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Dovetails are looking very good. I also like the look of the left-hand box, with the smaller pins. Considering all the work done to hand-prep the timber initially and all those dovetails, I don't think eight-hours is too bad, really. :) Look forward to seeing more progress.

Good work. Looks like your new workshop is working well for you. :wink: I like the mortising jig. Water-based lacquer is great stuff indeed, even though it takes a bit longer to dry than the others.

Earlier in the week, I resawed some 210mm deep oak using one of Ian's Supertuff Fastcut blades and the performance was excellent. Blade didn't stall or struggle although, I still took it steady to get the best possible finish - speaking of which, it's good enough to glue straight on to an MDF...

Ratchet straps work well for pulling up the mitres on boxes like this. You can add a short length of angle iron on each corner to prevent damage (line the inside faces with thick paper or card). Don't bother with the cheap ratchet clamps, though - they're ***** and usually break as they tighten...

Wasn't there a forum member, some time last year, who was looking to get a set of these made by a local blacksmith...? Can't remember the outcome of it.

Thanks for the tip on Davenport Saws. I've just e-mailed them to see what they would charge to regrind a set of planer knives (normally, this would be a job for Ian John - but, last time I asked him about this, he wasn't setup for sharpening knives himself :().

What about European :D - how would you distinguish that from English? Ironballs didn't mention anything about red oak... :wink: :)

My Freud router has a similar problem; they only supply one nut for two collets. When I can get the collet out by hand, I sit rest the nut sitting over one of the dog holes in my bench and, using a large bolt, punch the collet out with the tap of a hammer. Then, I only have to make sure I know...

I think the danger there is that it could 'taint' the bread? That's certainly the case with Danish oil. Tung oil is safe to use on chopping boards and the like but, it would darken the beech even more than the food safe oil.

Is your real name Jack Bauer?!? :D Looking good though. Th fuming appears to have worked quite well. Is that dark enough for what you want or are you going to try and darken it some more? I also see your doing your mortises the true Arts & Crafts way, with the use of spacers... Is any easier...

If it's all square-edged then, you probably haven't got a hope in hell!! :D Otherwise, a lot of English and European boards are sold with at least one waney-edge. You're less likely to find that on North American timber, as they like to pack as much as they can in to the containers. On my...

Looks like you have a lot of decent kit in there, considering your space. Only thing I can't see is your workbench, unless I'm missing it? Is the crown guard on your table saw home made? Do you have any other photos of it?

John, even if you bought this second-hand (?), I think it's worth e-mailing Mick Hudson ([email protected]) before giving up on it. I don't own any Clifton planes myself but, both Alan and him have been more than happy to assist when I've had difficult fitting a Clifton iron to a Stanley...

PaulR did something very similar a couple of years ago. I think he used oak? Though, it might have been iroko... The best oil I've come across for exterior work is the Osmo UV Oil. Well, I haven't yet used it myself but, Smith & Roger seem very impressed with it (see their blog, here). I've...

Hopefully, in time, you'll have the confidence to split your pencil lines in half with the saw, meaning you won't need to use a chisel to pare them. :wink: Otherwise, not bad at all for your first attempt in three-years. Personally, I would have the central pin a bit smaller - perhaps only 3mm...

Very tidy. An excellent storage solution for the space. :)

Steve, thanks also for your comments. Very much appreciated from the both of you. :) Taking it all in to account, I think I'll try to concentrate the 'two-tone' theme on the top, rather than everywhere else... It sort of works on the chair but, for a smaller side table, I think it would be too...

Thickness looks fine so, I don't think it's likely to snap under load. :) You could trim a few millimetres off the width (both sides) so that if the accidentally over cut the mortise or the timber shrinks slightly, the mortise cannot be seen. :wink: Length-wise, I think 20mm would be fine, or...

Danish oil will also leave a slick finish (DAMHIKT! :oops:)... :wink:

Thanks, Dave. I agree about angling the rails to match the legs, even though that'll mean cutting more angled tenons!! :roll: :wink: Do you think the walnut top will work, as in the last two images?