A simple garden chainsaw mill

[Walney Col]

Julian. Can I suggest that you do some research on Sketchup before embarrassing yourself further?

I am not embarassed. I'm not putting out ridiculous drawings exhibiting delusional claims of accuracy and resolution. 299.3mm for heaven's sake! What kind of idiotic, innumerate rubbish is that?

If you had just an ounce of imagination and forethough you'd realise that that particular dimension is reliant on how far the back rail was raised and could just have easily read anywhere between 0 and 309mm or even seeing as it's you just plain "7" in line with your IQ.

You'll no doubt be happy to know I've amended the plans now so that even you are in with a chance of understanding them.

If you don't like 309mm just give me a shout and I'll make it any size you like.

Col.

 

[doorframe]

This thread just shows what a waste of time it is to put your ideas 'out there'.

Whether an idea is good or bad, sensible or silly, safe or dangerous, there's always some one who's been there, seen it, done it, got the T shirt, knows better than you, is a legend in their own tea break, and who's voice is muffled by his trousers, that feels the need to criticise just for the sake of criticism.

Go for it WC.

 

[Water-Mark]

At the risk of being bombarded with buns dare i make an on topic point/question?.

I've got no experience with electric chainsaws so this may be irrelevant but will it ballance ok?.

I only ask as i know a petrol saw would want to tip the nose in the air if balanced without additional support at the tip.
I hope i'm not coming across as a nay sayer, i really want this to work.

Awesome drawings though, not sure how much building i'd get done if i could do that.

 

[monkeybiter]

I think in suggesting any variation you are proving a complete lack of intelligence and failed attempt at humour, you may be promptly set upon by a pack of hounds for your lack of deference. :wink: :twisted:

This thread is much better than the anticipated Sound of Music or even a Sharpening Wars re-run. Prod prod. :twisted:

 

[Walney Col]

At the risk of being bombarded with buns dare i make an on topic point/question?.

I've got no experience with electric chainsaws so this may be irrelevant but will it ballance ok?.

The short answer is that until I try it I don't really know. Certainly the weight of the saw over the back of the bench would want to tip the end up the blade up... but the action of cutting the wood would have exactly the opposite effect... i.e. a distinct tendency to pull the saw towards the wood which would in turn tip the end of the blade down. Hopefully the two opposing forces would at least approximately cancel each other.

Col.

 

[Water-Mark]

One of these somewhere?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/32159303 ... 108&ff19=0

 

[Walney Col]

I don't think that'd be necessary Mark. Let's say for argument's sake that the weight of the saw hanging off the back makes the blade tilt up by 3 degrees... none of the cuts wouldn be parallel to the top of the "seat" - but so long as every cut is tilted at the same 3 degree angle the boards coming off will still all be parallel which is what's most required.

 

[Graham Orm]

This thread just shows what a waste of time it is to put your ideas 'out there'.

Whether an idea is good or bad, sensible or silly, safe or dangerous, there's always some one who's been there, seen it, done it, got the T shirt, knows better than you, is a legend in their own tea break, and who's voice is muffled by his trousers, that feels the need to criticise just for the sake of criticism.

Go for it WC.

Always the case with a forum, but as long as it's civil you can always take something from it. Sadly there will always be troll's who, from the safety of their keyboard attack for their own entertainment.

 

[paulm]

The design should work okay I think.

I have a commercially made small alaskan mill attachment for my chainsaws and they are really quite simple, just metal tube framework and a bracket or two for adjustment, nothing much to them really, just act as a guide to run on a flat surface, so no magic or rocket science involved.

The saw itself should work okay but may be a bit slow cutting due to small teeth size on the chain and limited power, but if kept sharp, filed rip if you like, it should get there after a while.

Good luck and looking forwards to seeing some video

Cheers, Paul

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I'll add my ten-penneth. You should definitely ignore the nay sayers and definitely allow real world use to guide any mods you make to what is simply a prototype. The concept of the prototype is of course extremely tried and tested. No idea for anything of value was ever finished at "version 1" so my advice is make it, test it, refine it based on how it works under stress.

Constructive criticism of design ideas is useful if the intent is to genuinely help you avoid making costly or time consuming errors. Sniping out of spite or just plain insulting says a lot more about flaws in the authors personality than it does about any design on the table!

I for one will be genuinely interested to see how it turns out.

 

[DiscoStu]

Let me first start by saying I know nothing about chainsaws or ripping logs like this. So feel free to call me an *****!

Just from looking at the drawing I have some questions / concerns

Won't the chainsaw vibrate? This would lead to wobble in the cut.

The base of the unit is 1800mm long and you said you wanted to cut logs that were 4ft long, so surely you need a base that is more than double that length otherwise you be having to manually support and feed the log in and out. So I think you'd want at least 9ft base.

