Adding a worktop to a B+D workmate 800

[CarlT]

Hello all - this is my first ever post!

Q. Any idea how deep should I drill the pilot holes to attach a 2x4 to the underside of a kitchen worktop 38mm thick?

The coach screws I am using are M10 stainless, (5mm pilot, right?), I never used them before , I have a Wolfcraft drill guide, and don't want to drill thru the top laminate if I can help it! Or get a non-flat surface from the screwtip

pressing up.

I have been inspired to do this by a Marty Backe video on Youtube called "Tricked out Black and Decker workmate".

I'm using a B+D Workmate 800 that's been sat outside for about 10 years and the plywood tops aren't flat anymore.

I got the worktop from Ikea, its a Saljan custom length 1060mm will give about 160mm overhang each side. "Aluminium effect" laminate.

(Drilled 10mm clearance holes in 2x4 and sunk the heads already)



Some pics of work so far below

 

[MikeG.]

Welcome Carl.

Forget the worktop. Use your Workmate to build yourself a proper bench. A worktop on a Workmate will always be a flimsy wobbly pain in the neck.

 

[Lons]

What Mike said.

I have 3 workmates one of which is outside and seized solid and they are good for taking out on site but far too unstable for much else. I made new tops for one of them with reclaimed 30mm thick mahogany when the ply started to fall apart..

 

[Fitzroy]

Ignoring if this is a good idea. I expect the worktop is a chipboard type material at its core. A workbench takes a pounding and I’m not convinced the fixing would be secure enough from underneath. I would fix from the top, through to the 4x2. The bite of the screw will be in real wood and a good sized washer will spread the load up above. You’ll obviously need to recess the top bolt hole.
F.

 

[TheUnicorn]

I agree with fitzroy, structurally it is going to be better to screw top down going into solid wood. However, if that doesn't suit your needs (ie you want a smooth top) I'd look to put the tip of the screw about two thirds or maybe three quarters of the way through the worktop. Also i'd make sure that you give the worktop plenty of support when you screw into it, to avoid the screwtip bubbling the surface. I would seal everywhere that you can see wood fibres with pva to protect from the effects of moisture. If you can I would replace the wood tops of the workmate too, the more level they are the more secure your laminate worktop will be. I use an old, simple A frame workmate, I find it much better than the more modern ones. I use it to mount my mitre saw (for quick cuts only, I have a bigger setup for more accurate cuts) which is mounted on a scrap of heavy ply and clamps in place on a batten of wood. I also have a bench bull which i clamp in the workmate jaws. A good quality workbench is going to be preferable but a workmate is a quick go to for any number of jobs.