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Most of the Apple wood I have used in the past has been pretty well seasoned, as such it is fine grained and very hard, takes fine detail well but can have erratic grain which means you need sharp tools and take fine cuts across such areas to avoid tear out or dig in, it's a really nice timber...

Holly is excellent turning timber, but also tricky to season as it is prone to split internally in large sections, also it tends to keep moving a lot too so is often unsuitable for boxes with lids (they fit for a short while then either shrink or expand and don't fit, at least that's been my...

It's Ash. which turns pink when turned wet, but the pink doesn't persist, yes Ash can have deep fissured bark like that, Olive Ash is called thus because it resembles Olive wood and is a warm brown colour with often swirls and wild patterns in the grain (but it can be straight too) Olive Ash...

reply was redundant so I deleted it.

I made half a chess set from Hawthorn, nice stuff to work and pretty stable in decent sizes.

Spare chuck with O'Donnel jaws.

A useful practice is to save your sanding dust from different timbers, I keep mine in plastic bank coin envelopes, it will nearly always look darker than the surrounding timber, so sometimes it can be an idea to use a contrasting colour to make a feature out of the crack. I have used turquoise...

Ive used wire in the past, albeit not for something as small as a chess peice (I have though turned some quite large chess sets!) but the wire I used was copper, I cut a thin groove and glued the wire in with epoxy, having fitted and sized it before hand, I did this prior to sanding as I used...

Dunno about red leaves, this is absolutely an Ash log, even the spalting, especially the white rot areas look just like Ash, as does the bark, no Beech or Maple has fissures like that, Beech is smooth nad grey even big trunks, maple is also smooth but often with horizontal marks, Oak is fissured...

Nice work Linus, very neat.

I made a couple of videos showing log conversion for turning bowls etc, here are the links should they prove useful at all.

Ah thanks Ian, I wasn't certain, remarkable it hasn't got here sooner then, I guess the prevailing westerly source of our weather would explain that to some extent.

I mostly use a Sorby Patriot chuck with 50mm jaws, bigger ones if the bowl is large, as such I leave a tenon on the base of the bowl once it is roughed out, this does deform during drying of course, but it is sufficient to remount securely. Once mounted I cut a hollow for the jaws on the inside...

I would also rough them out, whether you elect to turn natural edge or ordinary, turn them to about 1 inch thickness, thi9s way they will warp, but still be viable and much less likely to split.

Did everyone suddenly order blades? The website for Tuffsaws is temporarily closed due to a high demand, how odd!

https://www.etsy.com/uk/search?q=Crushed%20sodalite

having used Oil as Derek says, will prevent or cause issues with sealers (sanding sealer should always be the first thing you apply when finishing) However, there is an alternative solution to Derek's suggestion, and that is to use a hard wax oil, this will give a hard and glossy finish...

Looks more like Skimming to me which is Gypsum based, is it hard and somewhat brittle? If so it is most likely standard Gypsum skimming, if it's not brittle and white and sort of tough, then it's more likely Lime. Lime will be white, but you can get white skimming too so colour isn't a reliable...

Thanks, yes, the radial lines bit anyway!

Still doing some.