Lastly and I can't believe I'm the only one who thinks this, what about safety. How do you feed the log in? What happens about kickback? With a chainsaw you have a handle on the top that stops the saw if it kicks back. If you get kickback what happens? The force has to go somewhere, I can see it twisting the bar and the chain flying off. To me the idea is massively dangerous.

If it's only for 6 logs a year can you just get your local timber mill to do it for you, or just buy the wood in?

I can't help but think that someone is going to lose a limb etc.

 

[paulm]

Think you've misunderstood the fundamentals Stu !

The log stays static and the saw runs along the rail.

You still use the top handle to help push the saw into the wood so in the event of kickback (unlikely in this situation) would still operate the chain brake, and the operator is not standing in line with the bar and chain in any event.

Cheers, Paul

 

[DiscoStu]

Think you've misunderstood the fundamentals Stu !

It certainly won't be the first time!

It makes a lot more sense to me now and seems a lot safer!

That explains why nobody else was concerned about safety!

So based on my new knowledge, I'd say that the rail it runs along will need to be sufficiently deep and wide to provide good stability. I would be concerned about it being made out of wood and left outside all year as it will want to slide smoothly. I'm sure sanding a good hardwood and oiling / waxing could sort that.

 

[Rhossydd]

the operator is not standing in line with the bar and chain in any event.

They would be. It could rotate if one of the securing bolts failed and would strike at leg level.
It seems rather bold of an "elderly gent in pretty poor health" to start chainsawing with a rig like this.
The whole idea looks dangerous to me. I wouldn't stand within ten feet of it in action and would have 999 on speed dial.
The problem with chain saws is that you don't have minor accidents with them.

 

[paulm]

the operator is not standing in line with the bar and chain in any event.

They would be. It could rotate if one of the securing bolts failed and would strike at leg level.
It seems rather bold of an "elderly gent in pretty poor health" to start chainsawing with a rig like this.
The whole idea looks dangerous to me. I wouldn't stand within ten feet of it in action and would have 999 on speed dial.
The problem with chain saws is that you don't have minor accidents with them.

It would be used the same way I use my alaskan mill, right hand on the top handle, left hand on the main handle and throttle, using mainly the right hand to push the saw into the wood.

In the unlikely event a securing bolt failed (how could it ?), the saw wouldn't go anywhere as you're still holding it fully with two hands, and in any event the chain brake would still operate if needed.

I'm all for caution and safety, but don't actually see any issues with safety here. Maybe it's just that I have used an alaskan mill quite a bit in the past so have a bit more knowledge and confidence in them.

Cheers, Paul

 

[Water-Mark]

Another experienced chainsaw operator here and i don't see the safetey issues either.
Kick back occurs when the nose of the bar contacts either at low rpm or something solid.
I can't see those occuring here where the nose will be clear and visable at all times.

I'd be more than happy to operate a machine of this design.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

+1 for experienced chainsaw use. This design is MORE safe than holding a chainsaw by hand because kickback is close to impossible without the nose in contact with something and further the machine is secured with bolts...far more secure than just by hand. Its just a variant on the Alaskan Mill which is a tried, tested and commercially successful product. It has all the normal safety features PLUS the fact its secured. One should of course wear all the usual safety related clothing including ear defenders, full face mask and chaps or reinforced trousers of some type as you would normally in chainsaw work.

 

[bugbear]

The decimal place thing is just maths - imagine (if you wlll)
I want to make a quick brace for a brick wall, out of cut
branches from my log pile. I decide that the base and vertical
will be "about a metre", so I throw this into Sketchup.

I then decide I want a triangulated brace, so
I slap a diagonal piece onto it.

"Obviously" this piece will be 1.41421356237 metres long, won't it?

BugBear

 

[Rhossydd]

Maybe it's just that I have used an alaskan mill quite a bit in the past so have a bit more knowledge and confidence in them.

From what I can see there's important differences between the 'Alaskan mill' style rig that secures both ends of the saw and keeps it parallel and are generally well engineered out of metal, from this type of wooden lash up.
The ability to control a chainsaw working at almost full capacity maybe fine for those with experience, properly equipped, fully fit and strong, but a novice "elderly gent in pretty poor health" trying to start from scratch sounds an accident waiting to happen to me.

 

[paulm]

Maybe it's just that I have used an alaskan mill quite a bit in the past so have a bit more knowledge and confidence in them.

From what I can see there's important differences between the 'Alaskan mill' style rig that secures both ends of the saw and keeps it parallel and are generally well engineered out of metal, from this type of wooden lash up.

Mine doesn't secure both ends of the saw, only one, which is all that's needed with a short to medium length bar.

Also think it's far from being a "lash up", quite thoughtfully designed if you ask me

Cheers, Paul