viscous out the tin, however I always apply one or 2 coats thinned 50/50 with turps or similar as this helps the oil to soak into the wood, especially on the end-grain, and then when it has dried -usually overnight I apply the finishing coats with a small piece of rag used as a rubber. If you apply too thick a coat in one go it will take a long time to dry and may well go sticky en-route and I find if this has happened then I wipe down with a turps moistened cloth and let it dry overnight and start again.
You can adjust the level of sheen by adjusting the number of coats and by the amount of buffing you do.
I actually love the smell of the oil, which does disappear after a week or so, but some may not!
It is also non-toxic so safe to use on bowls or utensils intended for food prep or as tableware.
Only thing to be aware of is the fact that this oil dries by oxidation, so be super careful with disposal of any oil soaked rags or cloths since there have been numerous incidents of them self-combusting. This is easily avoided by soaking them in water before binning them!
Ed

thanks ed