8x4 sheet cutting table

[HDC83]

Made this few years ago and it’s about time to cut bout 20mm off top edge as it’s a bit cut up as you’ll expect.
Any thoughts on how I could make a sacrificial edges as I will only be able to cut some off so many times.

 

[eribaMotters]

Why not cut some 80mm wide strips of 12mm ply and screw these to the face of your verticals leaving them 20mm proud. When these get damaged simply replace.
I took a simpler method to cutting 8x4 sheets. I sit three old 2.7m lengths of 75mm square onto my two saw horses. The board sits flat on these and I cut as needed. I can slide the square stuff around underneath so as not to cut into it. Sometimes I sit the square stuff on the garage floor instead if I cannot lift the 8x4 sheets up safely.

Colin

 

[toolsntat]

Not 20mm but.....
https://www.kitepackaging.co.uk/scp/corner-and-edge-protection/u-tulip-edge-protection/Cheers Andy

 

[HDC83]

Why not cut some 80mm wide strips of 12mm ply and screw these to the face of your verticals leaving them 20mm proud. When these get damaged simply replace.
I took a simpler method to cutting 8x4 sheets. I sit three old 2.7m lengths of 75mm square onto my two saw horses. The board sits flat on these and I cut as needed. I can slide the square stuff around underneath so as not to cut into it. Sometimes I sit the square stuff on the garage floor instead if I cannot lift the 8x4 sheets up safely.

Colin

Good idea Colin only problem with that is when it’s taken apart it all lays flat together in my van and make it even heavier as it’s pretty my 2 sheets of marine ply.

 

[HDC83]

Not 20mm but.....
https://www.kitepackaging.co.uk/scp/corner-and-edge-protection/u-tulip-edge-protection/Cheers Andy

Another good idea Andy if it was a fixed table that probably would do the job. Would fall off during dismantling and transport

 

[TheUnicorn]

maybe I'm misunderstanding the problem but why not use a sheet of insulation board as a sacrificial top?

 

[HDC83]

maybe I'm misunderstanding the problem but why not use a sheet of insulation board as a sacrificial top?

I have used that approach before it can get quite messy and definitely don’t smell that good either.
It lives in my van and is only set up as and when I need it outside so storing a sheet of insulation in my small workshop or van would impact on my available space

 

[Beanwood]

Inset a dozen or so MFT spacer/buttons on the top?

 

[Beanwood]

Sorry - Ignore my last - PLAINLY won't work as the frame is too thin.
Principle may still apply though - with buttons, but a smaller pin to hold them in, or epoxy glue?
Incidentally - that table looks like a brilliant piece of kit.

 

[HDC83]

Sorry - Ignore my last - PLAINLY won't work as the frame is too thin.
Principle may still apply though - with buttons, but a smaller pin to hold them in, or epoxy glue?
Incidentally - that table looks like a brilliant piece of kit.

Thanks
I think your on to something there I could take some 18mm dowel turn one end down to 10mm like a top hat to place into 10mm holes in the edge of the table

 

[TheTiddles]

Some cheap softwood (eg 2x1) with a 19mm wide trench down the length, gives you about 9mm to cut into and you just sit them on top of the ply beams with a slight friction fit
Aidan

 

[J-G]

Some cheap softwood (eg 2x1) with a 19mm wide trench down the length, gives you about 9mm to cut into and you just sit them on top of the ply beams with a slight friction fit
Aidan

Much better than drilling 10mm holes in the edge!

 

[TheTiddles]

Much better than drilling 10mm holes in the edge!

Well, one didn’t want to say that

 

[HDC83]

Some cheap softwood (eg 2x1) with a 19mm wide trench down the length, gives you about 9mm to cut into and you just sit them on top of the ply beams with a slight friction fit
Aidan

Although it’s a good idea it still makes the individual parts wider therefore wouldn’t fit in the gap in the van where I put the bench when flat packed. So with what design I go with needs to be no more than 18mm wide.
I was initially thinking a dovetail along the edge with corresponding groove on sacrificial strip

 

[TheUnicorn]

I have used that approach before it can get quite messy and definitely don’t smell that good either.
It lives in my van and is only set up as and when I need it outside so storing a sheet of insulation in my small workshop or van would impact on my available space

If you've tried it before you probably know the pros and cons better than I do, but I wouldn't have though it would take up too much space cut in half and hinged together with gaffer tape

 

[Beanwood]

How about having the strips across, as suggested by @TheTiddles, but the same width as existing frame? You can then recess attachment holes, so reducing the risk of the saw hitting them. You could use flange screws or similar to secure the sacrificial bars, Or is height also a constraint?

 

[HDC83]

How about having the strips across, as suggested by @TheTiddles, but the same width as existing frame? You can then recess attachment holes, so reducing the risk of the saw hitting them. You could use flange screws or similar to secure the sacrificial bars, Or is height also a constraint?

Yeah definitely another good idea but maybe with dowels or dominos instead of screws as I can be lax in adjusting the depth of saw cut, ruined a few to many blades over the years

 

[TheUnicorn]

seems like with the various limitations on size, weight etc you'd be better off just building a new table. certainly worth costing up that vs the cost of making a sacrificial extension to the top

 

[Beanwood]

Yeah definitely another good idea but maybe with dowels or dominos instead of screws as I can be lax in adjusting the depth of saw cut, ruined a few to many blades over the years

Lol - yes - I can imagine. Make enough cuts, and it only needs one to be done in a hurry to hit that screw head! Yep - I imagine domino's/dowels would work. Or how about using a 2" deep piece, with the scew recessed down 1 1/2", so much reducing the chance of hitting it?, whilst keeping it easy to replace?

 

[Inspector]

I have a set of these given to me that work as well as anything else I've seen. I can use them on the ground but prefer to clamp them to a couple folding sawhorses.

With all the work you put in yours I would rip off 1" from all the top edges and glue new strips back on. When they get ratty cut 1 1/2" off and repeat. Next time 2". Glued edges should hold without fasteners and by the time you chew up through the 2" level it's probably time for a new one.

Pete