A few workbench questions

[Matt_S]

I've read many workbench builds on here and have stolen bits from all of them! I do still have a few questions though.

1. How deep should I make it? My existing Clarke bench is only 500mm deep including tool trough, 350mm without. I've always felt this a bit narrow, but is there a "standard" size? It will be a flat MDF top no trough and at the moment I'm thinking 700mm.

2. I'm going to use pine for the legs, 4x2 laminated for legs. But which sort of pine? Do any of the DIY sheds sell anything good enough? I will be getting PAR, and want this bench to be good enough to keep for a long time so do I need to go to a wood yard? If so which type of pine should I use?

3. Final question, anyone with wonder dogs recommend a good spacing from the front edge for dog holes?

Thanks for the help.

 

[ondablade]

It all depends i guess. It's been discussed here before, but Chris Schwarz's book 'Workbenches' is often spoken of as the most methodically analytical figuring out of the functional features required in a bench. There are some other books around that are excellent for other reasons, but they often focus more on traditional features than analysis.

There's a view that you want to keep both side's legs flush with the edges of the top to make vertical and horizontal clamping surfaces (think a big elongated cube), and that wide benches tend to become a barrier to using the bench this way. They can also force a long lean in when using tools.

Some designs incorporate a removable centre to facilitate clamping.

I guess it in the end depends on what sort of work you see yourself doing. I'm about to start building one too, and being relatively inexperienced have thought myself fuzzy headed trying to figure out working situations it may be used for.

I'm quite sure that no sooner will it be half made than a whole raft of improvement possibilities will come to mind.

A search of the site would be worthwhile....

ian

 

[Boz62]

1. How deep should I make it?

I went for 620mm - this was defined by the materials I used. It really depends on workshop size and the size of the jobs you will use it for. I've found it really usable - plenty of workpiece support and not too far to reach over the rear to clamp things at the back.

2. If so which type of pine should I use?

I used generic "Joinery Quality" 2x4 PAR pine from a local builder's yard. Bit knotty, but not too expensive, adequate strength, straight enough to laminate OK. In the end it didn't need much cleaning up. Seems to be standing up to life well so far.

3. Final question, anyone with wonder dogs recommend a good spacing from the front edge for dog holes?

I went for 110mm in from the front. Seems to work for me.

My only other recommendation would be to seriously consider fitting a sliding deadman. It really has been well worth it, highly recommended Good luck with your build.

Boz

 

[flounder]

I have a pine/mdf combo bench and set the width so that I could get the two layers of mdf for the top out of one sheet. With the apron applied it comes to 640mm wide, which seems about right for me. The top also has a layer of 4x2's under the mdf for mass, all purchased for diy orange box and all been up to the job!

 

[Matt_S]

Oops seem to have posted the same thread twice!

Mods can you merge them?

 

[Benchwayze]

Matt,

I get by with 30" (Approx. 750 mm). The bench is against the wall.

Any wider and I would have my coccyx slamming into my planing machine, when I'm dovetailing at the vice. Hence my next bench (Should I ever get a round tuit!) will be 150mm less!

There's a lot to be said for Flounder's set-up too. Especially if you fix the top sheet of MDF in such a manner, it can be replaced from time to time.

John

 

[OPJ]

When I built mine last year, I gave myself a 500mm wide top plus about 170mm for the tool well. If I had the space, I would like to have made this at least 600mm, which would allow better support for small tables and the like, without the need to place a sheet of MDF on your bench.

If you're set on the idea of a tool well, I would consider placing it down the centre of your bench, so that you have two wider slabs either side. In fact, this may be better than the solution I mentioned in the above paragraph! :roll:

Earlier this year, I fill my tool well with a series of lidded boxes, which could be removed individually to allow for clamping, etc. They finish flush with the bench top. I was fed up with shavings and general crap building up inside (but, at least it stop tools rolling off the back of my bench...! :roll. There's more info on my blog, here.

 

[Benchwayze]

(but, at least it stop tools rolling off the back of my bench...! :roll. There's more info on my blog, here.

Olly,

I know the feeling... And that's the big advantage with London Pattern Handles ! :lol:

John

 

[head clansman]

hi

really it will depend on what sort of wood working your into , other thing like are you a tidy worker, do you like to have a lots of thing on the bench at the same time .

I use to have a tool tray on mine but found it makes you lazy by placing thing in it instead of back in there places , so i removed it , it's only real good use was it did give you extra working level/width to the bench , Other thing are like, what space do you have around you, has it got to go against a wall which if that is the case maybe go to about 30 " wide or even a little wider , if it like mine which can be worked on all round then you don't need to be quite as wide , but then again that your choice .

My bench is only 500mm the present top of 25mm MDF (CRAP) now without a tool tray , but my new one will be 600mm * :?: :?: m to be decided it will have a total of four vices two record face vices and two corner york vices so i can work all round the bench and cramp from any side/end direction, bench top thickness it wont be MDF need plenty of support underneath or it will (Sag) after a while) a good quality wooden top anywhere between 75mm - 100mm depends on what you can afford, the more cramping facilities you got the better for your requirements about 75mm - 150mm apart the more the better . enjoy making it and don't forget A WIP with plenty of pics . hc

 

[Mike H]

Over the last 2 years I have made an assembly bench and a workbench.

The assembly bench, 7 by 3 feet, has 4 by 4" Redwood legs, which I made sure was well seasoned and settled. Be careful the delivered PAR stuff will be a lozenge by the time it has settled in the workshop 2 months. Also choose knot free stuff, rift sawn for the legs. All morticed and tenoned, wedged. The cross members are a variety of sizes around 3 and 4 by 2". On the sides I have used deep ribs of one inch ply, well set back so that I can clamp things. The top is good quality Inch ply topped with a removable 10mm MDF liner, sealed. This has proved very sturdy and could have formed the basis of a workbench with a thicker top. It had to be to support the bench as I made it!

The workbench is Laminated Quarter Sawn Bubinga on Sapele and weighs 200Kgs and is 3.5 inches thick!. I have used a double row of 19mm holes at 123mm spacing and it has proved fine. In my case the spacing was dictated by the travel of the end vice I installed. All Veritas equipment fits it. If you have a tool well, which I like, then make sure the bench it at least 700mm deep overall if you have the space.

Please do not hesitate to ask more question throu' PM. I recommend that you look at Robert Ingham's book and look also at Richard Maguire's website. Richard was quite happy to discuss any aspect of benchmaking online.

Best of luck

Mike

8)