a better way?

[stoatyboy]

Hi - would welcome some advice.

I'm making some drawers with a contrasting edge similar to the lovely ones Chems made a while back (don't know how to post a link to his thread) but don't have a domino or the ability to cut half blind dovetails the way Chems does so I've gone at it a different way.

would welcome views (good and bad) on my trial approach....

started with a standard through dovetailed corner marked out what I wanted to remove

set the depth

ran along the rip fence for the deep cut (swapped to a rip blade first)

took out the cross cut on the cross cut sled (no picture) to leave my space for insert

prepped up and glued in my oak insert (too much glue)

cleaned it up to give this - looks very nice after a couple of coats of oil on the oak

so it seemed to work - but is there an easier faster more accurate way?

all advice welcome - cheers - Pete

 

[Doug B]

Take cover Pete, i feel an onslaught from the H&S police :lol: :lol:

Do you have a router table?


Doug.

 

[OPJ]

Yes, a router with a wide cutter should be quicker (and safer!! :roll. That way, you wouldn't lose any time re-setting the machine to make the final shoulder cut, as you have done on your saw. The router would do it all in on.

You could even do it with a hand-held router, using the side fence.

 

[miles_hot]

I'm really not following what you were trying to do here

The dovetails here are not contrasting - you've only got a patch stuck onto the side... Quite probably I'm being thick here but maybe you can explain it to me?

Miles

 

[TrimTheKing]

Looks good, but I would be worried about the fact it looks like you have glued the insert in perpendicular to the grain on the face of the drawer, so any movement in the drawer front will have potential to pop that insert off, or worst case split the drawer front.

And any movement in the insert will mean you end up with either a small lip sticking out the side trapping your drawer, or shrinking and leaving a gap.

Easily fixed though if you get the insert off and cut anothe with the right grain orientation.

 

[L Harding]

I'm really not following what you were trying to do here

The dovetails here are not contrasting - you've only got a patch stuck onto the side... Quite probably I'm being thick here but maybe you can explain it to me?

Miles

Me neither, ive looked for the other thread to see what it is your replicating but cant find it. Probably because i dont actually know what im looking for!

 

[wizer]

I'm with the other two thickies. What is it you're trying to achieve? I can't work it out.

 

[TrimTheKing]

I'm with the other two thickies. What is it you're trying to achieve? I can't work it out.

Try this. https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums...e-and-walnut-t39018-15.html?highlight=drawers

 

[wizer]

Ah ok I understand now. I don't think you're really achieving the look very well because the pins are not contrasting. If you want to do that then I suggest gluing up the front board and hand cutting them to get the look.

 

[Benchwayze]

Don't let anyone knock you.

If that's the method that you came up with to get your result than fair play to you. Ok, there are safer ways to remove the waste for your 'inlay' but next time you'll be the wiser.

This will certainly be a better job than you'd buy at Ikea or B&Q.

Regards
John

 

[TrimTheKing]

Don't let anyone knock you.

Regards
John

I wasn't knocking John. He's got contrasting grain directions glued together so that could cause movement problems.

As far as the design goes it's fine. Not exactly like Chems but nice touch.

 

[Chems]

I thinks its fine, but obvious question, you can obviously cut lovely through dovetails, why not just do it the same as I did and glue the contrast pieces on and then cut your half blind dovetails? I used dominos on my contrast pieces but a dowel or a biscuit would work just as well.

Regarding the grain direction, I don't think it will cause any problems on such a short length, mine haven't shown any movement in the last 3 months or so.

Anyhow, I think the way you've done it is different but still very good in its own style and I'm sure the whole piece would look good done that way.

 

[OPJ]

Some people like this feature on drawer fronts. You only to look at some of the furniture in places like John Lewis to see other examples (although, they're probably built around an MDF of chipboard core; thereby eliminating any movement issues).

 

[stoatyboy]

Hi Guys thanks for that I do appreciate it

the contrasting pins wasn't what I was after it was the strip on the fronts and it seemed a way to get it without the faff of half blind dovetails which I simply can't do well enough at the moment - I will keep practising!!

As for the 'Elf and safety I must confess it didn't 'feel' right and I've read that if it doesn't feel right it isn't - which was a big reason for the ask

I don't have a router table but i've got something similar - I think I'll have a try with that on another practice piece

shrinkage hadn't crossed my mind - I don't think the oak is going anywhere and the deepest drawer is 170mm deep - how much could it shrink? Maybe I could make them and put them in place for a few months and then put the insert in - It's only for my bedroom so no 'client' issues

I can't put the oak grain in the same direction as the pine as the oak I want to use simply is the wrong shape for that.

Thanks again for the input - as I've said before, what a wonderful forum.

Cheers - Pete

 

[matt]

Have you thought about making some drawer boxes and then separate fronts?

 

[Benchwayze]

Don't let anyone knock you.

Regards
John

I wasn't knocking John. He's got contrasting grain directions glued together so that could cause movement problems.

As far as the design goes it's fine. Not exactly like Chems but nice touch.

Yes Mark. You are right of course. Just a figure of speech on my part! With luck too much movement won't occur. It looks fine from the front, and obviously someone can cut good dovetails to begin with.

As for me, more than once I have band-sawn an 1/8" piece from a drawer front, dovetailed the drawer and then glued the front back in place! :wink: Depended on the level of work I was doing. I have to admit though, Chems did well. I don't like cutting sockets into side grain! :lol:

Regards
John

 

[Chems]

shrinkage hadn't crossed my mind - I don't think the oak is going anywhere and the deepest drawer is 170mm deep - how much could it shrink? Maybe I could make them and put them in place for a few months and then put the insert in - It's only for my bedroom so no 'client' issues

I really wouldn't worry about that. Its not going to be a problem, all that glue and the area your talking about is only perhaps 200mm theres not going to be much movement in that.

 

[stoatyboy]

Excellent - all ideas/advice taken on board and ready to proceed!

I'll post the outcome in the projects section - I'm not a fast worker though so will probably be around September time!

thanks again everyone

Pete