254mm x ~3mm combination blade for tablesaw

[Mikey RR]

Evening all.

I've just set up my new 10" Bosch GRS10J contractors saw. I'm planning on using it for cutting joinery: cutting tenons, frames for f&p doors and grooving draw sides.

It's too small a saw to run a dado stack, but my online reading suggests the next best thing is a combination blade with a 3mm / 1/8" kerf and raker teeth every 3 to 5 teeth for cutting a square bottomed kerf, and just make two passes.

Can anyone suggest a decent blade for this application?

Cheers!
Mike

 

[Mikey RR]

Axminster got back to me. They suggested the blade I'd need for a flat bottomed kerf is called a grooving blade. CMT do them, but they've got huge teeth, probably ok for ripping a groove in a rail or stile but probably not great across the grain for a tenon.

 

[Against_The_Grain]

I would use a regular ATB blade, do all of the shoulder cuts first, and then manufacture a jig that holds the rails upright on the saw bench securely for the cheek cuts. This won't require any special tooling and will result in good quality tenons without the tedious monotony of "nibbling" away the waste 3mm at a time passing the tenon over the blade gradually which is inefficient and tiring.

This sort of work does normally require the removal of the guard and riving knife, so ensure that you come up with alternative guarding to help prevent any accidents, having seen photographs of the aftermath of an accident where an individual fell face first into a revolving saw blade, I can assure you that it wasn't pretty and it isn't an injury you can simply walk off, at all.

It wasn't an open-casket funeral.

 

[Mikey RR]

Cheers @Against_The_Grain .

I think what I'm going to do, is build myself a crosscut sled for cutting the depth of the shoulder, and then use my bandsaw for cutting the cheeks. It won't be as accurate but all of that is inside the joint and won't show.

It'll still be tidier than when I cut my tenons by hard.

I would use a regular ATB blade, do all of the shoulder cuts first, and then manufacture a jig that holds the rails upright on the saw bench securely for the cheek cuts. This won't require any special tooling and will result in good quality tenons without the tedious monotony of "nibbling" away the waste 3mm at a time passing the tenon over the blade gradually which is inefficient and tiring.

This sort of work does normally require the removal of the guard and riving knife, so ensure that you come up with alternative guarding to help prevent any accidents, having seen photographs of the aftermath of an accident where an individual fell face first into a revolving saw blade, I can assure you that it wasn't pretty and it isn't an injury you can simply walk off, at all.

It wasn't an open-casket funeral.