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I don't think the "ruler trick" is intended to produce a back bevel per se. It is just a quicker way of polishing enough of the back (or face, depending on who you are talking to) of the blade to produce a good edge.

Cheers XY, a picture paints a thousand words, that looks easier than I was anticipating. The bevel on my blade is in pretty poor shape and wil need a lot of work but I'll give it a go tomorrow if I get a pass from the gaffer for a little time in the workshop.

I have just bought a wooden spokeshave via Ebay. It has a tanged blade and I am not sure how best to sharpen it. I have a set of water stones (The Ice Bear set from Axminster) and also an old double sided carborundum stone. I'm thinking that a sideways action along the edge of the stone might be...

This is similar to the one that came with my kit. It is hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks finer than the one you linked to. The Axminster website says it is equivalent to 8000 grit...so that it won't contaminate your finer stones with coarse grit particles.

A proper nagura stone is much harder than the waterstones and shouldn't be shedding any particles of grit. Mine has a fine, very dense structure, similar to the fine stone...you can see it in the picture on the Axi site that I linked to in my last post...what nagura are you using?

I have the Ice Bear water stone set from Axminster. The coarse stone is 800 grit and the fine one is 6000 grit. The Nagura is only used to work up a slurry on the fine stone...it won't cut otherwise. After using the two stones I strop on a piece of MDF lightly smeared with Autosol chrome polish...

This is the type of regulator that I have on my cheapo compressor. The price on Ebay seems a bit steep, considering that my compressor only cost about £70 all in but it gives you an idea what the regulator might look like.

You don't say what kind/size of compressor you have...that info might help. Compressors usually have a two dial pressure regulator. One dial will show tank pressure and the other will show output pressure. The tank will probably be around 110-120 psi. There should be a control knob on the...

There is a video on Mitre lock bit set-up on Stu's Shed (you can access it via the Aussie Woodforums) and another tutorial on the Woodshop Demos site. I bought one of the Axminster "Perform" mitrelock bits with a box maling project in mind but the TUIT hasn't arrived yet, so I haven't had a...

It's from the H. Rider Haggard novel She (Who Must Be Obeyed)...the wife, the missus, love of my life etc

If you are using a router hand-held, the normal feed direction (and the safest) is left to right. Right to left is called climb cutting, because the cutter tries to climb out of the cut, which is sometimes useful and necessary, but can be harder for a beginner to control. For a router table...

The guys have already pretty well answered this one but I'll add my 2 p worth anyway. I used the Axminster 75 mm locking castors on my router table (plan from "Woodworking with the router" by Hylton and Matlack). They are rock solid in use with the front set locked. I liked them so much that I...

I like the way you think, young man...all we need now is summer (feels like a log way off at the moment though).

Yes Tony, the motor runs at 1450 rpm (I think) and it's not so little. I have two of these induction motors that came off defunct/obsolete Edwards vacuum pumps and they are rated for continuous running. I plan a bobbin sander powered by one motor and a faceplate sander with the other.

US powertools are made to run in 110V @ 60 HZ, as opposed to 230 V/50 Hz in UK. As understand it, most US powertools will run in a 110 V site transformer but will develop less power because of the frequency difference.

These Carroll drum sanders work well enough in a drill press, for accasional use. I also have one of these from Axminster. I have a couple of old motors (1/3 hp) with 5/8" arbour that takes the Axminster drum sander. I am planning on making a mounting plate and "box" to allow me to mount it in...

I built all my own kitchen cabinets out of 18 mm MFC. It is very tough on tools and very difficult to get a clean edge without chipout. I had to cut everything a little oversize and dress the edges with a router. Birch ply is easier on the edge tools (though still pretty tough because of all the...

I inherited an old hand brace from my dad. I thought these things were rendered completely obsolete by battery drill/drivers but after reading that one could be used as a screwdriver, I gave it a go. The brace is the original two jaw chuck design, which grips a hex shank bit holder very well...

I use my cheapo B&Q drill press for hinge holes. I made a setting jig with holes of the right depth and distance from the edge of the door. I used this to set a temporary fence on the drill press tabel (I use a guide clamp). All you need then is a wee template to locate the centre of the hole, a...

You might find a guide clamp, as in this one from Axminster useful. You can either clamp it to your board parallel to the edge you want to joint and run the router base along the edge, or you can clamp it right on the line and use a bearing-guided trimmer.