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I like it. :) Did you have any trouble with the elm moving at all?

Mattty, I'm interested to hear why you prefer to tilt the saw blade... Obviously, when your stock reaches a certain length, that's all you can do to cut the mitre. But do you generally find this is more accurate than swinging the saw around to 45°? Let's say the timber is 70mm wide (within the...

Rob, just to confirm, I seem to remember the corner joints on your casket were secret mitred dovetails? Not just your average mitres! :D That may be where the confusion lies here... In which case, I'd agree that you couldn't cut much of those joints on a SCMS or table saw, for that matter.

Yep, I'd also try honing at a steeper angle - no need to regrind the primary bevel!! :shock: :wink: A couple of years ago, I received a Veritas bevel-up smoother and it was tearing up everything - even pine! It wasn't until last year when someone on here advised me to try honing at 50° that I...

That looks fantastic - very well done indeed! :) I do agree with the others' reservations over the thinness of the legs but, equally, there would be people out there who love it. I think I know what you mean about the chamfers on the top... You almost want to 'undercut' the edges at a wide...

Sycamore and maple are also good choices for small box work. Ash is affordable but, since it is as hard as oak, it can be surprisingly difficult to work (very sharp tools required, etc.). You may find sycamore and others to be more "welcoming"! :)

Good progress, Mark. :) I've also noticed that at least one of the tables has a tendency to move every few months and I'm also getting convex edges at the minute! :x Most machines I've worked with have suffered from this, including one of the more expensive Scheppach models and a huge Italian...

Well, erm, I use Firefox and successfully placed an order with Rutlands yesterday morning... ? :duno: Have you updated to the very latest version? I haven't, yet. Maybe that's it?

Yep, Titebond II is also rated as 'food-safe' and, in the right conditions, you only need to clamp it up for half an hour. :)

Looks good and it will be interesting to see how you get on. Didn't take you long to cover the top in tools either, did it! :wink: Whether or not you finish the frame is entirely up to you... I don't think it 'needs' it. For what it's worth, wax would be more difficult to apply than a varnish...

If you do go with the inlay idea (I assume it's to disguise or hide the gap you mentioned earlier?) then I'd be concerned that you may end up gluing the base in place. Meaning that, if it's solid wood, it won't be able to expand and contract. :? Also, as good as the glue may be, those mitre...

Nice to hear of a job where the Domino isn't fit for purpose!! :D Guess you should've hung on to your biscuit jointer...! :wink: Seriously, I like the solution you came up with. I think Steve Maskery has done something similar with compound mitres; using one of those fast-setting mitre...

Just had an idea, although this might be very similar to what you're trying to describe... Ripping a load of scrap timber (got any cheap pine?) so it's the same width as all the sides but bevelled on one face - you're basically surrounding the frame with another frame that'll sit at 90° on the...

Glad you got the angles sorted and that you're realising the potential of Bench Cookies! :wink: They are great for routing small pieces but, I agree also; they don't prevent short or narrow lengths from moving about while you're sanding (then again, neither to rubber mats, to a certain extent)...

That looks great, Rob. I particularly like the adjustable mouth. :) I wonder how many people will be entering the competition in British Woodworking? I'm certainly up for it! :D

Well, I've just had another look at the drill and, after filming it running at both speeds (with and without the speed control connected), I'm now at the conclusion that its performance is equal to the DeWalt model. I've just a few simple tests in some 2in beech and both drills were on a par...

Yes, you only need one bolt in the end of each rail. Although, adding even a short stub-tenon (and mortise) makes location much easier and would increase the strength of the joint (the bolt will hold it together). If your SCMS allows you to do trenching cuts, you could cut the shoulders and...

I like the look of this so far. Do you have any photos or sketches of the design? Interesting way of doing the legs. I also much prefer this method to gluing a length of veneer on two faces. :? Why did you decide not to add any biscuits or splines? That surely wouldn't have helped with the...

This link has come up on the forum a couple of times in the past.

Thanks, Roy. Tried that just now and it does work... Only, I'm not sure whether it is any faster. In the morning, I'll charge the batteries up again and will have to video the drill running in both setups, I think. Just to be sure. Another thing I've realised (comparing this to the DeWalt) is...