2 stroke garden machinery frustration

[Housey210]

long time since i worked on a two stroke but wondering about your port timings, coil / magneto?

 

[John Brown]

I think my improved cardboard inlet port gasket did the trick, as I've got it going pretty well now. Tomorrow I plan to investigate the very noisy angled gear bit twixt the down shaft and the spinny bit, as I think it could use some grease.
Then I just need to fix the leaky inner tubes and replace the bearings in one of the wheels.
Luckily my time is worth next to nothing these days...

 

[XTiffy]

I found a link to The Hornet wheeled strimmer on Youtube. My machine is a bit heavier with twin handles. Good to here you have it running. If this link works, they say sold out but it is a UK distributor might have a bit more info. Wheeled petrol 52 cc strimmer

 

[XTiffy]

The link has been cut! it was Wheeled petrol 52 cc strimmer

 

[XTiffy]

Sorry doesn't work gardenmachineryshop.co.uk/products/wheeled-petrol-52-cc-strimmer

 

[Qwercus]

It says "Hornet". It appears to be a generic 52cc two stroke, which is why I was easily able to find a new carb and fuel pipe with filter on Amazon.
It's definitely not homemade, in fact it seems the machine is still available.

https://www.gardenmachinerystore.com/Wheeled-strimmer-ukgm01
It doesn't look exactly like this, but similar.

The 52cc Chinese engine is, as you say, generic and is used on many badged brands. Chainsaws, 5-in-1 multitools and Brushcutters are favourite applications If you can find a user manual for any of those it will give basic information regarding petroil ratios etc.

 

[XTiffy]

I have a "Cow-horn" strimmer with the 52cc engine which is 40:1 mix but my wheeled 52cc strimmer is 25:1 mix, take your pick!

 

[Housey210]

I have a "Cow-horn" strimmer with the 52cc engine which is 40:1 mix but my wheeled 52cc strimmer is 25:1 mix, take your pick!

Take you pick, the age old question. New or used? Quite cheap really seeing the link! Oh well.

 

[Fergie 307]

The issue with E10 is the higher percentage of Ethanol which has an affinity to absorb moisture from the atmosphere just like brake fluid. In cars with fuel injection and tank vapour control systems this is / should be less of an issue as the system is not open to the atmosphere. With older cars and most horticultural machinery fitted with a carburretor the float chamber is vented to atmosphere and you can get issues.

As for that blurb

and includes molecules engineered to reduce friction in your engine and help moving parts work more efficiently​

I wonder if those molecules are hydrocarbons and do they realise that it is your engine oil that keeps everything from grinding to a halt and not the fuel, are they saying that with that fuel bore wash is not an issue anymore and if you have a leaky injector the excess fuel can replace the oil film and lubricate the cylinder, I bet not and it will just dilute the oil like it has done for decades.

Unleaded generally is nasty stuff from the point of view of longevity, it very quickly deteriorates if left in a machine. E 10 has the added problem that the higher ethanol content can damage plastic components in some fuel systems that haven't been designed for it. This is why it's not recommended for use in some older cars. Aspen is good, but pretty expensive. Best thing if using regular fuel is to use E5, and at the end of the season just run the machine until it stops because it has run out. This avoids your unleaded turning into a nasty watery mess by the time you next get it out.

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

I think my improved cardboard inlet port gasket did the trick, as I've got it going pretty well now. Tomorrow I plan to investigate the very noisy angled gear bit twixt the down shaft and the spinny bit, as I think it could use some grease.
Then I just need to fix the leaky inner tubes and replace the bearings in one of the wheels.
Luckily my time is worth next to nothing these days...

Go round engine and check crank case bolts as notorious for bolts that keep crank case together to come loose which then means poor compression and white smoke.
Which is often a symptom of an air leak.
You have changed carb for new one as often when left and starts only on choke either won't pull throttle of lags to touch which is gauze filter inside gets gummed up with cacky fuel.
Carb/brake cleaner sorts gauze filter out.
Most run 40/1 but if running stihl/husky etc Synthetic 50-1 is ok
Only run small engines on super unleaded and with a fuel stabiliser but Stihl and maybe husky have it in oil already but they all come from likes of Millers/Castrol and others as it's no magic potion! and if remember right Stihl is a Castrol oil.

 

[Superduner]

And as an aside, if checking the oil level on a Briggs & Stratton 4 stroke screw the dipstick in, and on a Honda (and maybe others) check without screwing it in.