sniks7
Established Member
I thought I'd sling a few shots up of my extremely long-term shelves. They just about qualify as amateur-woodworking-cum-firewood and I've included a close-up so people can see how not to do things.
They were made out of low grade ash (lots of knots, olive bits) and I got them planed before I picked the boards up. I've spent 18 months learning about the subject of tear out.
My workshop is freely available for all to use: open a window and stick your nose out and somewhere out there is me working. I did however buy a black and decker workbench for 25 quid for the sanding and finishing. A well chosen close-up would show lots of little rain spots where i didn't get in in time. pipper!
My tools were a japanese saw from Axminster, two blunt chisels and a belt sander and a palm sander. I read somewhere that the better the finish, the more it shows up the original mistakes: very true - there are sanding divots all over the place that only showed up on the 6th coat of shellac. Sigh.
The timber moved continually over the year and a half of the project and the eventual construction was biscuit jointed and screwed to try and pull out some of the warp. I spent ages dreaming about a low angle bevel wiggle tiddley pom plane. I should have bought it and tried to use a shooting wibble. And I should have taken the advice from someone on this forum and done rebates for the shelves. More sigh.
However, the finish is very smooth: I used 400 grit and wire wool. Of course you can't see that under a load of books.
As an aside, I'm quite keen on using knotty low-grade english hard woods, the sort of stuff most people reject. On a pretentious level I find it give more of a natural feeling of the tree and on a practical level it seems a shame to waste useable wood. The irony is that the poorer the quality, the higher the skill needed to deal with it. Another lesson!
Damn! After all that I can't work out how to post images! You'll just have to trust me: the glue lines are appalling![/url]
They were made out of low grade ash (lots of knots, olive bits) and I got them planed before I picked the boards up. I've spent 18 months learning about the subject of tear out.
My workshop is freely available for all to use: open a window and stick your nose out and somewhere out there is me working. I did however buy a black and decker workbench for 25 quid for the sanding and finishing. A well chosen close-up would show lots of little rain spots where i didn't get in in time. pipper!
My tools were a japanese saw from Axminster, two blunt chisels and a belt sander and a palm sander. I read somewhere that the better the finish, the more it shows up the original mistakes: very true - there are sanding divots all over the place that only showed up on the 6th coat of shellac. Sigh.
The timber moved continually over the year and a half of the project and the eventual construction was biscuit jointed and screwed to try and pull out some of the warp. I spent ages dreaming about a low angle bevel wiggle tiddley pom plane. I should have bought it and tried to use a shooting wibble. And I should have taken the advice from someone on this forum and done rebates for the shelves. More sigh.
However, the finish is very smooth: I used 400 grit and wire wool. Of course you can't see that under a load of books.
As an aside, I'm quite keen on using knotty low-grade english hard woods, the sort of stuff most people reject. On a pretentious level I find it give more of a natural feeling of the tree and on a practical level it seems a shame to waste useable wood. The irony is that the poorer the quality, the higher the skill needed to deal with it. Another lesson!
Damn! After all that I can't work out how to post images! You'll just have to trust me: the glue lines are appalling![/url]