1st lathe advice please

[h1udd]

Hello every one,

I am John, I live in Bristol and I like to bring back to life old espresso machines

err, there should be a pic here, but I dont have permission, lets try an attachment

as you can see there are a few turned wooden parts on them in the name of handles and boiler knobs, Buying these is working out expensive, so I thought I really should turn them myself. I haven't touched a lathe in 30 years and when I did it was very very basic stuff.

so looking to get hold of the cheapest (yet decent) lathe that I can, It doesn't need to be big, so I have currently narrowed it down to either the Axminster AWSL currently on sale at £169 OR a £200 used Jet 1014 that comes with an sk100 chuck and a few Crown Tools

One of the things I will need to do though is drill out a hole in the handles in order to tap them to M12/M10 ... these lathes the slowest they go is 750rpm and 500rpm respectively, Is that slow enough to drill ?

So other than a 2MT drill chuck for the tail stock is there anything else lathe related I would need ? . do I need a chuck or would using the drive and rotating tail centres be enough. And can anyone see an issue with either of the lathes mentioned above. I dont forsee me making massive bowls or table legs, it would a maximum finished size of 70mm diameter and 140mm length. There is a possibility of some hollowing out of a spindle so I guess a chuck would be needed for that.

Tools like chisels and sharpeners come out of a different account so thats covered

thanks John

 

[Spindle]

Hi

You can put the Jacobs chuck into the headstock and advance the blank into it using the tailstock - once you have a hole drilled to the correct dimensions all of the other tuning operations can be conducted between centres so no need for a chuck.

Having said that, if you get the opportunity to get one as part of a package I'd go for it as a chuck adds a lot of ease, (as in you will never NEED one as all operations can be performed using other methods, a chuck just makes life easier).

Regards Mick

 

[marcros]

i would go with the 1014. 750rpm is fine for drilling- it is much like turning a pen.

A chuck would be useful to you so that you can thread on the lathe and ensure that it is parallel.

The espresso machine looks very cool- what is it exactly?

 

[h1udd]

wow, thanks for the quick replies, that puts my mind at rest. I feared I would come away needing a variable speed lathe and some massive jaws of doom. I have read and watched so much about turning in the last week, I am starting to loose the plot.

The Machine is an elektra Microcasa a leva, they have been making them since the 60's and still make them today, occasionally upgrading the components as to satisfy EU safety requirements. the one shown is a 1995 model that is controlled by a pressure stat and thermal switch for safety ... before that you a twin element that you have to switch yourself to keep it at temperature and just a OPV valve to stop it exploding

 

[RogerP]

i....
The espresso machine looks very cool- what is it exactly?

... for making frothy coffee

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You probably wouldn't usually tap the wood - you'd be more likely to use a threaded insert of some description stuck in, I'd have thought - which of course would be easier.

 

[Spindle]

You probably wouldn't usually tap the wood - you'd be more likely to use a threaded insert of some description stuck in, I'd have thought - which of course would be easier.

Or just bore the handle and wind it onto the thread.

Regards Mick

 

[h1udd]

Ok, 1 more question.

Looks like my choice of lathe has come down to the Axminster 1218 or 1218vs

The vs is £50 more ... But not in stock, is it worth waiting a few weeks for the vs ? Is there a real benefit. The guys at Axminster think I should spend more money, even though it's not in stock

 

[NickWelford]

Presumably the vs is variable speed. It is well worth having. Consider - you have turned an item, fairly fast speed. Need to sand it. Lower speed. Do you really want to have to faff about each. Time? Also good for out of balance items. You won't regret it. Would be worth your while trying out the two types to realise the difference. I've never met anyone who made the upgrade and didn't like it.

 

[woodpig]

Variable speed is well worth having so I'd order the VS version and bite your tongue till it arrives!

 

[h1udd]

Thank .. Appreciate that ... Looks like patience it is

 

[SVB]

Hi john,

I notice you're in 'Bristol - this is a related post from someone else, have a look at my post re local club and tuition workshops. I believe it is only weekdays but may be of interest to you.

post1006766.html?hilit=Portishead#p1006766

Simon

 

[woodpig]

I should have said but my first Lathe was variable speed (cone drive) but I guess I didn't appreciate it enough as I've recently swapped it for a smaller lathe and very nearly made the mistake of getting a non VS replacement. In the end I really liked the spec of (the well over budget) Axminster AT1416VS and the variable speed drive has been indispensable.

Plenty of folks have turned out stunning work on standard lathes but VS makes the process of wood turning much more pleasurable if you can afford it.

 

[h1udd]

Thanks Simon, that's a really useful thread, some great links as well

 

[Phil Pascoe]

As said - hold out for the variable. Especially as a novice, you'll feel so much more comfortable being able to start slowly and wind it up - also people with fixed speeds don't realise how convenient it is to be able to select speeds between them and alter them slightly as your work progresses. Once you have a variable speed lathe, you'd never go back to fixed.

 

[h1udd]

Well thanks for all the advice guys and gals ..... I finally got an Axminster 1218vs

I love it, turning stuff on a lathe is easier than I thought ..... but only easier in the way that anyone can draw by picking up a pencil .... actually creating a piece that looks awesome, like I see on this forum I think will take some time.

That said, what I have made so far (2 handles and 2 bud vases) I have been really impressed with.

I have a lot of practicing and reading to do now though, especially with parting off, that normally ends with me bouncing bud vases off my forehead .. and finishing ... so far just used linseed oil and ca glue ... sure I can do better than that though

 

[duncanh]

I've made quite a few handles for coffee machines (portafilter handles and various levers and knobs).
Instead of threading the wood you should use a drop in anchor similar to http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p12620 - just drill a hole (either on the lathe or with a drill press) and glue the anchor in place.

If the handle screws into a socket drill a hole and glue in threaded rod. I tended to use stainless steel bolts with the head cut off (so that the steel didn't react with whatever wood I was using, especially as it would be used close to water and steam).

I used several methods for turning as the handles varied in size/style, but I think one that worked well was to drill the hole, glue the anchor, put a matching piece of threaded rod into the Jacob's chuck in the headstock, bring up the tailstock and turn most of the shape. Once it's pretty much done remove the tailstock and carefully finish the end.

 

[h1udd]

Wow, thanks for the tips. I didn't even know anchors existed, I'll give that a go