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The task you carry out once in order to ensure that a repetitive task can be carried out efficiently in future is never time wasted. You didn't get anything else done on that one day but every day from now on you will produce more because of it. If you can say that, it's a good job well done...

Pleased to make your acquaintance Anthony. :) I worked for a company in the '80s specialising in garden furniture (gazebos, Pergolas, trellis, benches, planters etc) using Iroko which they used to paint as well as natural finish. We used to build for the Chelsea flower show each year. It was...

Looking at that unbelievable setup makes me think I'd rather just attach the dust bag that came with the belt sander. Emptying the bag periodically has to be preferable to tripping over Heath Robinson's worst nightmare every 5 minutes. Get yourself a proper workshop hoover and a qualified...

Iroko is really nasty, gives off a choking dust when machining or sanding and leaves me wheezing for a week after one day in the workshop with it. Far as I'm concerned it belongs in the garden as a bench or planter or some other such like outside construction where left unfinished it weathers...

Based on a 90mm square newel and a 225 x 27mm string. 12mm tapered end straight-grained oak dowel, 3mm offset. Keep the centre of the bore hole on the newel 25mm from the shoulder of the string. Two dowels per string and one for a handrail. I wouldn't use screws. Beech dowel is okay for softwood

The correct machine for removing minor twists and bows from sawn timber is a surface planer. Or if it's really bad, a straight line edging saw on a power feed followed by surface planing. The process of creating adjacent surfaces at 90 degrees to each other is known in the trade as face edge...

Heartily dislike combination machines as they tend to be a compromise of too many functions. A bit 'jack of all trades' for me unless they've improved a lot since I was last unlucky enough to have to use one. Never seen a RH sliding table myself either. I should find that most uncomfortable...

Totally agree. I cringe whenever I see someone cutting the rebates post assembly, makes my cabinet makers soul bleed.

Anything which increases the glueing surface area strengthens the joint, it's just a matter of degree. I still scarify board joints as well especially on dense hardwoods.

So would I. This is by far the best way to cut this joint. Given that the OP has now stated that this is all to be done on site, a decent dimension saw with sliding table is not really feasible anyway. I would use a radial arm crosscut saw with a dado cutter and build level benches 4m long...

Assuming this is a 'front frame' or 'in frame' type kitchen, First of all, I'm assuming you don't intend to make the carcase from pine although there's no reason, apart from cost, why you shouldn't. Lamo board isn't ridiculously expensive if you can find a local workshop happy to sell you the...