Search results

If you use water stones the pressure is usually applied on the pull stroke. These stones are quite soft and there is a serious risk of gouging a lump out of the stone if you apply too much pressure with the cutting edge going away from you. Your description of how you hold the guide sounds...

You wouldn't care to post some photos, would you Steve?

Wiha call them spanner bits but they appear to be only 25 mm long. As suggested, it might be easier to make one.

I made my table top out of two thicknesses of 18 mm birch ply (you could use MDF) and laminated it myself. You need to do both sides of the top (top and underside) to balance it and prevent it warping. The laminate is cut oversize and attached with contact adhesive (Evo Stick) and trimmed with...

I built the router table in the Hylton & Matlack book and it works very well for me. For the fence I went with the design on the Wealden website by Ron Fox. I built it out of 18 mm MDF and unfortunately I didn't laminate the two moveable fence faces and they warped a bit. I made replacement...

Were there spots on the leaves? It could well be a leaf miner moth inferstaion. No direct damage to the timber, as I understand it, but widespread leaf damage must be bad for the tree in the long term.

That is the biggest honing jig I have ever seen :lol:

The link worked just fine for me. Not sure about the workbench in the living room though :shock:

I was tempted by this offer as the saw has had good reviews by Tony and others. Unfortunately I have absolutely nowhere to put it until I have a major re-organisation of my workshop.

1/4" chisel in a bench mortiser? Make dowels (need a dowel plate) and leave top section square. Cheat and surface glue some little square buttons to the door stiles :lol:

Are draw bored or draw pegged M&Ts readily knocked down for moving though?

How about sliding dovetails to connect the planks to the legs. If you don't use glue it could be dis-assembled if you need to move it. Not sure if the sliding DT would be strong enough on its own for a bed though.

I've had a look at the seller's Ebay shop and he seems to be selling waterstones for a remarkably low price eg. £3.50 here. Anyone know if they are any good, or is it a case of "you get what you pay for".

Canadian Lumber Standard, I think. Some of the lengths of B&Q CLS I've bought in the past would be suitable for Alf's opportunist propeller maker.

I'm not arguing about the long term economics of it...it makes good sense. It's just that I can probably do the job in hand with 3 cheap cutters and then maybe not need that cutter again for a year (the difference between the pro and the DIYer, I suppose). In the longer term I may well look at...

Hi Sean, it's good to see how you are getting on. Your doors look great. As a fellow DIY kitchen builder I can certainly sympathise with how frustratingly slowly things seem to progress at times. Keep up the good work and keep posting progress shots.

I have always thought of Silverline in the same category as Nu Tool (mostly c**p) so it is good to hear a positive recommendation. Maybe this should go in the tool prejudices thread.

Paul, I have mostly been cutting housings/dados in cabinet sides to fit full thickness backs. The batch of MFC I have is 18.6 mm thick so I have been using 19 mm dia. bits. Because the housings are only a few mm deep, and need to be a consistent depth, it is always the same part of the cutting...

Glad to hear that it worked out ok. Well done.

My recent experience of cutting MFC, here, tells me that the damn stuff eats TCT saw blades and router cutters at an alarming rate. After two or three panels for a kitchen cabinet I start to see signs of chipping, even with a good quality triple chip blade. I might try Lee's tip of using masking...