Search results

Cheers Simon, that makes perfect sense. I hadn't thought of putting in a narrower strip to get the profile, I'll give it a go.

This is probably a dumb question but I can't see an easy way to do this. I have fitted some bedroom furniture and I have wall cupboards either side of a chimney breast. I have a gap of around 50 mm between the chimney breast and the cupboard side. The chimney breast is only about 200 mm deep and...

I asked the same question a while back and Noel posted this solution. I built one and it works brilliantly. I think it is pretty much what Dudester was recommending but the picture Noel posted makes it a bit clearer, all you need to do is to adjust the fearher board between cuts.I guess whether...

If the blade is square to the table and parallel to the fence are you saying that the fence face is not square to the table?

Momo, I don't think it is barmy as long as you build in suitable guards etc. There was a recent thread by a guy who built his own bandsaw from the wreckage of an old one that the workshop roof had fallen in on. The Triton workcentre started from the idea of strapping a hand held saw to a table...

It is looking good Adrian, (I cut and pasted the picture locations). I hope the rains stay away for you.

That sounds like a spindle moulder, which may well be more versatile and powerful than a router table but you have already made the investment in router bits and Router lift/Incra fence. The good thing about a router in a table is that you can take it out and use it hand held if the need arises.

Hi Chop n Join, welcome to the forum. Usual advice around here is that the big Triton is best for the router table and it doesn't need the Rout r lift as it has a built in rack and pinion mechanism for raising and lowering the bit and above the table bit changing. Other favourites are the Dewalt...

I like both Ray Mears and Bear Grylls (who calls their son Bear anyway?) and find their TV shows enjoyable. That's just it though, isn't it, they are TV shows that have to be made to a timetable and budget. Even so, the sight of the Bear squeezing the last drops of water from a ball of elephant...

Are you selling as a job lot or would you consider selling items separately? I already have a Workcentre and I am thinking about the bevel ripping guide.

I don't know if you guys know about the Aussie Woodwork Forumswhere there is a Triton owners/users forum. Well worth a browse and of course our resident Triton expert Argee always seems only too willing to help out. If you search the Aussie forum there are a number of really good posts on...

That looks really great Pekka, quite different to the usual tiles and the boat deck style is a very nice touch. What did you use for the caulking between the deck strips?

I had a play around with my old S&J tenon saw tonight and got the handle off ok. It turned out that it did have split nuts after all, so it came off easily. All I need now is a good pattern for the new handle.

Neily, the saw set is for setting the teeth after sharpening with a saw file. You also need some sort of saw vice to hold the saw blade while you work on it. Have a look on the handtools forum for some of Bugbear's posts on saw sharpening.

I have a Triton Workcentre that can operate as an overhead router with the addition of a cheap mounting plate. No idea how good it would be though.

The ones in the link posted by Pete (OP luthier49) looked quite substantial, certainly bigger than you could get with a regular coving bit. Maybe it's just me not being able to judge the scale from the picture. I ask because I'm interested in the techniques used rather than by a need to produce...

I don't have the Rexon kit but a compressor/nailer combo is always useful. You didn't say whether portability is essential for you, if not a bigger compressor would be much more versatile. A 50 litre one will supply the air for spraying finishes or running other high demand air tools like...

Hi Ron, welcome to the forum. Sorry I don't know anything about radial arm saws, I assume you have checked fuses etc. Can you tell if power is still getting to the motor? There are a few forum regulars who know a fair bit about motors, I'm sure they will be along soon with some advice.

I found the thread that Paul linked to very interesting, especially the part where the OP had an overhead router set-up for making cove mouldings. Anyone else got eny experience of doing this with a router/router table? I really don't fancy the tablesaw method.

Hi Chems and DavidJ, welcome to the forum. Chems, that is an interesting take on a router table, I've never seen a router mounted like that before...at least you don't lose any depth of cut which you do with most table set-ups.