Accoya wood

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Slinger

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Plymouth
Last Sunday I read an interesting newspaper article about Accoya wood, it seems to tick a lot of boxes for me. Does anyone have any experience with it and where can it be sourced and most importantly, is it expensive?
Cheers,
Slinger
 
I got some of the first Accoya which was imported into the country by BSW Timber for a job for them. It starts off life as radiata pine in New Zealand and is quite a fast growing tree. Maybe that's why it can absorb the acetic acid well. It is very stable as some of it I have had in the house for about 6 or so years has remained dead flat (no gaps under the edge of a steel ruler) which is impressive for pine. Smells a wee bit vinegary but if you are painting it that's ok. Supposed to have a shelf life of a least 40 years outside - which hasn't been measured yet as it has been around that long.
 
We've converted to using it for the majority of our joinery. We used to use iroko but got fed up with packs of bent, buckled, bowed, twisted timber. Athough accoya is expensive -similar to oak in price, its consistency saves a great deal of time. It is not without its own issues: soft, somewhat brittle and its high acetic acid content means stainless steel fixings are important.

It is available in solid form now so no need for finger joints. I wouldnt want to stain it though, it looks crap!

Robin
 
We have been using this timber for about four or five years now, and we can't praise it highly enough. As far as I know it still comes with a fifty year unconditional guarantee, and don't forget that this is in the bare wood with no finish. although it is fairly new to the market, they started working on the process in 1927, so I'm sure they must have field trials going back to that date. I have heard they are going to be putting the guarantee time up to 70 years. It may not be the hardest of timbers, but I would say it is harder than general softwoods. I can't say as I have found it to be particularly brittle ether. Knots, and shakes are very few and far between. Although most of our joinery receives a painted finish, we have on a couple of occasions finished it with sadolins, and compared to normal softwoods we felt it looked a lot more attractive. It is sold in three grades, but don't be put off the 3rd grade as we have not noticed a great deal of difference to grade 1 and it's cheaper :D . Stainless steel fittings are ideal, but just like oak if there is no moisture present there is no problem. Brass is fine as well. We also love the fact that it is about the most environmentally friendly timber you can use
 
There is also an MDF version axe by medite I believe. Apparently it's used for external doors panels (painted) but has many many other uses externally
 
Grahamshed":2l20yaj3 said:
So how readily available is this stuff ? I have never seen it at my local timber merchant.
Our local stockist is James Latham at Leicester. As far as I know there are four or five other merchants in the uk who stock Accoya
Cheers, Richard
 
We use Tricoya quite a lot, about £95.00+vat for 18mm and £45 for 9mm.

Uses: fielded panels, orangery fascias, external detailing such as capital blocks.

Problem: it is only very subtly different in looks to normal mdf. Ive had to resort to putting a small piece in a jug of water to check before using! It hardly swells at all, about 0.1mm after a few hours

Robin
 
Many thanks to everyone for their replies. I have read a report on Accoya by TRADA, which seems favourable.
Slinger
 
I'd love to have a sheet of it to mess about with, or even some offcuts. As it stands im better off digging through the hardwood dog end rack. 100 quid for an 8 by 4 is just too much :(

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
 
Very good stuff, have to adopt special practices, as said no corrosive fittings/screws/pins, stain blocking primer, cant use cascamite/pva glues. You need a certificate from accys for the guarantee, and also from teknos for the 12 year coatings guarantee....

Just installed the jounery for a new build, with freshly laid floors and plasterd walls..... The inside is dripping wet and there all still working exactly as int he workshop. No other timber would be, guaranteed. I love it.

£100 for 8x4 x18.... It seems expensive, but price up jointing hardwood over that same volume/sizes.... Not so bad then! Plus the added bonus of no problems down the line.
 
Some additional feedback to the thread from our end...

Accoya is lightweight which is great for handling larger projects or when machining up large sections. It does dent with the slightest of knocks but sands and prepares easily. In general it is a very forgiving timber to work. It is important to use the correct glues, PVA is not recommended so we use PU...epoxy is an option too.

Although expensive the pay offs in other benefits, as mentioned, are well balanced. Especially for piece of mind on moving joinery projects such as sash windows and doors...no more returning to 'ease and adjust' :D

The Accoya website has lots of useful product info including technical data sheets.

http://www.accoya.com/

Arnold Laver is our nearest and preferred stockist in Leeds.

Cheers Jim
 
I've just used some accoya for a window, but I pinned (and glued) some of the internal beeding on with steel pins, mainly to hold while the glue cured. But I now realise my pins were steel rather than stainless, and I'm wondering if anyone knows the consequences of their corrosion. I drove the heads a few mm in and filled the holes, and the whole thing will have two layers of good quality primer and top coat, will rust show through eventually? I'm hoping not! There could still be time to replace the beeding but it would get messy....
 
Dokkodo":r7jdcm6y said:
I've just used some accoya for a window, but I pinned (and glued) some of the internal beeding on with steel pins, mainly to hold while the glue cured. But I now realise my pins were steel rather than stainless, and I'm wondering if anyone knows the consequences of their corrosion. I drove the heads a few mm in and filled the holes, and the whole thing will have two layers of good quality primer and top coat, will rust show through eventually? I'm hoping not! There could still be time to replace the beeding but it would get messy....

I was told there is only a problem with corrosion when moisture is present so if it's internal beading you might be okay.

I keep meaning to put a few steel screws and pins in some Accoya and leave it outside to see what happens, you have prompted me to get on and do it this afternoon.

Doug
 
I left an offcut of accoya outside for a few months with a zinc plated steel screw in it.

After a few months rust appeared on the screw and stained the timber. Also although the screw top didnt go all the way through to the other side a rust stain did appear on that side.

However I could easily unscrew it and the screw itself still had its full shape and thread depth but the coating had gone and all the screw was a bit rusty.

I also put an offcut of 9mm tricoya mdf in water. After 24hours it had swollen by 0.2mm
 
Doug71":3vooawf8 said:
I was told there is only a problem with corrosion when moisture is present so if it's internal beading you might be okay.

I keep meaning to put a few steel screws and pins in some Accoya and leave it outside to see what happens, you have prompted me to get on and do it this afternoon.

Doug

I hope youre right, though the thing should be very well sealed so i reckon it will be ok. Id be interested to hear the results of your tests...
 
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